Crank timing gear bolt removal?

[JONSHERER]

My crank timing gear bolt is totally froze and my timing belts off so I have no way of holding the engine in place. Maybe I'm turning it the wrong way?(left). You would think that on a clockwise engine to loosen the bolt you would turn it the way the engine spins which is right. But everyone online shows left. Any suggestions?

 

[WES_393]

When I did my timing I also had the belt off. I used the starter trick and it went flawlessly. I guess I should note, however, I may or may not have had my cams removed at the time - but I also don't recall seeing/hearing the rotating assembly spinning round and round when I did it.

I do clearly recall that nasty scent that came from beneath the cam caps, though.

Don't you love the smell of old bolts? Just removing my stock head bolts forced everyone to leave my garage... and it's 700 sq/ft.

But I have used the starter method I described on dozens of cars and multiple DSM's. 4g63, 4g64, t-belt on or off, cams in or out, etc etc and I've never had anything but positive results. Seriously, if you've done the impact/torch method, the first time you use the starter you'll face palm yourself.

 

[My1GLaser]

You can also take a pickle fork, or large screwdriver and wedge it between the flywheel ring gear and the transmission case. You can take the FW inspection cover off and do it there. I have used this method many times with no ill results.

Obviously there is a risk of chipping a tooth or the transmission case if you aren't conscientious and jerk the breaker bar on the crank bolt. Use constant pressure and pull the breaker bar til the bolt breaks loose. It can take upwards of 250-300 ft/lbs on a really stuck bolt and you'll swear you're gonna break something! Brace yourself, so you don't fly into something when the bolt breaks loose

Don't reuse the bolt if you heat it!!!

I cracked a socket when I used the starter method! Probably should have used an impact socket!

 

[JONSHERER]

Ya I tried wedging something in a hole in my outa pulley because my harmonic balancer pulley has holes in it and I wedged it against my frame. Cranked on the bolt putting a few hundred pounds on using a seven foot bar and ended up bending the metal tools I used to wedge in the pulley to hold it. That was the other day. Hopefully I have better luck today

 

[pauleyman]

Nobody bothered to ask. Are you changing a seal or front case? If you're just changing a belt you don't have to remove that bolt.

On a 7 bolt motor anyway. 6 bolt you have to remove the bolt if you doing anything behind the plate including the balance belt. 7 bolt you can change the balance belt without having to do that. Doesn't look like there is enough room around the plate but there is.

 

[JONSHERER]

I'm changing the balance shaft belt and there's a plate the crank position sensor or whatever reads that covers the belt. That's why I had to take it off. Got it off using the starter. Engine only turned twice thanks guys!

 

[pauleyman]

Well for next time remember on a 7 bolt you don't have to. If you have a 6 bolt in your car then of course you would. My statement above still stands.

 

[JONSHERER]

I tried you can't put something through a metal plate there was no room.

 

[My1GLaser]

Holy sh_t!!! A 7 ft bar??? I have used that to loosed a 4" NPT valve cap on a railcar, but never needed anything close to that on a car

If all else fails, you can pull the oil pan and put something between the counterweights on the crank and the block. I have used a breaker bar as a wedge since quite a few counter weights line up nicely and jam it. This was upside-down on and engine stand though...

Did you try wedging something on the other end of the crank where the FW is?

 

[JONSHERER]

Got it loose by tapping the starter! Very loud bang though.

 

[NHerron]

There is a point (actually 4 points per cam) where the cam angle is between cycles, so there are no valves open. Without the belt on, the cams will naturally go to this position. Even if the valves were to sit open a hair, there is almost always enough room to hit TDC without valve contact. The few exceptions would be very high comp pistons, head milled to far, cams with seriously increased duration, etc.

But if the OP is worried about valve contact, I would simply suggest rotating the engine by hand. Just one full rotation will clear any suspicion of valve contact.

You're right, I wasn't thinking of how the valves don't stick out far enough to hit, during certain angles. I guess what I was getting at was there's never an angle that ALL the valves are perfectly closed together, however, they are closed enough of the way to not cause any piston contact. Gotcha

Still wondering about post #14 though guys...

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Got it loose by tapping the starter! Very loud bang though.

Oh yes, I also recall that snap sound - both cams and crank. Almost as much as the smell!