crank pressure ideas.

[Aproductions]

So I am building my motor for around 400whp.

What is the smartest way to relief the crank pressure?>

I was going to do the 2 catchcan way with 1 between the valve cover side and the intake pipe and the other between the pcv valve and the intake mani.

should I delete the pcv valve or run AN fittings or what?

What has worked for you guys and which is the best for the motor.

 

[JacksonAuto]

Run the PCV valves with an in-line oil seperator. Breathers and vented catch cans defeat the purpose of a functioning PCV system.

 

[99gst_racer]

If you haven't read Calan's PCV tutorial yet, then do that first.


If you're still rocking a stock intake manifold, I'd recommend something like this:

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If you're rocking an aftermarket intake manoifold that doesn't have a PCV provision, I'd recommend a set-up similar to this:

Both of the above use a sealed catch can(s).

 

[Aproductions]

Yes, thank you, I mentioned that first method a couple posts above but just wanted to make sure it was the best application for me. I have 2 sealed catch cans already.

So just to confirm this, that method is good for the motor with high horsepower? I always see all these other guys running big -AN fittings and thought that is what I should have done.

oh and BTW I am using a evo 3 intake manifold.

 

[99gst_racer]

Yes, either of those would be sufficient for 400 WHP , as long as your engine is decently healthy. Adn you can build the set-up with AN fittings if you'd like.

 

[Aproductions]

Yeah it is going to be just built and I want everything to be proper. Now I have 2 sealed cans but they do not have the steel wool stuff in them.

I thought the oil lines would just go through and then drain the oil into the can and then go back to the motor with no oil. The whole steel wool idea is that the air even though it is oil free would have particles in it that are harmful to the motor?

So how important is the steel wool?

 

[99gst_racer]

The catch can's job is to catch aerosol contaminants that are in the air. Oil, water, fuel, etc... Most sealed catch cans use some sort of filter or baffling to help separate the contaminants from the air. If the can is empty inside, then it won't be near as efficient at separating them, and you'll be re-introducing some of those contaminants to your turbo, intake manifold, and engine.

 

[Aproductions]

oh well could you post a link of one of the catch cans you are talking about? I have the greddy 1.

 

[m_0ney_pit]

I remember one of the elders talking about tapping the inspection hole in the back of the block for a npt fitting and running that to the catch can also to relieve extreme crank pressure. Haven't needed to do this but am going to do it on my motor build over the summer.

 

[Aproductions]

tapping what hole? I never heard of that, please explain.

 

[Rob10_99]

tapping what hole? I never heard of that, please explain.

Really...

Well if you pull out the barb you can start tapping it.

 

[99gst_racer]

I remember one of the elders talking about tapping the inspection hole in the back of the block for a npt fitting and running that to the catch can also to relieve extreme crank pressure. Haven't needed to do this but am going to do it on my motor build over the summer.

That was typically used to drain the catch can back into the crankcase. Some guys set up race cars this way, but I'd recommend against it for a street car.

oh well could you post a link of one of the catch cans you are talking about? I have the greddy 1.

I'd recommend this can: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/vendor-announcements/381892-oil-catch-can-weekend-sale.html

And here's some install pictures using it: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/372279-my-new-crankcase-evactuation-system.html

 

[m_0ney_pit]

it was discussed on 4g64 group a while back by wrenchspinner. I hope he doesn't mind me posting the info here. The hole was the rear balance shaft check, guess you don't have to re-tap it if you have a proper metric bolt fitting. you can then vent this also to your catch can.

 

[99gst_racer]

The problem is that that hole is tiny. It won't allow much of anything to pass through at any decent rate. There's far better and more efficient solutions for evacuation of the crankcase.

 

[m_0ney_pit]

Don't want too get off topic to much but the oil drain holes in the head that go into the block are whats relieving the crank case pressure right? I wonder how the oil draining back down the holes at higher oil pressures effect crank pressure relief?

 

[Aproductions]

Hey Paul, the only problem with that can is the 2 in's and 1 out.

how would I set that up?

 

[99gst_racer]

Hey Paul, the only problem with that can is the 2 in's and 1 out.

how would I set that up?

That depends. Of the two variations shown in post #3, which would you prefer?

 

[Aproductions]

Well the first one looks safer because that way basically garentees no oil gets in my intake pipe and to my throttlebody. If I went with the other one couldn't oil still go through the PCV?

But, those cans are pretty exspensive and I don't think I want 2 of them.

Also I wanna keep the PCV functional.

 

[99gst_racer]

If you want to retain the PCV system, then best way to do it is with two sealed cans like in diamgram #1. Diagram #2 is for when you want to remove the PCV system.

I know 2 of those cans would be a little pricey, but that's the price you pay for good, well-built, properly functioning products.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/152309302-post75.html

 

[dsmrollerz90]

Okay now I was planning on doing this next week, but I wanted to make my own, what materials do I need to put in the can?

Also, would it be okay if i blocked the PCV valve on the top left of the VC and just run the line on the left side of the VC? Or would that harm the motor?

Also if I could run both into the same can and to the intake and to the mani? Or would that mix up the gasses and harm the motor?

A PM would be best because I will lose this thread.

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

Also, would it be okay if i blocked the PCV valve on the top left of the VC and just run the line on the left side of the VC? Or would that harm the motor?

Also if I could run both into the same can and to the intake and to the mani? Or would that mix up the gasses and harm the motor?

A PM would be best because I will lose this thread.

You need to keep the PCV valve in the system and/or add a us plastics type valve like described here.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/366890-4g63t-pcv-system.html
After all it is what is responsible for checking off the boost pressure so it doesn't pressurize your crankcase.


Let me repeat.... PLEASE read the above thread. It has lots of answers to your pcv questions.

And why would you lose this thread. There are many ways to keep track of it. Since you have already posted in it you can find it quickly by going to the top of the page and click on FORUMS and then go down to MY POSTS. Then you can quickly see all of your most recent posts.

 

[dsmrollerz90]

Wow, thanks that helps alot. The reason I asked is because I got a VC from a friend and the PCV port is not there. There is only the one on the left. I guess I'll be sticking to my stock fugly VC.

I love your car BTW.

I always wondered how it would look black.

 

[Aproductions]

okay I could do those cans but each would only have to have 1 in and 1 out. Are those made like that?

 

[99gst_racer]

okay I could do those cans but each would only have to have 1 in and 1 out. Are those made like that?

Craig (calan) can build them in any resonable configuration. Yeah, you'll want a single inlet and single outlet on each can.

 

[Aproductions]

alright I can talk to him about it, Do you have any idea what the filter looks like, like how would I replace it if I ever needed to?