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crank trigger plate CPS clearance problems

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nastyleak

10+ Year Contributor
93
0
Oct 14, 2010
Mobile, Alabama
Currently I am having a 98-99 7 bolt rebuilt at a local machine shop. This is with all new parts except the block and the stroker forged eagle crank.

The problem: the crank trigger plate does not fit the crank position sensor, or in other words the trigger plate is too far out or the sensor is too far in and they would rub horribly. Using new OEM: oil pump housing, trigger plate, crank sensor, end eliminating the balance shafts.
Is the problem:
1. It appears that the spot on the oil pump housing where the crank sensor should bolt up is not far enough out and is actually not the same as my old oil pump housing. It actually appears that this is the case and it is manufactured differently?

2. The crank trigger rubbing the CPS is a symptom of crank-walk. But this is a newly built motor, is it possible that they: didn't install the thrust bearings correctly, left some out, or used the wrong ones?

Has anyone ever had to add washers behind the crankshaft position sensor to make it line up right and keep the trigger from rubbing it?

3. Another possibility is maybe they left something out that has to do with the BSE on the crankshaft or installed something wrong which has caused the trigger plate to be out too far?
 
First verify that you have the trigger plate on right, and that it isn't on backwards. Second verify that the end plat is within spec. If all is well than you will have to shim the sensor with washers.
 
So has anyone else had to shim the CPS? Adding washers is exactly the fix that the guy who is building it came up with (this is at a reputable machine shop although they don't commonly rebuild these engines). I just thought it was odd and wanted to see if anyone else had seen this before. I just want to make sure we aren't missing something that should be there that would cause this issue like BSE related things etc.

It just seems like using all oem parts except the crank and internals shouldn't leave the trigger plate and CPS out of alignment.

No the plate is not on backwards as we have the engine that had a timing belt failure for reference and it doesn't fit right either way.
 
I have had to add shims on a few engines in the past. There could be a slight difference in the thickness of the oil pump or thickness of thrust bearings or something like that.
 
The thing that stands out to me the most, is the eagle crank. Also, there ARE different trigger wheels. I'm running the kiggly trigger on my 6 bolt and it mentioned this in the instructions and came with two different wheels with different depth steps in them. Your eagle crank may be made for a pre two piece thrust bearing....
 
The thing that stands out to me the most, is the eagle crank. Also, there ARE different trigger wheels. I'm running the kiggly trigger on my 6 bolt and it mentioned this in the instructions and came with two different wheels with different depth steps in them. Your eagle crank may be made for a pre two piece thrust bearing....

The early and late model 7 bolts use the same crankshaft, the only difference is the block where the bearing fits in it.
 
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