The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Custom Exhaust

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

My method for finding the bends of exhaust is simple. I know where I am going and just eyeball the bends until I get there. Usually I make a plan for the overall layout and buy the material for that, getting a bit more just in case.

You can see the eyeball method in the first couple downpipe pics. First I put the flange on, and eyeballed where the first bend was going to be. It wouldn't fit so I cut it down and tried again. This time it fit if I angled it a bit forward. With it back in the car, I positioned the reducer and 3" bend to point it the way I wanted it to go. After that, the third bend was a bit more exacting. Since the second band didn't point backwards perfectly, I estimated the remainding angle that I needed and test fit that. I tack weld, and then when satisfied with the fitment, I final weld. I positioned the bungs on the downpipe mostly for clearance, but still making sure the sensors would get a good sample of exhaust flow.

This exhaust was a bit weird because I started at both ends and had to meet at the v-band. That's probably why getting the v-band connected was a bit of a PITA. But my estimation of material was spot on. I made an exhaust for a turbo Miata and then mine, and when done I had used every degree of bend I had, and only about 20" of straight let over!

I didn't think about the driveshaft. You are probably right that it is not good to let it hang down. I wish I could afford a CF driveshaft. Well, I can, I just wish my wife wouldn't freak out about it. ;-)
 
Any tips on how you make the pie cuts for that downpipe? As in how you know what angles, etc?
 
If that is 304 try tuning down the amps some or move alittle bit faster, when it is that grey it's usually from to much heat. Also not sure if you are using a gas lens but if you are not give one a try it will help bring up some color into the welds since you will have better gas coverage. These are all just tips and everyone has to start somewhere. Looks good overall though. V-band exhausts are always my favorite.
 
I guess that's what I get for posting. I always find it funny when professional fabricators say I could do better. No ish I can do better; I'm not a professional fabricator. Really, it's them just feeling defensive because I am doing for a hobby what they do to bring home a paycheck.

I guess I would feel the same if someone on here ran a nuclear reactor as a hobby. :p

Oh, and my gas lens exploded some time ago. Been meaning to get a new one.
 
I don't think anyone was trying to make fun of your welds but most of the people on here seem to just want to help one another. I always welcome help cause there is always someone better out there who has done it longer. I know when I started I sucked really bad couldn't get a bead going on steel to save my life. Plenty of people have looked over my shoulder and told me how I can get better. Just takes time. Now to be fair a pretty weld isn't always a strong weld. When I went to a class a few years ago we did a strength test on a piece of chromoly tube that was fishmouth and welded to another piece. That day there were plenty of welds that looked real pretty but broke under almost no pressure and a few of the guys had some scary looking welds and their parts ended up performing past what was required. I hope you didn't take anything I said the wrong way in any of my posts I just want to try to help out.
 
how much do you think it costed you just in the s.s. pipe ??? just wondering because i like the custom stuff alot and s.s. my apexi exhaust is really good exsept for the 9" 2.5 section
 
Well, on Globaltecheng, the straight costs $12 a foot plus a cutting fee, the bends cost $30 and I paid like $50 for the downpipe bends and cone from Ace Stainless. The muffler came with the car, the cat was $65, and the two resonators cost $80 plus shipping. $30 for the v-band, and $20 for the flexy piece. Then I would say about $60 worth of Argon, filler, bandsaw blades, etc.
 
Well, on Globaltecheng, the straight costs $12 a foot plus a cutting fee, the bends cost $30 and I paid like $50 for the downpipe bends and cone from Ace Stainless. The muffler came with the car, the cat was $65, and the two resonators cost $80 plus shipping. $30 for the v-band, and $20 for the flexy piece. Then I would say about $60 worth of Argon, filler, bandsaw blades, etc.

I think you did a fine job on your exhaust.:thumb:
 
I guess that's what I get for posting. I always find it funny when professional fabricators say I could do better. No ish I can do better; I'm not a professional fabricator. Really, it's them just feeling defensive because I am doing for a hobby what they do to bring home a paycheck.

I guess I would feel the same if someone on here ran a nuclear reactor as a hobby. :p

Oh, and my gas lens exploded some time ago. Been meaning to get a new one.

I guess your right cause working on cars like this is such a danting task:p

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
God that brings back memomories of when I did my exhaust. It's fun as hell isn't it?
 
Hey really cool project! Would we be able to get a sound clip of your efforts and your review on the new exhaust, good and bad? Would be interested to see if the dual resonators really make the sound alot better than just a single resonator. Thanks!
 
Just read through this. Great work! Welds and design look good in my book. The d/p especially, I like the wastegate re-entry.

A sound clip would be cool too. I want to hear it.

Again dude, good job. :cool:
 
Thanks. I will get a sound cut as soon as the car is running again.

I have been having trouble getting it going again after the rebuild... I just discovered it was the injectors that were the problem. Now I have to button everything up and install my F/IC and water/meth kit.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top