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vannaksgsx

15+ Year Contributor
113
0
Jul 25, 2007
Boston, Massachusetts
Hey Guys,

My goal is to have a daily driver w/ approx. 350whp. Number 1 priority is reliability. The term "Stock", to me, equals reliable- for the most part. These are the parts I have now: 97 GSX w/ 47k, JAM Stage 1 6Bolt shortblock w/ BS eliminator, 1G head (stock internals), A'pexi N1 catback, 1G intake mani, 14b turbo.

Camshafts
What cams would you suggest for this setup? I don't have ANY cams, and was thinking 264/264. I want something close to stock, but also something that would allow for a little more power. Would you advise on adjustable cam gears, or would my stock gears work?

Exhaust Mani
The stock 1G mani cracked, so I need a new one. I think this decision is a little less difficult, but I know is as equally as important. I guess the question is: what manifolds I should stay away from?

Fuel System- pump and injectors? I know I'll need some basic engine management goodies- boost guage, controller, etc. But I'm trying to stay away from a setup that will require me to dial in everytime I drive it.

Any and all feedback is much appreciated!

Vannak
 
Megan racing sells really good parts. Im getting all megan racing exhaust. i would get megan racing manifold. check it out and tell me what you think. Heres the link to it. I dont think it will fit the stock turbo though. i didnt really read up on it. but they might have more for your car.

Megan Racing
 
If i was you i would listen to them guys and get the fp manifold. Either that or the megan racing one but if you have stock turbo go ahead and get the fp. Its ###### one of the best out there maybe the best.
 
I would get a downpipe to go along with that cat-back. As far as the exhaust manifold goes, a ported 2g manifold will do just fine although the FP one is a nice piece, just stay away from tubular manifolds if you want reliability since they are prone to cracking. I would also use a ported 2g o2 sensor housing or pick up a PR one if I were you. Aftermarket cams aren't a necessity for you're goal so I would spend the money elsewhere first, but that's just me. For fuel something like Evo 560's and a Walbro 190lph will be enough if you don't plan on upgrading the turbo in the future, but since most of us do eventually want more power, you should probably just get the 255 and an afpr and be done with it. This and some 750's or 850's will have you prepared for something like a 16g in the future (which you may need to upgrade to in order to achieve your power goal easily). And as for tuning, I would go with ECMLink lite. It will be more then capable for what you want and will always give you the option to upgrade to the full version later if you ever need it.
 
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264/272 cams, fp/dnp/turbonetics/punishment all have good manifolds, a 50trim, 750cc, 255 intank, and a safc

Thanks for the input guys. IMHO though, I think that's a little bit much for me- right now..anyway. I do agree- I've heard very good things about the FP manifold.

I'm hoping to get some higher level responses though- which I'm sure will come. I need a setup that will work well with what I have already, my JAM Stage 1 block.
 
If you have a stock clutch you will need to upgrade as well. You will need some 650's FIC's and a wally 255 pump, dsm link prefered, you may have to upgrade to a e316g, the fp mani is great, afpr, and there might be more but i can't think of it atm.
 
Put a set of stock cams in it, get a walbro 190lph, 650cc injectors, AFC, E316G, 3 inch turbo back exhaust, we have a nice cast stainless exhaust manifold, air filter/adapter to get rid of the air box.

-Oliver
 
Your going to need a piggy back setup of some sort if you want to reach 350whp. I keydriver chip might get you there but you will still need something a little more to control fuel.

Fuel: 255, afpr, 650cc injectors, keydriver/safc
Exhaust: FP, or 2g mani
Turbo:16g, 20g
Cams:272 would probably be ideal to give you a little more pull up top
 
I've been a memeber since 2002 (reactivated in 2007), and I don't remember this site being so helpful!


Put a set of stock cams in it, get a walbro 190lph, 650cc injectors, AFC, E316G, 3 inch turbo back exhaust, we have a nice cast stainless exhaust manifold, air filter/adapter to get rid of the air box.

-Oliver

I totally agree. Stock cams were designed and engineered to work as perfectly as possible with the stock head. I was thinking that, but they are maaaddd expensive. If I get them from someone other than the dealer, I would have to do EXTENSIVE research to see that they are in GREAT shape. Seeing as how this is a new build- I can't afford to have any problems because of a shortcut. Also, if I want a little more power in the future, I want to be able to use the cams that are in there, will be in there. What about adjustable cam gears?

I love the idea of 272's. I've done some research and they seem to be very popular. My only concern is that, for my goal as a daily driver, it will be overkill and require more "attention" from me- more supporting mods will be required to get the most out of them. No?

I've decided to go with a wally 255 FP. A'pexi AFC? Anyone have great experiences, longterm, with any good injector companies?

I have an aftermarket ACT clutch, but haven't gotten the chance to look at it yet. Chances are, the previous owner wore it the F* down. I'll post pics when I get a chance, and you guys can tell me if it's still good.
 
In went with the 264/272 cam combo. My car is a daily driver > I just put over 1000 miles on it last weekend. Gets 27+mpg and it does not lope too bad, sometimes not noticible much. I have 2 race cars in my shop with cams that lope and the lil dsm 272 is mild. I used the Delta regrinds. They are a year old now and show no wear. Best part is the low cost. Tres...
 
My car is making around 320whp with my butt dyno/dsmlink/similar cars as mine.

For cams, you don't really need them for 350whp but if you do get them - just get 246/272s. I still could get more power out of my stock head if I wanted to.

Exhaust manifold, if on a budget just get a 2g manifold - it'll do fine. If you have the money, get an FP.

Fuel setup: Walbro 255lph. 800cc injectors, I'd get FIC just cause I've had great luck with them. I just say 800's because at 21psi im at 83% duty cycle on my FIC 650's and I don't like being over 80%


Turbo: Should be able to be done on a 16g. If you could get a Buschur Racing 20g without paying out the ass I'd love one of those for a pure reliable DD 350whp car. Mine is around 6-7 years old and has no shaft play, spools great - one of the best street turbos out there. Just too damn expensive to pick up new.

Engine Management: Run a 2g MAF and something like DSMLink v3 lite. Gauges? Idk everyone has their preferences. I love my AEM Uego Wideband. Other then that, I bit the bullet and tried a cheaper route and bought glowshift gauges and they work perfect.


For a reliable DD theres some other things you need to be thinking of too.
Check all your motor mounts. Is your clutch good? Go over all your timing equipment, make sure its all in good shape or replace it. Is your fan setup good? Check your springs, wheel bearings, rotors, etc etc.

Theres so much stuff that you don't think of that likes to break on you. I've put 10,000 miles on my car since December, and I don't even have it set up for being a DD, my idea of it is a race car since I do have a daily. I just enjoy driving it too much - I take it on road trips all the time but I take basically a mechanics shop in the back with me.


So reliable quick DSM = what I said above + take 10/12/14 mm socket /w wrench with you + oil + coolant + an alternator belt :p
 
I've been a memeber since 2002 (reactivated in 2007), and I don't remember this site being so helpful!
Well you porbably know alot has happened since 2002 in the dsm world ha ha


I totally agree. Stock cams were designed and engineered to work as perfectly as possible with the stock head. I was thinking that, but they are maaaddd expensive. If I get them from someone other than the dealer, I would have to do EXTENSIVE research to see that they are in GREAT shape. Seeing as how this is a new build- I can't afford to have any problems because of a shortcut. Also, if I want a little more power in the future, I want to be able to use the cams that are in there, will be in there. What about adjustable cam gears?

I love the idea of 272's. I've done some research and they seem to be very popular. My only concern is that, for my goal as a daily driver, it will be overkill and require more "attention" from me- more supporting mods will be required to get the most out of them. No?
Honestly I doubt you would ever have a problem using a used stock camshaft and can be had for cheap. Try to do as much cam research as possible if 350hp is your goal and you do want aftermarket then most 264 would likely work perfectly fine but do know there is more to a cam then just duration.
I've decided to go with a wally 255 FP. A'pexi AFC? Anyone have great experiences, longterm, with any good injector companies?
If you go with the Wally 255HP it is recommended by most to used a afpr + fuel pressure guage. I would consider the dsmlink lite - I doubt it's that much more than an afc, plus there is alot of support on the link forums and you likely have better control over larger injectors. As far as injectors go I usually don't hear about any tuning issues until around 1600cc(which you won't need for 350hp anyway) - so most dsm drop in injectors are good to go.

I have an aftermarket ACT clutch, but haven't gotten the chance to look at it yet. Chances are, the previous owner wore it the F* down. I'll post pics when I get a chance, and you guys can tell me if it's still good.
If you can afford it I say replace it anyway while its out - ACT does sell discs and pressure plates seperately as well as the whole kit.


Alot of this is a matter of money and what you want to spend it on. If I decided to spend some money I would spend it on say an evo3-16g turbo, fp ex. manifold or evo3(to retain a stock heatshield), dsmlink etc.

If I was going to go a little cheaper keep the 14b use a 2g ex. mani and port it if you like(don't you have already one?). dsmlink lite or try a chip, etc.
 
Yes, I am trying to be as cost effective as possible, ### daddy is not paying for this- without sacrificing quality (sometimes that very hard to do, as we all know). Where can I get NEW stock 4g63T cams for cheap?

WHAT ABOUT CAM GEARS?

My Stock exhaust mani is cracked. I'll probably go with a FP mani. I've attached a pic of my head. I'm pretty sure it's a 1G head.

More importantly, to start off this build- What gasket would you guys suggest? I was gonna go with stock.
 

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There were a few responses earlier that were basically "FP Manifold", and nothing else. I DO appreciate any and ALL responses, so please don't take offense. My apologies, to ALL, if I came off like a DB. I'm putting this out there in hopes to get responses detailing daily driver setups, knowing that I have a Stage 1 block as a "foundation", that have been proven to work.

So I guess by saying "High Level", what I meant was MORE DETAIL- rather than just naming parts.
 
I'd suggest getting the Cometic gasket kit, but run a MLS head gasket. Although I'm going to be running a OEM gasket at 24-27psi soon, OEM is good too - but if I was going to have my block out I'd get it plained too and run a MLS
 
Oh man no offense taken, I just wasn't understanding what you meant. But a safc, 750cc, full exhaust, and a b16g should get you there. Cams will make it much easier but it's a matter of budget. I dd my 581awhp 2g and it does great, every now and then I'll get a small problem to pop up but who doesn't, just maintain the car and it will be much easier.
 
I was trying to say that used stock cams would be fine and most cost effective, but if you would rather go with new cams then aftermarket would likely be cheaper.
Research camshafts to find what you feel would work best. This also goes along with your question about cam gears. It is recommended that you "degree" your aftermarket cams so you would need cam gears for this and to degree them it costs even more time and money. However I have heard that some cams respond well without being"degree'd"(or cam gears) example would be BC 272 not sure about the BC 264's and you might be able to get away with not having cam regrinds degreed either.

either way your gonna have fun with the car.
 
Thanks for all your input guys. I just got the block on the stand this weekend, probably going to start a blog or something to record my progress.


Vannak
 
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