copper spray gaskets [Merged 6-9]

[Spoolin98]

You get a machinists rule and measure across the surface with feeler gauges. You measure 3 ways, across the center lengthwise, and then across corner to diagnal corner so you wind up making an X with a line down the middle. You do the same with the head to check it.

Steve

Hey Steve, any idea as to where I can find a machinists ruler?

 

[my_gst95]

Rebuilding a 2.0 and ordered OEM gaskets from extremepsi. I've put light RTV or gasket spray on gaskets before just to make sure they seal, but I wonder if thats really neccissary? I just don't want the front case or the rear main to leak for obvious reasons.

 

[GVR4592]

You shouldn't have to coat a gasket with gasket sealer or RTV to make it work. The only place I use RTV is on the half circle cam seal.

 

[ivanr4g63]

ARP head studs (if not already) are what you need to make most head gasket seals.

OEM head gasket needs no spraying or silicone to work right, just the right amount of torque and the right sequense to hold it in place under boost.

Been running ARP head studs and OEM gaskets with no probs to this day, then again I only have an EvoIII 16G, but seen good results on turbos as big as 57trim.

 

[compression]

he meant gaskets in general not just the headgasket, and i see no harm and spraying a little sealant to insure no leakage on all of your gaskets but not totally nessesary.

 

[my_gst95]

If you ever tear it down, you'll kick yourself in the ass because of the sealant. The 2nd time around I didn't use any sealant at all except on the HG.

Spending hours with a wire wheel and razor blade, just isn't my thing at all.

Yeah if a good amount of people had success with a rebuild without having to use gasket spray/RTV, I'm going to give it a shot. Torque everything to spec and keep my fingers crossed ...though I still like to use spray on the OE Headgasket with the ARPS no matter what...you can never be too sure.

 

[4SFED4]

In my experiance OEM gaskets have the best seal and most shouldn't need any type of sealant.

I use Permatex Ultra Grey on the oil pan(no gasket) and some on the valve cover gasket.
I use Copper Coat on the exhaust manifold gasket(SCE copper), intake manifold gasket(OEM metal) and metal or copper(except Titan) head gaskets.

The OEM intake gaskets will seal with no sealant on the first use, but I reuse mine. Found the same to be true of the SCE exhaust gaskets after a reusing them a few times.

 

[Enraged78]

Rebuilding a 2.0 and ordered OEM gaskets from extremepsi. I've put light RTV or gasket spray on gaskets before just to make sure they seal, but I wonder if thats really neccissary? I just don't want the front case or the rear main to leak for obvious reasons.

RTV is an option on SOME gaskets, like water pump, thermostat housing, etc. Do NOT use copper spray or rtv on your Cam, rear main, or front case seals. Copper spray will act like sandpaper on these seals, and may actually destroy your crank or cam if you go this route. RTV can become dislodged and work it's way into your oiling system, possibly plugging up a galley.

Seals are stationary, cams and cranks are not. I have personally seen engines dissasembled where a rear main seal has eaten it's way into a crankshaft (this was on a GM 350). Stay with what the factory does. As long as you take the time to install the seals properly, you will be fine.

Matt.

 

[Calan]

Back from the dead...

Any other opinions on this subject? I'd rather just use dry OEM gaskets, but I'm worried about leaks. My car leaks like a spaghetti strainer; which is mainly why I'm doing the following:

I'm getting ready to replace front/rear case, seals, oil filter housing, t-stat housing, cam seals, CAS O-ring, dipstick O-ring, oil pan... basically every gasket and seal I can get to, short of pulling out what little of my block is still assembled

The previous owner had a rebuild done only 15-20k ago... I don't know who's at fault, but the motor's got black RTV, burnt gaskets, and oil leaks out the wazoo. So while the tranny's out for a rebuild, I'm tearing everything off I can get to for cleaning and new gaskets.

 

[sprfunk]

Hey, I have a exhaust leak and I think it may be the gasket between the O2 sensor and the DP. Would you spray it with copper or do something else to be sure of a good seal?

 

[Boost92awd]

Why wouldnt you just buy a new gasket? There only a couple bucks.

 

[sprfunk]

Sorry for the confusion. I mean, since I am buying a new gasket would you copper coat it to be sure of a good seal, or would you just install it? I heard that the copper spray can help avoid leaks.

 

[chicagoavenger]

I used it on everything and haven't had any leaks when added with a gasket. It may be overkill but it's sealed shut and it's one less thing I have to worry about.

 

[hereitcomes]

I hi-tak a head gasket every one Ive had on my car and no problems. For exhaust I would use a new gasket and copper sealant. Make sure everything is good and tight and you should be good for a while.

 

[crimsondragon]

Copper RTV is only rated up to 700* F. On average, the exhaust gases get as hot as 800-900*F. Someone said they used copper RTV and it melted like butter.

 

[Defiant]

RTV's not the same as copper spray. I don't know what copper spray's rating is, nor what kind of peaks are reached inside an exhaust seal.

I use copper spray on most gaskets. The guys teaching me to build motors did, and I've never been shown an experience nor a reason not to.

 

[Jst4Cyl]

I just purchased a can so I can check it out in the mourning (a few hours from now). Blcknspo0ln has done some great tech articles in which I know he used it on his build ( found here ) and so I thought I'd use it on my build. Hope this helps.

 

[Splitpi]

Don't get any on the O2 sensor .

 

[crimsondragon]

RTV's not the same as copper spray. I don't know what copper spray's rating is, nor what kind of peaks are reached inside an exhaust seal.

I use copper spray on most gaskets. The guys teaching me to build motors did, and I've never been shown an experience nor a reason not to.

Ah I thought they were generally all the same. I might just have to go and pick myself up a can then.

 

[TrAb]

On my current car i used the stock gasket and put this exhaust cement i think it was called on both sides. When it dry's its hard and white, sealed up leaks great...

EDIT: its called muffler mender...

 

[Splitpi]

I probably went a little over kill when I replaced my T25 with a 16G, but I went with all new Exhaust Manifold - Head Copper Gasket from FFWD and Exhaust Manifold - Turbo Copper Gasket. No leaks. I did spray that copper spray on them as though. Link... Ya it was a little more money, but not a a considerable sum.

 

[whiteAWD]

what seems to work better spraying the gasket on both sides or spraying the sealing surfaces?

 

[kicker91laser]

what seems to work better spraying the gasket on both sides or spraying the sealing surfaces?

Both sides

 

[IceMinion]

Copper spray is amazing, I had to pull the crank on an engine of mine.

The front case gasket was TORN IN HALF upon removal, thats how sticky this stuff is, needless to say I had no leaks. I use it for every paper gasket now.

Mitsubishi did not use copper spray when these engines were new, but now, almost 20 years later, the metal is pitted, warped and scratched.

I have never had a problem with copper-coat, and I have never used too much, however I guess it would be possible to use "too much"

 

[whiteAWD]

THESE FORUMS HELP BUT MAKE ME SO APREHENSIVE SOMETIMES,

i have done 4 dsm motor builds without copper coat. i now have another apart and it is a slightly used built bottom end and a used(low miles) cylinder head. i was just gonna slap ARP's and a MLS on it and be done. now im second guessing myself. to copper coat or not?? also people say that without "perfectly machined surfaces on both the block and head it will never seal since when. i have never had issues. this sucks im getting flustered i hate doing things twice!!!!