De-ricing my rice machine... and some maintenence

[Max-Eclipse]

Ok, I'm leaving the pipe because i like to hear my car, whether it be a 400 Small block '72 GTO (we dont have it anymore ), or a 420a '96 eclipse...

Anyways, heres the things i want to do right now... (some is just fixing some stuff)

1) I'm removing the wing (its not really ricy... it was the stock 3 piece, but i want the wingless look) so what do I need to do to fill in all the holes and stuff, and how much do you think it would cost to get the hatch repainted?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

2) Remove the graphics on the side... I have no clue how to do this without leaving the sticky stuff behind and I don't know what to use to get that off without hurting the paint... any tips? (they were on the car when i bought it... kinda liked them at the time, but want them gone now.)

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

3) Fix my side skirt... it is coming off on the passenger side... do I just go buy clips from the mitsu dealer or what?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

4) Take off the antenna on the back... it doesn't work anyway, and i want a nice smooth flowing look back there...

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

probably going to be some more soon, but thats all i can think of right now, and im in a hurry to get back outside and finish mowing the yard...

thanks

 

[madhatter210]

heat gun and I used Total-Prep to remove the adhesive "sticky suff". Its very time consuming, just be paitent and keep the heat gun about a foot away from the panel working the whole graphic then just start on a corner with the heat still on it. If you rush it you will leave alot of adhesive behind.

 

[zachakagoat]

The holes are going to have to be weled up and then bondoed and sanded. We cant really tell you an estimate on how much it is going to cost because no shop is the same. Just got to some places and get quotes most places don't charge to do a quote on your car so it shouldnt be a problem. And don't always go with the cheapest, you get what you pay for...unless you are best friends with a painter

 

[Max-Eclipse]

Heat gun? As in a blow dryer? Will that work?

Yeah, I won't go with the cheapest paint, I want it to match good and all, and not crack quickly...

Thanks for the replies

 

[CorrupTTalon]

The holes are going to have to be weled up and then bondoed and sanded. We cant really tell you an estimate on how much it is going to cost because no shop is the same. Just got to some places and get quotes most places don't charge to do a quote on your car so it shouldnt be a problem. And don't always go with the cheapest, you get what you pay for...unless you are best friends with a painter

nobody in the right mind would weld a hatch with the glass on it.. either remove the glass and weld or find another way to fill and prep.. there are plenty of body fillers (yea not bondo) that will do the job

 

[n0c7]

nobody in the right mind would weld a hatch with the glass on it.. either remove the glass and weld or find another way to fill and prep.. there are plenty of body fillers (yea not bondo) that will do the job

Whats wrong with welding with the glass there if its covered up properly?

 

[madhatter210]

Whats wrong with welding with the glass there if its covered up properly?

Hrmm I must not be in my right mind , I welded the big center hole closed with the glass in and not covered. The hatch glass is tempered and sitting on a bed of sealer its not going to explode or crack welding up one hole (it didn't on mine or alor of others I know). Remember this is not a structural weld, its only to hold a backing plate in for minimal filler. If you try to fill in the entire hole with weld you would warp the sheetmetal beyond belief far worse a risk then the glass being an issue. It's a low heat bead. I wouldn't recomend trying to braze it closed but a small arc or wire feed weld is fine without taken out the glass.
There is other methods also ( like mentioned above) like filler and the use of jb welded backing(tin is the easiest for the big center hole, bends easy) plates put in to hold the filler in place. Before the plates are put in use a center punch and put about a dozen small holes in it for the filler to bite very well. That way of doing it is not the best imo but its very easy and will last a long time if all the prep is done right. Filler only cracks in high stress areas and poorly preped surfaces. The hardest part of filling in old wing holes is trying to get the paint to match . Even after welding the holes closed I still needed spot putty to even everything out and match what didn't go down to bare metal, that and there was stress pulls from the giant fnf wing.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[Max-Eclipse]

Ok, I'm going to have a guy at my dad's machine shop weld it up for me. He's an extremely good welder... he is certified to weld for NASA and has welded on the things that hold up the space shuttle while its setting on the stand, or something like that... What exactly do I need to tell him so he does it right, and doesn't mess it up or warp it? Or will he already know since he's an experienced welder? We have a MIG and a TIG (I don't know if thats actually what you call them, or if Mig is a brand or what, that's just what we always called them in the shop, and I know nothing about welding hardly... one is auto wire feed, and one is not...)

Anyways, anyone know what i should do about the sideskirts? Just go to the dealer and get the clips?
I'm about to take off, so F what ya heard, because my sideskirts flap like a f**kin bird! anyways... that was dumb.

 

[n0c7]

looks good madhatter.

 

[1gdsmraider]

i cant remember which is which but Mig and Tig are two different welding methods. tig is stronger.

One involves direct feed and constant heat *mig i think*, the other you hold the metal in one hand, and the tool in the other and you can control the heat by a foot pedal *tig i think*

 

[orangetalon]

nobody in the right mind would weld a hatch with the glass on it.. either remove the glass and weld or find another way to fill and prep.. there are plenty of body fillers (yea not bondo) that will do the job

Please explain this one to me, I gotta hear it!

 

[Max-Eclipse]

i cant remember which is which but Mig and Tig are two different welding methods. tig is stronger.

One involves direct feed and constant heat *mig i think*, the other you hold the metal in one hand, and the tool in the other and you can control the heat by a foot pedal *tig i think*

Yeah, thats right... I just wasn't for sure...

 

[Omega]

Please explain this one to me, I gotta hear it!

The only think I can think of is weld spatter causing the glass to break... huge temp difference, that sort of thing. If you cover the glass, you wouldn't have to worry about it.

On a side note, Mr. Nasa welder should be able to do it all on his own.

 

[Bostedquest]

The only think I can think of is weld spatter causing the glass to break... huge temp difference, that sort of thing. If you cover the glass, you wouldn't have to worry about it.

On a side note, Mr. Nasa welder should be able to do it all on his own.

It is more if you go solid/constant MIG weld, you WILL distort the metal, maybe to the point of warping the seat track of the glass.
Then it is only a matter of time before "BOOM" and several days with a shop vac...

However, even spot welding with a MIG would be good enough.
I have a lincoln promig 135 and I absolutely love it.
On that a heat setting of "B" maybe 1.7/1.8 would do sheet metal VERY GOOD on quick half - 3/4 second spot bursts.
Just go in an oposing pattern round the clock. 30 sec cool off before hitting the area you just did.