Couple of issues I've been trying to tackle with no luck

[mantega4g63]

So basically, i KNOW my turbo has too much shaft play and soon the oil seal will blow and possibly send shards of metal into my engine; i'm working on replacing the turbo asap. Also has a boost leak, and the bov needs to be recirculated. I believe this knockoff ebay bov is not releasing all the pressure which lead to killing the knockoff turbo. This post is to confirm my turbo is the main source of my problems, otherwise I need to direct my attention elsewhere. A few of these problems I believe may be related to the fact I don't have a heat shield and the engine bay gets SO hot, the air filter may have clogged some from water and the hot temps make it impossible to run. That or a fouled plug or something simple but tell me what you think. Onto my issues:

Car has a very tough time with starting after it's been driven a decent amount. Once up to operating temperature and I start it, it idles rough and at around 750rpm or lower. Normally it's at 1k solid. Pretty strange but as long as the car is warmed up, it won't idle properly.

Second, almost every time after giving it a decent amount of throttle and begins to attempt to enter boost, when I press the clutch in and the rpms drop, the engine tries to stall. The rpms go all the way to 500 and the light comes on like I almost stalled out, but it will recover and get back to 1k idle again. I mainly notice it when I shift at around 4k rpm and don't shift into the next gear immediately.

Lastly, the car drives very very weak on some mornings for the first minute or so. It feels like i'm pulling a piano behind me or running on 2 cylinders, the lack of power in the low rpm range is crazy.

 

[Mickey6]

For the turbo, as long as its not an ebay one, it would be cheaper to send it to username on this forum: JusMX141, for a rebuild .

Did these issues develop after anything was changed or has it been on going since the purchase of the car? If it changed after doing a mod or maintenance, you can look into that as the possible issue. I also noticed that on your mod list, you have a walbro 255 pump. Do you happen to have a fuel pressure regulator installed as well?

Have you checked the spark plugs for the smell or residue of excess fuel and gap (could tell you its running rich and then troubleshoot from there), or done a boost leak check (vacuum leaks can cause a crappy idle and it might tell you if the ebay BOV is leaking).

Another basic thing to try is to let the car idle and pull off each spark plug boot individually to see if the engine idle changes any....but make sure to pull one off at a time and then put it back on, then on to the next one.

Once again these are all basic things to start with to figure out which part of the combustion triangle (fuel, ignition, air) is getting disturbed.

Hope it helps a little bit.

 

[bryanwheat]

A badly functioning bov vented can cause the car to idle bad. You need to fix all the issues the car has and then see how it runs. It's kind of silly to run it with a bunch of issues and them wonder why it is running bad.

 

[Gsxhero]

how long has your bov been openly venting? when u hear the psh from the bov your engine squirts in fuel to compinsate for that extra air. when i vent mine that extra fuel makes the rpms low when the bov actuates. try recircuelating it. also does your turbo spin freely? you can also try pulling one plug wire at a time to make sure your firing on all cylinders. could be bad gas. timing jump maybe? or somthing as simple as a cracked hose or faulty sensor. sounds like multipal problems. good luck

 

[mantega4g63]

A badly functioning bov vented can cause the car to idle bad. You need to fix all the issues the car has and then see how it runs. It's kind of silly to run it with a bunch of issues and them wonder why it is running bad.

I know it's vented to the atmosphere
My car idled perfectly, and didn't almost cut off after boost before I went in and did my timing belt. Put timing back how it was and it idles lower than usual, and just inconsistent. I'm not wondering why it's running bad, because I know a bad turbo will affect that. I'm saying is this the only obvious root of my problems? because I don't have the means to get a turbo yet, just redid timing and motor mounts and ordered a cv axle so that's next friday. I know turbos can be rebuilt, this is an ebay 16g knockoff. Rebuilding a 14b soon. I was just making sure there was nothing else besides the simple stuff that I've already done before I go cracking into all kind of stuff.

My idle now is lopey, wasn't doing it before. So that's the biggest reason I posted this

 

[cavyracer666]

If you know you have these problems fix them first, then see if an issue still exists. i suggest pulling the plugs. while you have them out do a compresion check doesn't take long and can point out other possible issues. fact is could be something simple or something more severe causing this problem i.e. injector leaking as well as coolant leaking into the cylinders from blown head gasket can both cause hard/rough start in morning.

 

[mantega4g63]

If you know you have these problems fix them first, then see if an issue still exists. i suggest pulling the plugs. while you have them out do a compresion check doesn't take long and can point out other possible issues. fact is could be something simple or something more severe causing this problem i.e. injector leaking as well as coolant leaking into the cylinders from blown head gasket can both cause hard/rough start in morning.

Compression is 170 across the board, gapped the plugs when I pulled them for the compression test. Just redid all hoses that water flows through and oem water pump, my cooling system is immaculate


I know I should fix these problems, but if i had the means to just wake up, by a turbo, intercooler piping, and a bov, then I wouldn't be posting this. I would be sleeping so I could wake up and buy all of these nice things. Going to buy them all at once. No point in getting a turbo if it's going to spool itself to death from my boost leak and faulty bov

 

[cavyracer666]

hows fuel pressure key on engine off? where's the boost leak? any way you can patch it? like a coupler from local parts or hardware store?

 

[Fehrion_sit]

does JusMX141 balance the turbos after rebuild? im going to rebuild mine if i cant find anywhere to do it.

suggestions?

 

[Mickey6]

does JusMX141 balance the turbos after rebuild? im going to rebuild mine if i cant find anywhere to do it.

suggestions?

I can't answer for his business in that aspect of rebuilds. What I can tell you is that he is an excellent person to work with, always answers questions quickly, and is full of vast amounts of knowledge. Not to mention his work is above standards and I have had no issues or have ever heard of any issues with his rebuilds. Shoot him a message and explain what you want done is the best advice I can give.

You technically don't have to balance the rotating assembly if you mark off the position of the turbine blade and compressor blade on the shaft, re-install them on the shaft in the same position as removed, and as long as you don't change any dynamics of the rotating assembly such as changing the weight. Its balanced as an assembly.

 

[bryanwheat]

You mentioned that you messed with the timing and now it doesn't idle well. I would double check the timing marks to verity that it is in time, fix the boost leak, fix the turbo or replace it, and recirculate the bov. You also said that your car was idling at 1000 before. It should idle at around 750.

 

[Mickey6]

I know it's vented to the atmosphere
My car idled perfectly, and didn't almost cut off after boost before I went in and did my timing belt. Put timing back how it was and it idles lower than usual, and just inconsistent. I'm not wondering why it's running bad, because I know a bad turbo will affect that. I'm saying is this the only obvious root of my problems? because I don't have the means to get a turbo yet, just redid timing and motor mounts and ordered a cv axle so that's next friday. I know turbos can be rebuilt, this is an ebay 16g knockoff. Rebuilding a 14b soon. I was just making sure there was nothing else besides the simple stuff that I've already done before I go cracking into all kind of stuff.

My idle now is lopey, wasn't doing it before. So that's the biggest reason I posted this

You can't really have an obvious reason unless you eliminate all the easy things and then focus on the problem if it still exists. Also if the BOV vents to the atmosphere the car might stutter a bit in between shifts, but it wouldn't affect it at idle b/c the BOV is closed to the atmosphere.

Did you re-time the cam angle sensor with a timing light and make sure when you put the belt on that the cams and crank were in the correct position? Just the slightest degree off can cause idle issues

 

[bryanwheat]

it wouldn't affect it at idle b/c the BOV is closed to the atmosphere.

It depends on the bov and how it is adjusted. The stock bov, and aftermarkets that are adjusted too loose will in fact be open at idle sucking in air.

 

[Gsxhero]

you could just go ghetto and tighten the throttle cable if you have to drive it tell you can get a new bov and turbo . i beleive the only way to properly vent the bov is to use engine managment and or a gm maf. gm maf can be used after the bov. if u vent it becuase u like the sound and cant afford a gm maf maybe try using hard crome sink piping from the hardware store so u can still hear it. its about the same size piping as the stock rubber. fact is venting it as mentioned above causes it to run rich at the moment of bov actuation thus causing low idle when fisrt let off the throttle after boost as u mentioned was one of your issues.

 

[Mickey6]

It depends on the bov and how it is adjusted. The stock bov, and aftermarkets that are adjusted too loose will in fact be open at idle sucking in air.

Touche' sir. Just assumed that everything was set correctly in his case, but with it being an ebay BOV.....prob not the case.

 

[mantega4g63]

Boost leak is a messed up intercooler pipe, its from the same crappy ebay turbo . Getting a vr fmic, greddy type s (recirculated of course) and 14b. Also going to rewire my fuel pump, apexi intake and buscher heat shield so i cant imagine what else could go wrong thus far

 

[cavyracer666]

if none of that fixes it i would listen to bryanwheat post #11 i think if it worked differently once you redid the timing belt thats where I would start . best of luck sir

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

You mentioned that you messed with the timing and now it doesn't idle well. I would double check the timing marks to verity that it is in time, fix the boost leak, fix the turbo or replace it, and recirculate the bov. You also said that your car was idling at 1000 before. It should idle at around 750.

This is what,i was thinking. Everything you said was fine and dandy till you changed your timing belt. Sounds like, your off a, tooth to me. Check your timing.

 

[mantega4g63]

This is what,i was thinking. Everything you said was fine and dandy till you changed your timing belt. Sounds like, your off a, tooth to me. Check your timing.

It is EXACTLY back on how i took it off, i've already rotated by hand and nothing touched. It is not in spec with the haynes manual, the crankshaft key was/is one tooth off it seems but that's how it was running before, didn't want to change how shit was unless I was sure. I'll get ahold of a timing light though, this has been a concern in the back of my head since it happened

This is what,i was thinking. Everything you said was fine and dandy till you changed your timing belt. Sounds like, your off a, tooth to me. Check your timing.

It's just the idle wasn't as rough but then again I did install prothane roll stops when I did my timing

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

It is EXACTLY back on how i took it off, i've already rotated by hand and nothing touched. It is not in spec with the haynes manual, the crankshaft key was/is one tooth off it seems but that's how it was running before, didn't want to change how shit was unless I was sure. I'll get ahold of a timing light though, this has been a concern in the back of my head since it happened




It's just the idle wasn't as rough but then again I did install prothane roll stops when I did my timing

Your timing can be off and you still not hit anything. Don't put it as it was, put it how it should be. line every time mark up like it should be and make sure everything is straight after two complete rotations. (did you change the balance shaft belt with the t belt?)

The harder your mounts are the rougher the idle will be but that won't cause rpm droppage when you push in the clutch. Boost/vacuum leak can cause this. I would recir bov and it may solve this.

Also if your oil pressure idiot light is coming on at 500 rpms That seems like your oil pressure is low. I used to have this problem sometimes revs, would drop down to 100 and my light wouldn't come on till around that low though I do have a low mileage engine. Under 20k.