1G Depower steering rack

[er82]

So I began the process of depowering the power steering rack. I took out the shaft. I know I should cut off the seal that is fixed on the shaft. What about the sliding seal? Does that go back on? Or should I remove it? it seems that they act as sliding bushings as well otherwise the shaft could flex or bend. Is that correct? Any other seals that I should remove? I saw other posts where pinion seals were removed, but is that necessary?

 

[tmoney20g]

This might help:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/depower-a-power-steering-rack-for-2014.486099/

 

[er82]

This might help:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/depower-a-power-steering-rack-for-2014.486099/

That thread says: "Above, you see a black ring and a white ring. The piece with the black ring just slides off, so that's fine. The piece with the white ring is what's on the rack pretty solid. This is also the piece that separates the fluid-side of the rack into 2 sides, so that's what you remove."

However, I'm unclear whether the piece with black ring goes back into the assembly.

 

[tmoney20g]

I believe I put the black one back in there, so it would keep the rack centered inside the tube.

 

[er82]

Do I need to remove the 4 seals that are on the pinion shaft? I greased it but it feels hard to turn in the housing.

 

[tmoney20g]

Depending how tight you made that big fat monster indented cap screw, that'll make the shaft hard to move. That is what puts tension on the shaft. I have mine barely touching the shaft, so mine is very very easy to turn.

 

[er82]

Depending how tight you made that big fat monster indented cap screw, that'll make the shaft hard to move. That is what puts tension on the shaft. I have mine barely touching the shaft, so mine is very very easy to turn.

I removed 2 of the 4 seals on the pinion shaft. That made it easier to turn. Also I screwed in all the way the indented cap screw, but had to back it out about half way to reduce resistance. There was some free play without the cap screw. But seems fine now. Now I just need to plug all of the ports and put back the tie rods and boots.

 

[tmoney20g]

I removed 2 of the 4 seals on the pinion shaft. That made it easier to turn. Also I screwed in all the way the indented cap screw, but had to back it out about half way to reduce resistance. There was some free play without the cap screw. But seems fine now. Now I just need to plug all of the ports and put back the tie rods and boots.

Nice nice, I think it was 5 m14x1.5 plugs and 1 m16x1.5. Bring the rack with you to the store to be sure, that's what I did.

 

[vince93]

Just get a manual 1.8 rack, sometimes they pop up for sale.

 

[er82]

Nice nice, I think it was 5 m14x1.5 plugs and 1 m16x1.5. Bring the rack with you to the store to be sure, that's what I did.

I will cut off the pipe ends and crimp them in a vise as flying miata showed in their article. It seems to do the trick. Probably not the neatest solution. I couldn't find the right plugs for the right price.

Just get a manual 1.8 rack, sometimes they pop up for sale.

I thought about the manual rack but I wasn't sure how it would affect the driving. But I like the current ratio, except for the leaks.

 

[vince93]

I will cut off the pipe ends and crimp them in a vise as flying miata showed in their article. It seems to do the trick. Probably not the neatest solution. I couldn't find the right plugs for the right price.




I thought about the manual rack but I wasn't sure how it would affect the driving. But I like the current ratio, except for the leaks.

Manual rack is night and day, a depowered rack its always gonna be hard to turn, hey but as long as you like it!