Cruise log, review please?

[Kdouglas89]

Hows it look?

 

[gofer]

It looks like you're due for a software/firmware update...

http://www.ecmtuning.com/downloads.php
Firmware Update How To

As far as the tune goes we'd need an idle log to see if the lower MAFComp sliders are adjusted correctly, fuel trims look good cruising though.

 

[Kdouglas89]

This is a idle log I took a few days ago. I made small FT adjustment due to finding a big boost leak. Disregard 2x LC1's. Corrected already.

 

[gofer]

Unfortunately, your idle doesn't look so good. Start from the top - idle, cruise, and then WOT. Follow Tom's video for proper idle FT tuning. ECMLink Demo - Fuel Trim Adjustments


Your WB is logging incorrectly, what pin is it wired into at the ECU?

It looks like you're simulating a narrowband because the WB (assuming your settings are correct) is installed in the front o2 location but you don't have the NBO2 Sim tab setup.

After you do that firmware update and download the latest software these are the things I'd change in the Live Settings, as well as the MAFComp sliders and injector deadtimes following that video...

- ALS/Knk Tab - Adjust your knock sensor control to activate at 3.5k and 30% throttle.
- Dash Tab - Knock CEL change to 3* and Coolant CEL to 220*.
- DTC's Tab - Uncheck the Evap/EGR/MDP box and do a "clear all / update all" to get rid of your CEL.​

 

[Kdouglas89]

I have corrected the WB setup. It initally didn't save correct, but it is fine now. I am not running NBO2. What exactly is off about my fuel trims? I thought +/- 5% is where you are wanting to be? I have been using those demo videos quite a bit.

 

[gofer]

Your CombinedFT's are good, yes, but your AirflowPerRev is inflated which means your 0 and 50Hz sliders need to come down a bit to get it closer to .25 gm/rev. When you make that adjustment it's going to throw off your CombinedFT's so you'll have to adjust your deadtimes again to get back to 0%.

If your not using ECMLink to simulate the narrowband signal with the wideband sensor and you're logging across the front o2 how are you simulating it, are you using the wideband itself?

 

[Kdouglas89]

Ok, I adjusted and it looks like my airflow is holding steady at 24-25. My trims are within 5%. I adjusted what you said to above. It seems the firmware upgrade page is not working. I click submit and the page errors out.

Just took this log, it looking better?

Also, I am not sure what you mean about narrowband? I have the LC1 on front 02, and its wired into my ECU. I had a shop do that for me, so I am kinda unfamiliar. Thank you very much for the help!

 

[gofer]

That' looks good and you did a good job smoothing the sliders too.

Your WB is logging 9.2 - 9.6:1 which isn't correct, it should swing around 14.7:1. I'm sure that's what the gauge is reading but your log is telling a different story... Let's figure out what the shop did so we can fix this problem.

- Where's the physical location of the wideband o2 sensor?
- What wire is it logging across at the ECU, pin 75 or 76?​

The front and rear o2 wires are right next to each other and are both white so they're easily confused, I recommend going over the install. Use this if you need to ---> 2g ECU Pin Out

 

[Kdouglas89]

Actually, the gauge at idle reads 20-21 constantly. Cruising it jumps around a lot from 15-18.

This is what I'm looking at, and I can't really tell a difference between the wires?

Edit, It looks like I have both front, and rear wires plugged in. Should I only have 1? Will I have to follow both wires to see where they go?

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[gofer]

Please answer all of these questions...

- What gauge is it, Innovate LC-1 or MTXL?

- Are there any wires coming from the WB gauge harness going to either of those o2 sensor wires? There should be a yellow or a brown wire coming off the gauge harness and be soldered into one of those o2 wires going to the ECU.

- Where is the wideband sensor installed in your exhaust, o2 housing, a bung on the downpipe, or in the rear o2 location?

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[Kdouglas89]

The gauge is a LC-1.

Following the controller under the hood, It is on a bung on the downpipe.

Both of those white wires are tightly wrapped with the rest of the harnass in electrical tape. Should I cut the tape loose, and trace one to my gauge? "Gauge is installed directly into the dash".

 

[gofer]

...that's why it isn't logging correctly, the shop just installed the gauge and sensor. If you want to make sure though, instead of tracing the white wires in the harness it would be easier to just find the WB gauge wiring. If the BROWN wire coming off the back of the gauge isn't wired to anything then you aren't logging the gauge.

I recommend using the rear o2 sensor to log across, pin 75. To wire it up it requires you to cut the white wire going to the ECU and connect the BROWN wire to it. If you still want to pass emissions I don't recommend you make it a permanent connection, use bullet or spade connectors so it can be easily removed and you can switch between the WB or rear o2 if you need to.

If wiring isn't your strong suit just ask, it will take me 10 minutes to draw a quick diagram for you. I've got a few years of MS Paint skills under my belt.

 

[Kdouglas89]

What would I be logging? I mean, the numbers are changing on the gauge on acceleration, and de-accel??? They do not hold steady at all, but they are definitely reading something haha?

Could you please draw something very elementary up for me! I am awful when it comes to this kind of wiring! This is exactly why I had a shop do the LC1 install for me, and supposibly wire it to my ECU... Sigh

 

[Kdouglas89]

I took the gauge out, and this is what It looks like. Not seeing a brown wire?

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[gofer]

The gauge display is separate then what's logged, it requires additional wiring to the ECU so ECMLink can show in the log what the gauge is displaying throughout a WOT pull.

Find the other end of that cable, there's a controller box with more wiring. Here's a install manual for your gauge if you lost/never got it for yours. LC1 Instructions

I'll draw up a schematic quick...

 

[Kdouglas89]

That wire goes to the controller, which is under the hood. That controller plugs into some sort of wiring, which then leads to the downpipe bung.

 

[gofer]

You're killing me, Smalls.

I'm kidding, but seriously... Don't over complicate this, I promise it really is simple. Here's a photo a LC1 kit, you can see the bigger INNOVATE control box? There's wiring that comes off of that which will have you're BROWN wire inside, I don't know what the shop did with it but now's a good time to find out.

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I remembered I drew something up a few years ago for Brian (snowborder714) and he created a How To article using it... DSMTuners Tech Articles : Innovate LC-1 Installation

This is the install that would apply to you.

Basic install (DB gauge, Logging) [LC-1 placed in rear o2 spot or new bung]

Red wire – 12v accessory power source (e.g. cigarette lighter or radio)
Blue wire – chassis ground
White wire - ECU sensor ground (pin 92)
Brown – split between DB gauge's white wire and ECU pin 75 (ECU Pinout -http://www.dsmlink.com/images/forums/2GECUPinout.pdf)
Yellow – Not used
Black – Calibration push button to monitoring LED to ground​

 

[gofer]

Here's the picture I drew up showing how to connect the BROWN wire to pin 75 (rear o2 signal) so it can be switched if you need to get your emissions test done.

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The bullet connectors in the pictures are nice ones, typically they look like this at Auto Zone, you'll want the red one's.

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[Kdouglas89]

Gofer, you were absolutely correct! I found the other controller tucked away, and the brown wire definitely is not hooked up...

You have no idea how much you have helped me my friend. I will remember your help, and pass it on when I get the chance!

 

[gofer]

That's what the forums are for...

Once you get all that wiring hooked up post back up in this same thread and I'll walk you through getting it setup in ECMLink, if you need it.

 

[Kdouglas89]

You will probably be hearing my cries for mercy, and needing more help next weekend when I have more time. A buddy said he would come over and walk me through it, so that makes me feel a bit more comfortable. I will post back when it's properly hooked up!

Thank you again my friend.

 

[Kdouglas89]

So, I hooked up the brown to pin 75 "rear". I tried going into the settings and swapping the inputs, but I don't think its configured properly. Its reading 7.5 at idle, and goes up to 10ish if I rev it. Am I just running retardedly rich? My gauge is showing 20-21.

 

[gofer]

It probably isn't configured properly, here's what you need to do...

• Connect your laptop to your car's ECU and open up the Live Settings.
• Click the ECU Inputs tab.
• In the table titled "Pin Assignments for Datalogging (PC-Side)" next to the Rear O2 click the window and select LC-1 wideband from the drop down.
• Click "Save Pin Assignments"
• Once it saves select "Captured Values" and find LC1 wideband, make sure it's bold so you know it has been added to your captured values list properly, then save it.
• In the same ECU Inputs tab, find the "Pin Assignments for ECU Functions (ECU-Side)" and next to "Wideband (WB)" select Rear O2.
• Find the "ECU Input Locks for Factory Code" and check the box next to "Lock Rear O2 Voltage".
• Then do a Copy To ECU so it saves.

Start a log and hit the F9 key, find your LC1 wideband from the drop down and add it to the log if it isn't already there.

You always trust what the gauge is physically displaying, never what's being logged in ECMLink if they don't match. So, if what you're saying is true that the gauge is showing 20:1 AFR's at idle then you car (and those logs you provided above) would reflect that but they don't. Those logs show your car idling fine with a STOICH (14.7:1) fuel mix, if they were truly lean the narrowband wouldn't cycle around 0.5v.

My guess is the logged WB value is showing rich because it either isn't setup correctly in ECMLink, which is why I listed the above instructions, or you accidentally wired it to Pin 76 which is the front o2 sensor. Use the photo of the ECU connector that you originally posted and I modified pointing out which wire to cut into and wire in the BROWN wire from the WB. The white wire going to pin 75 is the one closest to the GREEN/BLACK wire...

The reason the WB gauge is showing the car idling really lean and it's idling just fine is probably because you've got an exhaust leak before the sensor so it isn't reading properly. Did the shop that did the install create any exhaust leaks?

 

[Kdouglas89]

I made sure that I wired the brown to 75. I mispoke in the video. I made sure it was closest to the green. I had it setup, except for locking the rear o2. I re-set it up and nothing. Check the video, and look over the wiring please! If you need more pictures or another video, let me know.

Also, I did a motor swap and I probably didn't tighten the exhaust down enough.

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[gofer]

First things first, separate the yellow and white wire from the butt connector. The white wire needs soldered into the ECU wiring harness, pin 92. This time though, you don't CUT the wire going to the ECU like you did pin 75, you just splice into it. Please disconnect ground from your battery and the ECU connectors from the ECU before doing any of this...

As for the yellow wire, cover the exposed end with electrical tape and then fold it over onto itself and zip-tie it to the the harness so it's clean and out of the way.

Make it a point to find the blue wire (chassis ground).

Did you happen to do the free air calibration on the sensor? The how-to is in the instruction manual I linked you to.