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Cyclone intake manifold reinstall

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Only a couple things left to do to the car.

I'm going to use an actuator that cracks at 3psi, and is fully open at 7psi. Hopefully that will do the trick nicely. Just enough to get the turbo spooling. If I need something more powerful there's always room to upgrade.
 
A good way to find out at what point (psi or rpm) your cyclone butterflies should open is to take the car to a dyno and make a few runs with the runners permanently closed and a few runs with the runners permanently open.

Comparing the two graphs, the permanently closed runs should start off with higher hp and torque numbers but level off in high rpms, and the permanently open runs should start with lower numbers that increase until redline. The point at which these two graphs intersect is the ideal and optimal place you want the butterflies to open. Then you would effectively have all the low-end, with all the top-end as well, maxing the characteristics of the cyclone intake manifold. VTEC on a DSM
 
Only a couple things left to do to the car.

I'm going to use an actuator that cracks at 3psi, and is fully open at 7psi. Hopefully that will do the trick nicely. Just enough to get the turbo spooling. If I need something more powerful there's always room to upgrade.

First not all actuators have enough travel to make flys open all the way. 14b actuator doesnt have enough. you would have to make shorter arm on flys to make it work.

7psi on 16g is like 3000rpm. you may want to use BC to open later

target full open is 4100 rpm. +/- 300rpm
 
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