Couple of things from today

[awzer2]

So...
Today i had a few things i needed to look at.
i got pictures with my super awesome iphone 4s camera .
and here they are.
pretty self explanatory but i do have some Questions.
Here we go.

but first off heres my car.

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The main focus of today was to remove my big16g to get it prepped for a new hotside.
Heres why i need a new hotside.

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Anyone have any ideas to salvage the hotside even with this damage?
or is it scrap metal?

also heres what my turbo looks like right now, it doesnt have any in and out play but it has 1/2 a mm left right play which is normal.
but it does have slight blade damage. is this normal?

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upon removal of my manifold before i took everything out i discovered a crack on my 7 mm exhaust

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any way to fix this? i also have a 6 mm exhaust mani i can use but its gonna restrict all kinds of air flow.. should i just port it out?

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is one of my valves LEAKING OIL
look closely

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Now on a lighter note..i was told these were 272 hks cams...
does anyone recognize this marking?

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anyhow just leave a couple responses if you would like .
you don't gotta answer all my questions just whatevers within your knowledge thanks playazz

 

[atownturbo]

Lookin good

You can weld right over that crack and grind it down. I did it with mine and it held up.

 

[awzer2]

what kind of weld?

 

[turboglenn]

YOU can either stick weld or TIG weld that crack. It's cast steel (not iron as most assume it to be) so it will weld fairly nicely (i've put WG flanges on many oem manifolds)

Anyway, You'll want to use a rod for stick welding labeled Ni99 or something to that effect, it's just a 99% nickel welding rod (they aren't cheap, i believe a few bucks a peice but yuou'll only need one, and they are often sold in packs of 8 for abour 12-15 bucks)

The first thing to do in repairing that manifold is to drill a hole at each end of the crack to stop it from spreading further (a 1/16th to 3/32 bit is plenty big)

Then, You wantto heat the manifold to around 350-400*F in an oven or grill, (use a grill, it will make sense in a few minutes) Once hot you can ARC weld with the stick, or if you're a TIG kinda guy, beat the flux off the nickel rod and use somesand paper to get the last residues of it off and use it as TIG filler rod. Once You've completed the bead from end to end where your holes are drilled then you want to place the manifold back in the grill on the charcoals and let it sit there untiul the coals burn out and cool down. Or if you have to use the oven put it in there and slowly reduce the heat after 15 minutes to about 200*, wait 15 more minutes and turn oven off and let cool with piece inside.. if you have to use a torch to heat it you can bury the hot manifold in some sand in abox to slow the cooling proicess down.. this heat control keeps the materials of the basemetal and filler rod fromexpanding or contracting at too different of rates which would cause another crack or the repaired one to continue

These arethe rules for cast iron, but as i said this is cast steel, it's more forgiving but learning good welding practice for cast iron is a valuable skill to have so go ahead and do it as if it wereiron and you'll be that much better off.

As for the turbine housing, if the only damage is that bolt hole,then i don't see why it should be junk, you can find a way to secure it as is or use some of those same weldingtechniques and repair it as well, but you'll have to grind the area where the flanges mate to a nice flat surface (lapping with sand paper taped/glued toglass ot flat granite counter/table tops works beautifully

Andthat turbo "blade damage", i wouldn't even think twice about running it.. if you've seen some wheels that i've ranb aswell as the normal condition of a comp wheel that's seen a long hard service life, then you'd think yours is brand new

BEst of luck and keep the boot up high

 

[Imback]

To much...