correction really high on low trim with 550's?

[jim90TSi]

OK guys i finally got the hint on working the safc with the logger. I'm in a bit of a stump though. I thought i had my car tuned in on low fuel trim at around 12% correction across the boards......this was giving me pretty good percentage (mid-high 90's). So i go back out and star messing with the car, drive it to get a log on it to see what happens. Next thin i know my low fuel trim is at 118.7%. I'm like wtf, so I'm messing around and i took the correction up to 23% and it finally settled down around 100%. I have 550's in my 1g running 18 psi, any idea why i have to use to much correction, that varies, to get a smooth fuel trim. I read a good starting correction for injectors my size, is -10%. Why am i way up in the (+) range toward 20% correction? What would cause this?

would also like to add. im not getting a cel light but i disconnected my battery earlier to reset my fuel trims and im getting a code 12 ( MAF)

 

[jim90TSi]

I'd recommend getting at least a FP gauge to make sure your pressure is up to snuff after all the new parts. Then if something is funky you can do an AFPR.

Any idea where to hook one up aside from drilling and tapping the filter screw?

 

[weith1111]

Too lazy to find it, but look on SBR or something, I got a B&M gauge (came free with the AFPR) that just screws right into the top of the filter. Lots of folks do that. Quick and easy, there is a bolt in the top of the filter, pop that sucker out and replace with an L adapter, which the gauge screws into. Bah, ok I'm nice enough...
http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=1191&

 

[jim90TSi]

which afpr did you go with? There are quite a few out there, and an opinion woulld help

 

[weith1111]

I went with the Buschur bolt on. Took 10 minutes tops. Some people say $275 is nuts, but they spend $150 on the FPR, $50 on lines and adapters, $30 on a gauge, who knows what on gas driving back and forth to the hardware store. For me, it was worth the extra $50 to save the time and frustration. I have no other way to get around, and it's almost impossible to have *everything* you need for an install, unless you get something truly bolt on like the Buschur.

my .02

I need to get some pics, my photos are when the car was stock I think eek.

 

[jim90TSi]

I went with the Buschur bolt on. Took 10 minutes tops. Some people say $275 is nuts, but they spend $150 on the FPR, $50 on lines and adapters, $30 on a gauge, who knows what on gas driving back and forth to the hardware store. For me, it was worth the extra $50 to save the time and frustration. I have no other way to get around, and it's almost impossible to have *everything* you need for an install, unless you get something truly bolt on like the Buschur.

my .02

I need to get some pics, my photos are when the car was stock I think eek.

Looks like a nice kit, if i were to but a afpr and then a gauge, it would add up to a little over 200 anyway. just going to take a few more days to save up.

Also weith, the supra pump you are running, how many lph does it flow. i found a good deal on a walbro 255, but then i need to get a afpr right away

 

[steve]

The supra pump you are running, how many lph does it flow. i found a good deal on a walbro 255, but then i need to get a afpr right away

The Supra pump is on par with the Walbro 255. They have there own unique strengths and weaknesses and both require a AFPR.

Steve

 

[jim90TSi]

Would a 190 pump be ok with evo injectors set to 20psi race and 15daily?

Also My o2 readings intermittently zero out at idle. When I'm cruising they are ok, and sometimes on idle it searches and sometimes on idle it just lays lean (0.00v)

 

[jim90TSi]

ok everyone helping me out i did a little maintinence today and found my ngk's ( bpr7es) to be gapped around .040", how would that be affecting my car, seemed to run great, seemed like it hit boost cut when it was cold. Anyway, i replaced them with bpr6es's gapped at .028". Seems like it runs a little smoother. Another problem i am experiencing is that my o2 reads 0.00v sometimes at idle, i understand this could be from a missing silencer in the maf?(cardboard star), if so mine is gone, but maf is unhacked. Also, when i start the car after a little drive, say to go get food, and i come back out from wendys and start my car and its idle at 500-600 rpm unless i hold the gas for a few seconds and it will settle to around 750.

New o2, cts, plugs, wires are 8.5 magnecore, 5* timing......Im thinking maybe the idle might be from the one bastard injector and bad o ring, possible?

 

[weith1111]

Hmm, I won't even venture down this road with you anymore until you get all the proper seals on the injectors (and either get the injectors tested or replace them). There is no doubt they are messing with things. And if your o2 sensor has more than 60-70k on it, I'd replace it to rule it out, you shouldn't be seeing 0v.

Have you set your idle correctly? Check the TPS, ISC, and set with the BISS. Check www.plymouthlaser.com or any of 50 other places for how to do all that. Reply back when you have replaced what you know is no good. No sense searching for more busted things until the others are taken care of.

 

[jim90TSi]

. And if your o2 sensor has more than 60-70k on it, I'd replace it to rule it out, you shouldn't be seeing 0v.
Have you set your idle correctly? Check the TPS, ISC, and set with the BISS. Check www.plymouthlaser.com or any of 50 other places for how to do all that. Reply back when you have replaced what you know is no good. No sense searching for more busted things until the others are taken care of.

New o2 like i said.......and the tps and isc are set, and working well.

 

[weith1111]

I see. What is "cts?"

Still, you need to get the injectors thing taken care of.

The o2 sensor will not show 0v because of the silencer being gone. Does the voltage stay at zero, like for seconds or longer? If so, dysfunc o2 sensor??? I don't know.

 

[jim90TSi]

coolant temp sensor, and all my injectors ohm out at 15.6 ohms. The o2 reads dead on occasion............seems fine right now.

this is what i misread from the vfaq.......

"Also, if you have removed the lower honeycomb from your MAS, your oxygen sensor reading at idle will likely drop to zero (or almost zero) at idle. This is a common side-effect of removing the lower honeycomb, and does not represent a problem. This effect is only affects O2 sensor readings at idle, and will not change the sensor or car behavior while cruising or while accelerating. "

 

[weith1111]

Gotcha, moving forward, injectors. One doesn't even have the pintle cap, replacing the seals will help, but until you have, fresh working and COMPLETE injectors in there, will you ever be positive they aren't part or all of your problem?

 

[92GSXBaltimore]

is the grounding strap on the downpipe still connected and in good shape?

p.s. replace those injector and seals ASAP!! an engine fire would suck

 

[jim90TSi]

is the grounding strap on the downpipe still connected and in good shape?

p.s. replace those injector and seals ASAP!! an engine fire would suck

no the ground strap is not connected to the downpipe.

Weith...........i have some evo 8 injectors on the way with a whole seal kit

 

[92GSXBaltimore]

That is at least some of your prob, if not all of it(not that you still dont need to get new injector o-rings and end caps for the injectors).

The grounding strap to your downpipe is a ground cable for your o2 sensor, without it some people have not been able to go above .84 volts no matter how much fuel they add.

 

[weith1111]

That is at least some of your prob, if not all of it(not that you still dont need to get new injector o-rings and end caps for the injectors).

The grounding strap to your downpipe is a ground cable for your o2 sensor, without it some people have not been able to go above .84 volts no matter how much fuel they add.

I have no grounding strap, and honestly have no idea what you are talking about. Does anyone with an aftermarket downpipe have one? Where does it go to/from (exactly)? I don't have a problem hitting .94v