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Custom poly-urethane suspension bushing

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Boomdeeze

15+ Year Contributor
2,145
394
Jul 5, 2009
Independence, Minnesota
When I was dropping my rear sub frame to install my new rear end, I broke the grade 10 bolt that holds the control arm to the U shaped bracket. I was forced to cut it the bolt on the sides to drop it and then tried to drill out the bolt that was seized inside the bushing which was a failure. So I cut the old out with a saw-zal and did some improvising to fix it with minimal amount of money.

I had an old poly-urethane tranny mount and had a brilliant idea, tell me what you think!!!
 

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I actually had to pound it into the bushing into the control arm. I also cut the inner sleeve to the exact width of the stock one so it is tight and wont move around. How is this that different than having the normal bushing?
 
I used a drill to give me the outline of the diameter that I needed, put relief cuts in with a knife, and then slowly cut from hole to hole with the knife. After I cut it down to almost the right size, I cleaned it up a little by smoothening it out (Did a little more smoothening after the picture was taken). When its installed, you cant even tell that it was cut from a larger bushing to fit.

I made sure I left enough on there that I had to pound it in with a rubber mallet so it would not be loose. Sure is snug so I really can't see any negative things about it so far.
 
I smoothened them out as much as I could before I installed them. Let me tell you what, it sure is hard to make them a perfect circle but I did my best.
 
The center is that metal sleeve so it should be able to slide around the bolt.

No. The bolt squeezes the clevis and clamps all it's load on the sleeve. It can't move or should not. That why the poly kits come with lube. The bushing slides around the sleeve. On the OEM units the rubber does all the flexing . That's why the OEM's end up tearing out and also why you have to install them at 90*.

Kevin
 
No. The bolt squeezes the clevis and clamps all it's load on the sleeve. It can't move or should not. That why the poly kits come with lube. The bushing slides around the sleeve. On the OEM units the rubber does all the flexing . That's why the OEM's end up tearing out and also why you have to install them at 90*.

Kevin

So, this pops up again. I guess it wasn't only me who was under the impression that the bolt rotates in the center shaft within the bushing. This seems like a better way as for as bushing longevity and suspension articulation are concerned. Is there a way to make it a reality?
 
So, this pops up again. I guess it wasn't only me who was under the impression that the bolt rotates in the center shaft within the bushing. This seems like a better way as for as bushing longevity and suspension articulation are concerned. Is there a way to make it a reality?

Something has to wear and the bushing can be replaces. If the bolt or clevis wear they would have to be replaced and they would more than likely fail before anyone checked them. If you want longevity and suspension articulation you use bearings which are expensive and you get lots of noise vibration and harshness. It all about balance and what you need or want.
 
You've got a good point. All 2 of the random ideas I had to have this happen involved some serious metal on metal time. You could lube up your specialty bolts and washers with a hardness of 12 or something but even if you went around and lubed shit up every week you'd still have a nightmare for MTBF. If you can't beat 'em, join 'em.
 
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