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Custom Oil Catch Can 2g

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TheFlashDSM

Supporting Member
1,106
356
Feb 18, 2010
stony brook, New York
a complete custom fab. oil catch can i built from scrach!! what you think?
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I mean it will catch oil, but with a vented catch can setup you might as well just have hooked the air filters to the valve cover.

Also the breather hooked to the pcv valve is just going to be suckling that dirty air back into the valve cover.

And it's going to reek of gas

But other than that it looks nice
 
I mean it will catch oil, but with a vented catch can setup you might as well just have hooked the air filters to the valve cover.

Also the breather hooked to the pcv valve is just going to be suckling that dirty air back into the valve cover.

And it's going to reek of gas

But other than that it looks nice


why is it going to smell like gas???
 
What made you go with vented catch can versus a sealed catch can?
A sealed catch can with a pre-turbo vacuum source would work a little better as pcv goes. The fabrication is nice and clean though and it looks good.
 
I mean it will catch oil, but with a vented catch can setup you might as well just have hooked the air filters to the valve cover.

Also the breather hooked to the pcv valve is just going to be suckling that dirty air back into the valve cover.

And it's going to reek of gas

But other than that it looks nice


Are you sure?
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When he talks about the venturi tube in the exhaust, he's talking about running a line from the engine to the exhaust with no catch can. That would create oil buildup in your muffler, which is no good. And if you don't have a muffler, you're just dumping oil all over the road which is also no good for a street car. If you put a catch can in between, it's a good setup, but I'd still prefer a pre-turbo vacuum source.

A properly setup sealed catch can is always better than vented, unless you want to keep blow by gasses in the combustion process.
 
I don't watch youtube but I can tell you the breather hose pushes air when it's under boost, and the pcv valve needs suction at idle.

The breather pushes air when under boost due to positive pressure in the crank case. The PCV valve does need vacuum at idle, which is normally supplied by the intake manifold. However, the OPs setup has remove the connection to the intake manifold so vacuum is not there.

so basically the breather is sucking the nasty crank case fumes back into the crank case.

This is incorrect. If you look at a 4g63 valve cover you will see the PCV valve and the breather are connected to the same physical place. Therefore one cannot be under vacuum while the other is under pressure. Its not physically possible. The breather would have to be under vacuum from some point to be sucking gasses back in, which also means fresh air would need to be coming from somewhere else.

The breather setup above his fittings would vent the pcv valve but it would vent it right back into the breather which is under suction.

This is incorrect as well. In the setup above there is nothing to provide vacuum(suction) so nothing would be sucked back in anywhere. The PCV valve is disconnected in the above system.

For the 4g63 the pcv and the breather operate as one unit, under boot the breather acts like the pcv valve and pushes the fumes back into the turbo.

This is correct in terms of the direction of air flow, but not in how it works. The fumes are drawn out of the crankcase by the vacuum created pre-turbo (in a stock system, not the OPs).

And if you have driven with the pcv valve or breather disconnected you will smell the gas fumes from the crank case

This is true. There is a lot of crap in crankcase gasses, including unburnt fuel.

Dabbling with the pcv setup the best way to get clean air through the breather and keep the pcv valve setup is to use 2 sealed catch cans. Really there isn't going to be alot of oil build up but you will get alot of the moisture and vapors out of the system. The op's setup will work but there are more effecient ways to do it without the vapors getting vented back into the engine bay and consequently sucked back in through the slot for the cabin air by the wiper cowling.

Very true.

READ THIS!
 
The breather pushes air when under boost due to positive pressure in the crank case. The PCV valve does need vacuum at idle, which is normally supplied by the intake manifold. However, the OPs setup has remove the connection to the intake manifold so vacuum is not there.

I see where I messed up, his setup is just pushing out the gasses it's never really getting any clean air into the crank case because there is no vacuum. It was late and I was half there



This is incorrect. If you look at a 4g63 valve cover you will see the PCV valve and the breather are connected to the same physical place. Therefore one cannot be under vacuum while the other is under pressure. Its not physically possible. The breather would have to be under vacuum from some point to be sucking gasses back in, which also means fresh air would need to be coming from somewhere else.

Yeah forgot there is no vacuum setup in his application. Still stands that 2 little air filters would do the same thing as his vented setup

This is incorrect as well. In the setup above there is nothing to provide vacuum(suction) so nothing would be sucked back in anywhere. The PCV valve is disconnected in the above system.



This is correct in terms of the direction of air flow, but not in how it works. The fumes are drawn out of the crankcase by the vacuum created pre-turbo (in a stock system, not the OPs).

Well The intake manifold is sucking oxygen from the crank case through the pre turbo intake when the pcv valve operates under idle and is connected to the intake manifold.

the breather and pcv work together to limit pressure in the crank case. Being under vacuum with a pcv valve is the most effecient way to use the system, that is until you upgrade to an external vacuum pump

For some reason I was thinking vacuum was being drawn it was late and I didn't look it over after my first post
 
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I think you are stealing my business haha just kidding
It looks good, but here are my suggestions
1/8" steel is too thick and too heavy. It will work no doubt, but it's a lot heavier and more expensive than it needs to be.
Me personally, I don't like steel wool. Never have. Especially if you are running it sealed. I wouldn't want to take a chance of anything breaking down and getting sucked into a turbo.
I would redo the bracket. Make it all one piece, welded to the can. Simple bolt in and bolt out.
For the drain, I would use an Oring if you didn't already just because

before you guys drop big money at home depot for steel, hit me up. I can probably cnc cut the parts out in your design for not so much money
 
I think you are stealing my business haha just kidding
It looks good, but here are my suggestions
1/8" steel is too thick and too heavy. It will work no doubt, but it's a lot heavier and more expensive than it needs to be.
Me personally, I don't like steel wool. Never have. Especially if you are running it sealed. I wouldn't want to take a chance of anything breaking down and getting sucked into a turbo.
I would redo the bracket. Make it all one piece, welded to the can. Simple bolt in and bolt out.
For the drain, I would use an Oring if you didn't already just because

before you guys drop big money at home depot for steel, hit me up. I can probably cnc cut the parts out in your design for not so much money

LOL i used 1/16" it was late when i made the picture, but this is my first time building a catch can so i forgot to add the direct tabs to mount, so i all ready had painted it and was like sh*t i forgot the tabs, so i built a tray for it seeing it was eaiser to just pick up to drain it, and yes there is an oring on the bolt its only finger tight but dosnt leak and please if you feel you can give a better price and job go for it, no hard feelings im not a shop im a guy building this car in my 2 car garage :p:thumb::hellyeah:
 
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