The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Rix Racing
Please Support Morrison Fabrication

Cost to build a mild 1g head

carl5463729

Proven Member
169
3
Jul 21, 2004
Lancaster, New_York
I have a 90 gsx right now but over winter i'm taking my motor out and throwing it into a mint 92 tsi shell. I work at burger king so i don't really have a whole lot of money. I do have a head sitting in my basement. I wanted to atleast put a good set of cams in the head and i need to have the head hot tanked and stuff. I was just wondering what would be a good company to buy the head stuff from (springs, retainers, valves, etc...). should i buy everything new or what. If anyone has info on what they did to thier head and the cost that would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 

carl5463729

Proven Member
169
3
Jul 21, 2004
Lancaster, New_York
Is it cheaper just to go to a place like slowboy to get the work done. If so where would you guys recommend
 

diambo4life

20+ Year Contributor
1,336
130
Apr 18, 2002
Edmond, Oklahoma
If money is an issue, leave the head alone; Bone stock. Pick up a set of cams and you are good. ;)


..
..


..

My time there <----- was done on a stock 1g head (+ 272's) and the stock intake manifold at only 26-27psi. Other people have run MUCH faster. I know a few guys who have made mid 600's whp on the stock head. Do not underestimate it's ability.
 

Caithness

Proven Member
342
1
Nov 2, 2003
Tampa, Florida
Assuming it's a good condition stock head, some 3g lifters just to prevent tick, and some FP cams. I see you've already got the lifters. If you plan to stick with your 16g get the FP1s, if you plan to upgrade get the FP2s.
 

carl5463729

Proven Member
169
3
Jul 21, 2004
Lancaster, New_York
Right now this is an estimate that i got from a shop down the street from me. They are a very reputable dsm shop in my area.

So for the basics you wanted:
$70 machining
$210 labor
$429 ish FP2 Camshafts
$142 Valvesprings
$150 Retainers
$30 Valve Seals
---------------
$1031 total

If you wanted in include valves in this (we recommend it)
Add $195 for the set of valves
Add $180 cutting valve seats

for total built head:$1406

You can add a set of ARP Headstuds and a Cometic Headgasket (recommended for any DSM running higher than stock boost) $160.
 

diambo4life

20+ Year Contributor
1,336
130
Apr 18, 2002
Edmond, Oklahoma
carl5463729 said:
Right now this is an estimate that i got from a shop down the street from me. They are a very reputable dsm shop in my area.

So for the basics you wanted:
$70 machining
$210 labor
$429 ish FP2 Camshafts
$142 Valvesprings
$150 Retainers
$30 Valve Seals
---------------
$1031 total

If you wanted in include valves in this (we recommend it)
Add $195 for the set of valves
Add $180 cutting valve seats

for total built head:$1406

You can add a set of ARP Headstuds and a Cometic Headgasket (recommended for any DSM running higher than stock boost) $160.

As I said earlier, just have your head resurfaced & refreshed aka valve job and checked to make sure it's in overall good shape and get a set of cams eg 264s, 272's, FP1s, FP2's whatever. If there are bent valves, broken guides etc have them replaced. You do NOT need to do anything else if your goals are modest.

You can use the stock valvetrain - no problem. Also, whoever told you that you need to (or recommended) that you should run an MLS gasket & ARPs if running higher than stock boost needs to get their head examined. Spend your $$ where it matters. You said the mod piggy bank isn't big, use what you have wisely.

I don't mean to sound like a jerk but I get upset when I see people doing things they don't have to do otherwise & waste $$ in the long run.
 

carl5463729

Proven Member
169
3
Jul 21, 2004
Lancaster, New_York
That's why i ask you guys, so you don't get mad. Thanks for your concern, if you know any where else i should go or think that i should do then tell me. Thanks
 

SlowboyCSE

Proven Member
200
2
Dec 6, 2002
Indiana, Pennsylvania
Doesn't hurt to put stainless steel valves in it unless your not going to lean on it with timing:)
 

bullettdsm

N/T DSM Wiseman
DSM Wiseman
2,609
34
Dec 17, 2004
East Hampton, Connecticut
diambo4life said:
As I said earlier, just have your head resurfaced & refreshed aka valve job and checked to make sure it's in overall good shape and get a set of cams eg 264s, 272's, FP1s, FP2's whatever. If there are bent valves, broken guides etc have them replaced. You do NOT need to do anything else if your goals are modest.

You can use the stock valvetrain - no problem. Also, whoever told you that you need to (or recommended) that you should run an MLS gasket & ARPs if running higher than stock boost needs to get their head examined. Spend your $$ where it matters. You said the mod piggy bank isn't big, use what you have wisely.

I don't mean to sound like a jerk but I get upset when I see people doing things they don't have to do otherwise & waste $$ in the long run.

Could not agree more! I hate when people want to spend someone else's money. Especially if it is someone on a pretty low budget. Springs, retainers, etc.; skip 'em. Might have to deck the head (if necessary). If you do have to buy some valves, only at that point would I reccomend stainless. But only if you have to get valves.
You can live without the ARP's if you aren't going hog wild. The MLS without big boost would be just insurance. Weigh the costs of other HG's.

MB
 

groundPork

Proven Member
138
6
Feb 23, 2006
Lowcash, California
SlowboyCSE said:
Doesn't hurt to put stainless steel valves in it unless your not going to lean on it with timing:)


That's interesting that you say that. I used to work in machine shops and build motors. I have always found your typical inexpensive Stainless (ie Si valves, crower, manley) to be not nearly as hard as the OEM mitsus. This is basically what I have been tought, what I've known to be true, and I feel I have been seeing all these years. I am not trying to press you on this just asking for another side of the story or maybe another view... your opinion. I can't see upgrading for any other reason than to get a bigger head diameter.

I know you guys have a fully equipped and high tech machine shop, and could make just about anything work, but one thing I've noticed is that most of the time on aftermakret stainless stuff the margines are usually a lot thicker on the exhasut especailly wi=hich is good, but the overall lengths of the valves are the same. I haven't had teh chance to verify more than three times, but I have seen the installed heights of teh springs shrink as much as .045" on some of the vavles which tells me the keeper grooves are being machined in the same spot, but the seat faces are being machined higher up on the valve. I see this more with oversized valves too.
Also I've noticed many manufacturers do not use hardened or stelite tips on smaller stemmed valves. That's why I liked the super techs and Ferreas so much.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Top