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2G crank no start

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streetsoldier60

15+ Year Contributor
55
1
Feb 16, 2008
Celina, Ohio
so I've doen some research and tried to check some things out but my mind is spent. I just can't figure this out.
so I have a 95 Tsi
put a 6 bolt motor in with the E316G turbo.
Have brand new battery and brand new starter.

car cranks and sounds like it has a puff in the exhaust but it just doesn't want to start.
when looking at the cams its like they spin spin spin then bind up then keep spinning but Timing is DEAD on I have checked it like 10 times and had 3 other people look at it and all say its good.
plug wires are good. 4-1-2-3..
spark plugs are less than 3 months old. I just can't figure this out and need some help I really want to see this car running again. thanks in advance.
Fuel pump does whine.
 
Start with a boost leak test, if you have a big vacuum leak that can be the problem, did you reverse the order of the spark plug wires? I don't think you should have but I'm not certain at the moment. Are you getting fuel? What about spark?
 
First things first check to see if all of the spark plugs are firing, to do this take the spark plugs and lay them on the valve cover, then take the CAS and spin it by hand to see if they spark. IF all of them spark then move on to fuel, again move the cas by hand while listening to the fuel injectors (you have to get pretty close to them) and see if they are "clicking". If you have fuel check the pressure with a gauge assuming you have good fuel pressure and your getting spark then move onto a compression test.

An engine needs 3 things spark fuel and compression, you are lacking one of those.
 
I went to VFAQ and looked at the 1g in a 2g page and wired my CAS up the way they told me to on there so I don't see how that would of been wired up wrong. and its a complete 6bolt swap. head and motor so i swapped the two blue wires on my coil so I didn't have to effect my spark plug wiring. so its still just 4-1-2-3. so I know plug wires and plugs are good.
problem is I don't have a boost leak detector, no compression tester, and no fuel pressure tester with me right now...I can probably get all but a boost leak tester tomorrow from work but not right now. I'm just lost.
 
First things first check to see if all of the spark plugs are firing, to do this take the spark plugs and lay them on the valve cover, then take the CAS and spin it by hand to see if they spark. IF all of them spark then move on to fuel, again move the cas by hand while listening to the fuel injectors (you have to get pretty close to them) and see if they are "clicking". If you have fuel check the pressure with a gauge assuming you have good fuel pressure and your getting spark then move onto a compression test.

An engine needs 3 things spark fuel and compression, you are lacking one of those.

So just unbolt my CAS and pull it off the head and spin it by hand and see if my spark plugs are sparking? then listen for the injectors?
 
okay turned the CAS and visually confirmed I have spark from all spark plugs and have fuel...no way to test compression right now...but while cranking it just doesn't sound right and has anyone had trouble with a flywheel possibly hitting the transfer case think this could be why its not starting just gets binded up on tcase??? MAYBE I dunno thats why I'm askin...we aren't born with knowledge haha so just askin all this stuff to get my baby road worthy again.
 
Sounds like the same issue I had when first trying to start my six-bolt swap. All I had to do was move my CAS a little. You will most likely need to as well. You most likely have the CAS rotated too far forward which means your timing is off. If you can't even get the car running, then I'm pretty sure your timing is not DEAD on. Turn your CAS counter-clockwise to retard timing a little more and see if it starts, then check your timing w/ a timing light and logger setup. I'm pretty sure this will help you get the engine running. I would also suggest that you make sure you have the four prong ISC sensor off of your 2G throttle body or your idle will never drop down where it is supposed to. I made that little mistake as well when I did my swap. It's always the little things. :thumb:
 
Sounds like the same issue I had when first trying to start my six-bolt swap. All I had to do was move my CAS a little. You will most likely need to as well. You most likely have the CAS rotated too far forward which means your timing is off. If you can't even get the car running, then I'm pretty sure your timing is not DEAD on. Turn your CAS counter-clockwise to retard timing a little more and see if it starts, then check your timing w/ a timing light and logger setup. I'm pretty sure this will help you get the engine running. I would also suggest that you make sure you have the four prong ISC sensor off of your 2G throttle body or your idle will never drop down where it is supposed to. I made that little mistake as well when I did my swap. It's always the little things. :thumb:

thanks i guess I can try that out and see what happens...my only concern is that the fly-wheel is hitting the side of the transfer case, only in one spot and barely at that but it is hitting... what would be causing this? any ideas? thanks guys and gals for all the help so far! don't know what I would be doing without you all!
 
The flywheel issue is very interesting. The only couple things I can think of that would be causing that would be either your transmission is not mounted securely against the block or the transfer case is not mounted correctly. I haven't ever heard of any issues with the flywheel having clearance issues with the transfer case. I'll go take a look at the couple blocks and transmissions I have and maybe try to give you a more educated answer.
 
With the flywheel hitting the t-case you may have an extreme case of crankwalk. I've never heard of it being that bad but hey, new things every day. Grab your crank pulley on the front of the engine and see how much crankshaft endplay you have, then get back to us with the results. Hope this helped LOL.
 
With the flywheel hitting the t-case you may have an extreme case of crankwalk. I've never heard of it being that bad but hey, new things every day. Grab your crank pulley on the front of the engine and see how much crankshaft endplay you have, then get back to us with the results. Hope this helped LOL.

sorry, no crankwalk I checked that out way before I even put the motor in the car...I dunno its like just one lil edge maybe 1/4 inch hits the tcase on the flywheel and its like only by a hair it looks like but I think its enough that its not letting the car turn over right...i dunno this just has me confused...:cry::cry::cry:
 
Alright other than that just make sure all your transmission housing bolts are tight and it is completely against the engine block. Mine came a little loose and did this, I tore the trans out thinking something was wrong but I put it back in, torqued them to specs and haven't had a problem yet. Good luck man.
 
Alright other than that just make sure all your transmission housing bolts are tight and it is completely against the engine block. Mine came a little loose and did this, I tore the trans out thinking something was wrong but I put it back in, torqued them to specs and haven't had a problem yet. Good luck man.

alright i will try this the next time I get a chance to work on the car....its just to bad Midas owns my ass and I never have time for myself...oh well thats okay should be getting my old job back here soon! thanks for all the suggestions and help everyone.
 
The only way it could do that, well if the trans-to-engine bolts are tight that is, is if the crank actually shifted sideways, or if the input shaft to the trans is bent or broken. And I doubt that any of those happened, the bent input shaft may be a possibility but I would imagine if there was enough wear for the crank to actually shift sideways a little, you would notice LOL. I would just crank down on all the transmission mounting bolts and see what changes. If it doesn't help then we will go from there LOL.
 
The only way it could do that, well if the trans-to-engine bolts are tight that is, is if the crank actually shifted sideways, or if the input shaft to the trans is bent or broken. And I doubt that any of those happened, the bent input shaft may be a possibility but I would imagine if there was enough wear for the crank to actually shift sideways a little, you would notice LOL. I would just crank down on all the transmission mounting bolts and see what changes. If it doesn't help then we will go from there LOL.

Alright thanks for some input I will try that tomorrow and let you all know what happens also tomorrow night I will have a compression tester as well to see if just by chance I got a bad head but I don't think so...
 
okay so I did some looking around and I loosened up three tcase bolts and that seemed to move my flywheel far enough away that it doesn't hit the case anymore...still cranks and no start. its like a really hard crank tho. as if something is stopping the motor from trying to crank but yet if I use a ratchet i can turn the motor fairly easy...while cranking it sounds like your ripping into a hard plastic case...and the motor kind of shakes pretty violently. (u know guys like you got your favorite toy growing up and it was in that hard plastic case and you had to rip it apart) thats what my motor sounds like while cranking does this help at all!?!?!? SO LOST NOW!:notgood::cry:
 
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