The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Crankwalk or do I just need a new clutch?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

audiodan

Probationary Member
22
0
Apr 25, 2005
Huntley, Illinois
My car has a 2100 clutch with about 50k miles on it. I've driven the car alot over the last 2 months (just bought it and being summer and all) and the last week or so I've noticed about 9 out of 10 times after letting off the clutch pedal it comes up smooth, engages about 1/4 to halfway off the floor, continues up then stops about an inch from the top, then kinda "pops" up that last inch. The car really doesn't "launch"... but still takes off ok in first. The other day when I drove it last, I was on the tollway and a couple times while in 5th when I hit boost it basically revved up and didnt really pull. Since I've owned it its never pulled when I downshfted and had it revved past 4k and engaged. Now I'm pretty sure this all points to needing a new clutch disc.. but I'm alittle paranoid about crankwalk. I've never noticed any problems with the clutch petal in turns, but then again I've haven't actively tested this. I have noticed some "ticking" noises coming from the engine but only at idle and it sounds like its coming from the injectors and not down by the crank. Basically the slight "pop" in the clutch that last inch has me thinking too much.. I just need some opinions. Thanks
 
audiodan said:
My car has a 2100 clutch with about 50k miles on it. I've driven the car alot over the last 2 months (just bought it and being summer and all) and the last week or so I've noticed about 9 out of 10 times after letting off the clutch pedal it comes up smooth, engages about 1/4 to halfway off the floor, continues up then stops about an inch from the top, then kinda "pops" up that last inch. The car really doesn't "launch"... but still takes off ok in first. The other day when I drove it last, I was on the tollway and a couple times while in 5th when I hit boost it basically revved up and didnt really pull. Since I've owned it its never pulled when I downshfted and had it revved past 4k and engaged. Now I'm pretty sure this all points to needing a new clutch disc.. but I'm alittle paranoid about crankwalk. I've never noticed any problems with the clutch petal in turns, but then again I've haven't actively tested this. I have noticed some "ticking" noises coming from the engine but only at idle and it sounds like its coming from the injectors and not down by the crank. Basically the slight "pop" in the clutch that last inch has me thinking too much.. I just need some opinions. Thanks
Personally, it doesnt sound much like crankwalk, if you clutch was sticking due to that, it would probably be ina pretty advanced stage of crankwalk, in which case a lot of other symptoms would be pretty evident. Though that is strange about the popping up at the last inch.. try bleeding and readjusting it and see if that helps.
 
when my stock clutch went i had allot rpm skip in in 3rd 4th and 5th mostly when i got on the car it revved like i was in neutral...good indication of a burnt out clutch...i had phantom clutch pedal problems before...turned out my master cylinder was shot

:talon: :talon:
 
You'll have to bare with me a little.. 99% of my experiences working on cars has been on NA auto's.. This is my first turbo/manual car so theres alot I'm a little shady on... but how do I bleed and adjust the clutch.. I'm assuming bleeding it is similar to bleeding breaks.. but have no clue how to adjust... also.. I could probably change the clutch myself, however, again since this aspect is new to me and I've never done it before, would I be better off having a shop do it? And if so how much on average does it cost?
 
Change the clutch yourself. It will take a one weekend day MAX. Just make sure you have good airtools and pb blaster. Put the car in 5th at loowwww rpms. Then just hammer it. If your rpms move and you just sit there, then time for a new clutch. Bleeding the clutch is just like the brakes. Have someone pump the clutch pedal 3 times and then hold, then the 2nd person gets under the car and locates teh bleeder valve on the slave cylinder. Open it, let all the fluid come out or air bubbles. If you have air bubbles then keep donig it. If the fluid launches out like a rocket then your good. To adjust it look under the dash. Follow the clutch pedal up and it should connect to a beam taht all 3 pedals are connected. Follow that over and above the gas pedal there is this " coil " and behind that is a rod going into the firewall. Well there is a locking nut on that rod, break it loose, move the rod to the right, then re lock it. Test pedal out, then adjust again accordingly. :thumb:
 
fwdturbobov1996 said:
Change the clutch yourself. It will take a one weekend day MAX. Just make sure you have good airtools and pb blaster. Put the car in 5th at loowwww rpms. Then just hammer it. If your rpms move and you just sit there, then time for a new clutch. Bleeding the clutch is just like the brakes. Have someone pump the clutch pedal 3 times and then hold, then the 2nd person gets under the car and locates teh bleeder valve on the slave cylinder. Open it, let all the fluid come out or air bubbles. If you have air bubbles then keep donig it. If the fluid launches out like a rocket then your good. To adjust it look under the dash. Follow the clutch pedal up and it should connect to a beam taht all 3 pedals are connected. Follow that over and above the gas pedal there is this " coil " and behind that is a rod going into the firewall. Well there is a locking nut on that rod, break it loose, move the rod to the right, then re lock it. Test pedal out, then adjust again accordingly. :thumb:

if you're the lucky one doing the pumping of the clutch, you'll notice your left leg becomes quite diesel after the workout LOL! LOL! LOL! especially on an ACT 2600
 
ive had it twice, dont worry about CW uless your clutch pedal sticks to the floor after a left hand turn, and/or you hear the ticking noice at idle only when you press in on the clutch pedal
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top