2G Crankwalk 97 Eclipse GST

[sphillips]

Tips on easiest way to check for crankwalk with engine still in car? 97 Eclipse GST.

 

[curt-s]

Manual or auto?
I ask because with a manual you could take a dial indicator, set it up on the frame rail and pin against the crank bolt, tap the crank towards the transmission, zero the indicator, then push the clutch in and look for your max measurement.

Otherwise you need drop the pan and use feeler gauges with the crank pried towards the trans, or set up a dual indicator affixed to the engine block and pry the crank towards the driver side.
If you attach the indicator to the frame rail and pry the crank, you're likely to move the entire engine as you pry, giving false results.

 

[sphillips]

Manual or auto?
I ask because with a manual you could take a dial indicator, set it up on the frame rail and pin against the crank bolt, tap the crank towards the transmission, zero the indicator, then push the clutch in and look for your max measurement.

Otherwise you need drop the pan and use feeler gauges with the crank pried towards the trans, or set up a dual indicator affixed to the engine block and pry the crank towards the driver side.
If you attach the indicator to the frame rail and pry the crank, you're likely to move the entire engine as you pry, giving false results.

Hi Curt.
Thanks for the reply.
I have a manual transmission.
This is a great idea!!
How much movement is considered too much ?

I bought this car brand new in 97.
Drove it for well over 200k and it just started running terrible and blowing flames out the exhaust like maybe an injector issue but put stock injectors back in ans still there.
Maybe stuck valve if not crankwalk?

 

[pauleyman]

Hi Curt.
Thanks for the reply.
I have a manual transmission.
This is a great idea!!
How much movement is considered too much ?

I bought this car brand new in 97.
Drove it for well over 200k and it just started running terrible and blowing flames out the exhaust like maybe an injector issue but put stock injectors back in ans still there.
Maybe stuck valve if not crankwalk?

Crankwalk wouldn't cause that problem. Have you checked mechanical timing?

 

[sphillips]

Crankwalk wouldn't cause that problem. Have you checked mechanical timing?

I didn't have time back in 07 to check much else. I just bought a new car .
It been sitting since.
I am trying to figure out what to finally do with it. Kids are grown and retirement is near and maybe time to actually do it.
Wondering if I can buy a new engine somewhere as an option.
As it stands now I got to get old gas out of tank and lines b4 I even turn it over

 

[pauleyman]

I didn't have time back in 07 to check much else. I just bought a new car .
It been sitting since.
I am trying to figure out what to finally do with it. Kids are grown and retirement is near and maybe time to actually do it.
Wondering if I can buy a new engine somewhere as an option.
As it stands now I got to get old gas out of tank and lines b4 I even turn it over

Wait a min....yiu had this problem in 2007 and you're fixing it now?

 

[sphillips]

Wait a min....yiu had this problem in 2007 and you're fixing it now?

Yep. Would love to get it back running again.

 

[curt-s]

Hey, life interferes.
As Paul says, your symptoms are not crankwalk. For yours, crankwalk would more likely cause a) a severe drop in RPM when you clutch in due to a larger-than-normal gap at the other side of the thrust bearing causing all the oil to dump out that side instead of trying to maintain a wedge between the crank and the bearing, and b) your crank position sensor would potentially get destroyed.
I think I also heard somewhere that shifting whilst turning right while at speed could also become difficult with a walked crank. Or maybe it was left..

Blowing flames, that's a new one .. straight out of a F&F movie. Check mechanical timing, as Paul recommends.

It's nigh impossible for a valve to stick without some sort of catastrophic damage to have happened. Valves are in constant contact with the rollers which are in constant contact with the cams. The only way a valve could "stick" is if a roller fell off, but then the valve would "stick" closed. If it stuck open, you'd have a bent valve in mere milliseconds and likely wouldn't run at all due to complete loss of compression in one cylinder.
An injector that's stuck open could causing intense fuel vapour in the exhaust which ignites. Basically a horrid version of antilag. If that's the case, do not run it anymore as you're just dumping fuel into your oil. Take a whiff with the oil cap off.

If it's been sitting this long, I'd be more tempted to refresh the motor anyway. OItherwise you could source some replacement injectors or have these cleaned.

2007, how stock is this engine?

 

[miliman13]

If you only parked it due to buying a new car at the time, you probably don't need an engine, you just need to spend some time reading, planning and proper diagnostic tools help.

I recently got mines running after ignoring her for 7+ yrs, found many sensors had failed just from sitting, she ran fine when I parked her. ECMLink helped enormously made logging each sensor value easy to determine which had failed. (If you have this option - if not there's other ways)

 

[sphillips]

Hey, life interferes.
As Paul says, your symptoms are not crankwalk. For yours, crankwalk would more likely cause a) a severe drop in RPM when you clutch in due to a larger-than-normal gap at the other side of the thrust bearing causing all the oil to dump out that side instead of trying to maintain a wedge between the crank and the bearing, and b) your crank position sensor would potentially get destroyed.
I think I also heard somewhere that shifting whilst turning right while at speed could also become difficult with a walked crank. Or maybe it was left..

Blowing flames, that's a new one .. straight out of a F&F movie. Check mechanical timing, as Paul recommends.

It's nigh impossible for a valve to stick without some sort of catastrophic damage to have happened. Valves are in constant contact with the rollers which are in constant contact with the cams. The only way a valve could "stick" is if a roller fell off, but then the valve would "stick" closed. If it stuck open, you'd have a bent valve in mere milliseconds and likely wouldn't run at all due to complete loss of compression in one cylinder.
An injector that's stuck open could causing intense fuel vapour in the exhaust which ignites. Basically a horrid version of antilag. If that's the case, do not run it anymore as you're just dumping fuel into your oil. Take a whiff with the oil cap off.

If it's been sitting this long, I'd be more tempted to refresh the motor anyway. OItherwise you could source some replacement injectors or have these cleaned.

2007, how stock is this engine?

So yea I put an upgraded 16g or 20g, not sure, the turbo clipped and ported by a guy in Birmingham alabama.
Upgraded injectors. Fuel pump too. Fuel management system. Huge spearco intercooler. 3inch no cat no muffler all the way to the back.
I think I was running 23 psi with it.
Drove it this way for years and over 100k miles.

Lol true story, driving home on interstate one day. Car was acting up terribly.
Some guy pulls up to my side pointing to pull over. I pull over , he does too. He says man your car was like the batman car. Shooting flames out the exhaust. He was laughing, me, not so much.
But I got it home and put the stock injectors back in. But still ran like shit. And it's sat there since.
Refreshing the motor may be beyond my pay grade. I can do all those bolt ons but pulling the engine , dismantling and back together again well I don't know. Is there a you tube for that procedure

 

[sphillips]

If you only parked it due to buying a new car at the time, you probably don't need an engine, you just need to spend some time reading, planning and proper diagnostic tools help.

I recently got mines running after ignoring her for 7+ yrs, found many sensors had failed just from sitting, she ran fine when I parked her. ECMLink helped enormously made logging each sensor value easy to determine which had failed. (If you have this option - if not there's other ways)

Wow sensors died just sitting for 7yrs?
Mines been sitting for 18 yrs Guess there will be A lot of issues
I'll Google that ecm link
I bet that felt awesome getting your car running again

 

[jed344]

When the motor is still in the car's we will put them on the hoist or in the air, take off the driver wheel, and set up a dial indicator.

Zero it out then move the crank back and forth. I would have to double check the spec but i think .003-.007 is spec or something very close to this. The service limit is .014 or close by memory.
We checked a car for someone that was at .020 as i recall. This was a 2g, the car lived for another couple thousand miles until it destroyed the crank sensor.
We already had another motor ready for him so figured why not just run it till that point.

We have seen once they are so bad the crank will eat into the block as the thrust bearing surface is totally gone.
Personally i will not use a block that has crank walked.

Almost all i have seen where manuals and it was most times due to clutch adjustment wrong so the slave was not free floating so anytime the car was running there was pressure on the crank pushing it against the thrust surface.
I did once see a auto do it though so that is 1 case i can say was real true crank walk. The rest with manuals is hard to say that its hole life the clutch was always adjusted correctly.

 

[sphillips]

When the motor is still in the car's we will put them on the hoist or in the air, take off the driver wheel, and set up a dial indicator.

Zero it out then move the crank back and forth. I would have to double check the spec but i think .003-.007 is spec or something very close to this. The service limit is .014 or close by memory.
We checked a car for someone that was at .020 as i recall. This was a 2g, the car lived for another couple thousand miles until it destroyed the crank sensor.
We already had another motor ready for him so figured why not just run it till that point.

We have seen once they are so bad the crank will eat into the block as the thrust bearing surface is totally gone.
Personally i will not use a block that has crank walked.

Almost all i have seen where manuals and it was most times due to clutch adjustment wrong so the slave was not free floating so anytime the car was running there was pressure on the crank pushing it against the thrust surface.
I did once see a auto do it though so that is 1 case i can say was real true crank walk. The rest with manuals is hard to say that its hole life the clutch was always adjusted correctly.

This is great information thank you.

My car is 2g with manual transmission but stock clutch.

Do you have shop manuals for this old 2g

 

[luv2rallye]

Mitsubishi manual states crankshaft end play is:
Standard value: .0020-.0071 inch
Limit: .0098 inch
Manuals (choose "2G DSM Factory Service Manual - Chassis and Body Volume 1") at "https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/dsm-maintenance-guide.476550/".

 

[sphillips]

Thanks Gary

Mitsubishi manual states crankshaft end play is:
Standard value: .0020-.0071 inch
Limit: .0098 inch
Manuals (choose "2G DSM Factory Service Manual - Chassis and Body Volume 1") at "https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/dsm-maintenance-guide.476550/".

 

[curt-s]

When the motor is still in the car's we will put them on the hoist or in the air, take off the driver wheel, and set up a dial indicator.

Zero it out then move the crank back and forth. I would have to double check the spec but i think .003-.007 is spec or something very close to this. The service limit is .014 or close by memory.
We checked a car for someone that was at .020 as i recall. This was a 2g, the car lived for another couple thousand miles until it destroyed the crank sensor.
We already had another motor ready for him so figured why not just run it till that point.

We have seen once they are so bad the crank will eat into the block as the thrust bearing surface is totally gone.
Personally i will not use a block that has crank walked.

Almost all i have seen where manuals and it was most times due to clutch adjustment wrong so the slave was not free floating so anytime the car was running there was pressure on the crank pushing it against the thrust surface.
I did once see a auto do it though so that is 1 case i can say was real true crank walk. The rest with manuals is hard to say that its hole life the clutch was always adjusted correctly.

You set up a dial indicator, but what do you affix it to and how what do you use to move the crank back and forth? I'm just curious

Super close on the limit

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My 1993 manual states otherwise..

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[jed344]

You set up a dial indicator, but what do you affix it to and how what do you use to move the crank back and forth? I'm just curious

Super close on the limit

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My 1993 manual states otherwise..

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I have one with magnetic base and arm i use when i build motors. I stick it to something where it will not move. You can tap the crank all the way towards trans side with balancer then use a pry bar to pry it back. Heck when they are bad you can just push and pull the balancer by hand back and forth. YFI if you can and you notice it move much that's a bad sign.

 

[curt-s]

I have one with magnetic base and arm i use when i build motors. I stick it to something where it will not move. You can tap the crank all the way towards trans side with balancer then use a pry bar to pry it back. Heck when they are bad you can just push and pull the balancer by hand back and forth. YFI if you can and you notice it move much that's a bad sign.

Yeah I was just wondering where you might attach it when the motor is still in the car since a prybar is used.

Was not questioning your abilities, that would've beyond stoopid