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Cooling temps and Voltage

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Ppayer38

10+ Year Contributor
317
3
Jul 1, 2009
Smithfield, Virginia
Well ive got a few questions im hoping I can get some help with

1. What should I log in EvoScan when logging Coolant temps? Coolant Temp(10-15 deg hotter then CTS) or Coolant Temp Scaled/CTS

2. What should my coolant temps be? In Coolant Temp Scaled(what ive read you should log) my temps are 181-185 while cruising and 195 is the highest ive seen while idling for 10-15mins with no front bumper cover

3. What should my IAT's be? Driving home tonight with 78-80deg outside temp(Smokey from fires and humide) they were 92-96deg while driving 60-65mph

4. How much will the bumper cover effect my IAT's and Coolant Temps? Not sure if im going to run a 2gb Eclipse or a 2gb Talon front bumper cover

5. I drove home tonight and my car randumly threw a PO1500/PO0300 Randum/Multiple cylinder misfire, could low voltage cause this? I was logging luckly and saw my voltage had droped to 10.8-11.2(enough to where when I cleared the code it turned over slowly) and I believe it is cause the plug on the alternator wiggled loose cause I check all plugs to do with spark,fuel and the alternator plug and then voltage went up(12.5) when I got back on the road and the code never came back.

6.What should my voltage be while cruising? Mine is 12.4-12.6(seems low so I see a new alternator coming soon) but I figured id ask cause sometimes DSM's have there own way of doing things haha.

Sorry if this is the wrong forum but didnt want to make multiple threads at 1 time and this seemed like a good section to answer everything. :thumb:
 
You running without a bumper cover is like running without a hood..It will make a big difference..
 
You would tell me the 1 thing I didn't wanna hear haha hopefully I can keep temps below 200 still...

Still looking for some answers on the other things though
 
Scaled for the temps. Both coolant and air.

Also, where is the IAT mounted? Running MAF or SD?
 
The voltage should be higher when driving. 13-14.7ish. Check the power cables, and belt on the alt first.
 
The only wire that isn't good and correct is a wire that is slip on like the coant temp sensor but it goes to the alternator and the piece its slips onto is broke so yeah...

Any idea what that wire does?
 
Wait, a wire goes from the coolant temp sensor directly to the alt??
 
There are two connectors on the alt. A 4 wire connector and a 2 wire connector with a ring terminal. If either is loose or not connected your going to have problems.
 
1. What should I log in EvoScan when logging Coolant temps? Coolant Temp(10-15 deg hotter then CTS) or Coolant Temp Scaled/CTS

2. What should my coolant temps be? In Coolant Temp Scaled(what ive read you should log) my temps are 181-185 while cruising and 195 is the highest ive seen while idling for 10-15mins with no front bumper cover.
I'm not familiar with Evo Scan so I can't give you an answer.
3. What should my IAT's be? Driving home tonight with 78-80deg outside temp(Smokey from fires and humide) they were 92-96deg while driving 60-65mph.
It depends on a few things, one of the biggest is the temperature outside and the next is how hard you're driving your car. Like Chris said, where is your IAT at? Is it a separate sensor in your IC piping or are the IAT readings coming from the stock MAF?
4. How much will the bumper cover effect my IAT's and Coolant Temps? Not sure if im going to run a 2gb Eclipse or a 2gb Talon front bumper cover.
The bumper cover won't do much for IAT's but it will lower your coolant temps at cruising speeds. I noticed lower coolant temps running my 2gb Talon bumper than I do with my 2gb Eclipse bumper, its only about 4* though. I haven't been able to get a set of 2g Talon headlights to prove it but I believe the lower coolant temps are from the gap between the headlight and the bumper.
5. I drove home tonight and my car randumly threw a PO1500/PO0300 Randum/Multiple cylinder misfire, could low voltage cause this? I was logging luckly and saw my voltage had droped to 10.8-11.2(enough to where when I cleared the code it turned over slowly) and I believe it is cause the plug on the alternator wiggled loose cause I check all plugs to do with spark,fuel and the alternator plug and then voltage went up(12.5) when I got back on the road and the code never came back.
A failing alternator or a bad signal to the (4) pin connector going to it the alternator will throw the P1500 DTC. Whenever voltage drops it will usually toss a random cyl. misfire or injector malfunction code as well, at least in the cases I've seen.
6.What should my voltage be while cruising? Mine is 12.4-12.6(seems low so I see a new alternator coming soon) but I figured id ask cause sometimes DSM's have there own way of doing things haha.
13.5 - 14.1v cruising. I just replaced mine last week so its fresh in my head. :aha: The alternator I replaced was outputting 11.9 - 12.3v while I was driving and it failed on AZ's test bench so I got all my money back for the new one. Lifetime warranty. WOOT!
Sorry if this is the wrong forum but didnt want to make multiple threads at 1 time and this seemed like a good section to answer everything. :thumb:
I'll leave it in Bolt On because this is probably the best place for it anyway.

:dsm:
 
IAT's are are taken from the stock MAF so I'm sure it is not an accurate measurement but better than nothing...

I've heard don't use AZ or Advance alternators as they will give out easily but I guess with a lifetime warrenty it is had to pass up but ill check all my wires 1st

All of this has been a big help, I'm sure im over reacting but I'm being very careful for the time being as this car has only been on the road for 2 weeks with the new build... Wanna make sure I get all the bugs worked out before any WOT pulls are done
 
I go through an alternator in my DSM every 9 to 12 months, depends on if I've got significant downtime because its broke. ROFL I can't point fingers at the Duralast brand though because the location of our alternators puts them in the hottest spot in the engine bay, unless of course you relocate it to behind the motor. My alternator gets cooked even more so because its under my Tial 38mm coming off the o2 housing and sits about 2" away from my downpipe.

Its hot in there and alternators don't last long in the heat.

Since you're getting IAT readings from the stock MAF the more accurate label for that temperature reading would be "engine bay temps".

:dsm:
 
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