The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

CW'd my motor..newbish question

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

FutureGSXOwner

20+ Year Contributor
274
0
Aug 27, 2002
Philly Burbs, Pennsylvania
Ok..I have a 99 GSX, was driving like 40mph, and snapped my crank belt. I get a new belt, put it on, and turn on the car..I CW'd it. Now I need a new motor. Do I ONLY need a bottom-end, or do I need the core as well? I'm planning on getting one of the Magnus motors because they're already built for high horsepower but need a little guidance in what I'll actually need to fix the CW without doing the six-bolt swap and CWing again. Thanks.
 
If you do the 6-bolt swap it is highly unlikely you will CW again. If your T-belt snapped, Theres not much you can do about that except double-check it's intergrity.
 
So...the Magnus motors don't correct CW? And if not, why don't they make performance six-bolt engines...or do they?? I want something new and built, not something unreliable and used from Ebay..I'm trying to correct the CW, as well as make my car a beast without buying a six bolt AND building it (Pistons, etc)..Help guys..
 
Well...I wasnt having ANY problems with the car (no CW signs, symptoms, or whatever), and I was driving down the road at like 40mph and I heard the grind or "snap" from inside the engine bay..I pulled over, looked at the belt going to the crank and the alternator, and it was halfway grinded away but I could still drive the car and still can..but as soon as I put the new belt on, it gave me this hideous knocking pingy sound at idle that was coming directly from the crank..and I assumed crankwalk. I'm almost 100% sure it CW'd, but I dont understand why I didnt see it coming..I have a car that boosts 20psi very reliably all the time, and I've never had the slightest sign of CW...so I'm a little confused actually..
 
Honestly, it doesnt sound like crankwalk... because if your engine had walked, you wouldnt be able to drive it. You said that it made a 'snap' sound, but it was still running and driving. If you had walked your motor, your clutch would feel like it wasnt engaging and the engine would just rev..

Sounds like you have more problems though.. if you are snapping accessory belts, there is a reason for it.

Get rid of your seven bolt, get yourself a six bolt, and have fun.


--Scott
 
Definately dosen't sound like you walked.
Personally I would find out what you broke and decide on if it's worth swapping out to a 6bolt or just fixing what you broke.

Me personally... I would rather know what I broke before I just swapped.
 
Wow...so it could be something far less severe (and expensive) than crankwalk?? I wish I would've posted this in one of the advance tech forums instead..I wonder if it could simply be something that isnt bolted on right..any ideas??
 
You need to give a more in depth description of the symptoms that the car is showing as well as EXACTLY what happened and what you have done to help the car (ie. replaced what?).

No need to post it in advanced but if you want it moved there drop me a pm.
 
Ok...when I turn on the car..the crank pulley like wiggles back and forth and is knocking on the frame of the car..its REALLY loud, and it hits pretty damn hard..Another peice of info that might help too; when I went to replace the belt originally..it was really hard to fit it onto the crank pulley..like the pulley was REALLY close to the frame to begin with..and I had a bi*** of a time getting the belt to squeeze in there. Once the new belt was on, the pulley knocked against the frame violently, but didnt knock against it ever with the old belt..even when it tore half way off..And the reason I assumed CW was because the pulley was so damn close to the frame, and that there was horizontal movement of the crank pulley when I turned on my car..Does that help any? I also had the "squeaking" problem when I turned on my car with the old belt which would go away after I threw the car into gear..although I dont know if it was the same exact belt that was squeaking..hope this helps..
 
Sounds more like your crank pulley has seperated than anything else. That is a simple replacement. Cost you maybe a total of $85.

Now, if you snapped a belt while driving the car then you probly messed up more than just the pulley. You need to get your block checked by someone that has a good bit of knowledge.


My crankpulley did the same thing, I just caught it before the belt came off. Get that fixed and then go from there.
 
Best replacement is from the stealership. It is relatively cheap, and is the best thing for our cars. DSM's are in need of some osrt of HARMONIC BALANCER which is what the crank pulley is. It is made of steel/rubber/steel in that order. If you want a pic I can show you a pic of my pulley that seperated if I can find it.


There is another type of pulley that is solid and light. It cost about $200-$300 and "could" cause more damage than good. Just stick with another stocker. You will save money and feel better about it. Trust me.
 
Yeah thats funny..I was going to ask about the "harmonic balancer", but now its all cleared up..thanks guys..but how sure are you guy that this isnt something worse? And could my squeaking belt have implicated it being loose, hence having it fall off the pulley and snag something..and inturn yanking the pulley?? I hope its really as simple as that..
 
I am not sure it is nothing worse. I suggested you see a guy that is engine savy. When the timing belt falls off or snaps you can do SERIOUS things to the engine. Your valves can fall and the pistons will slap them or "Give them a High Five". If you were sitting still and noticed it and at that very sec you turned it off you "MIGHT" be safe.

If you havent gotten the engine to turn over then you have NO way of knowing the extent of the damage. It sounds like the crankpulley started to seperate itself--->causing your belt to fall off (speak then slip)---->maybe causing some internal damage. You should start at the beginning and replace the source of the problem. Then get the engine checked before you turn it over and cause MORE or start causing damage to your car.

Good Luck!:thumb:
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • Wanted 2g Shot in the dark (2g Pass strut cut out)
    Need 2g strut tower to save time.
    • frosh29
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top