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Cooling Mist setup for EVO16G, $199 kit ok?

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The kit will work, you just need to do the research and find which nozzle suits your needs best. Don't let them choose one for you, no matter how easy that is. Do the research and really learn all you can about WI set-ups.

It is ok for you to keep your tank in the engine bay, BUT your water/meth will be much warmer from engine temps.

Have you looked into Coolingmists progressive controller? Looks like a very promising product, completely tunable and loggable :thumb: . My laptop will have DSMlink, WI progressive controller software, and wideband software on it. Thats going to make for a lot of tuning, but well worth it in the end. Good luck with whatever you do, but just research, research, research. Knowledge is power, and in this case horsepower :p
 
there are a few people running this and simialar kits i started a thread on dsmtalk and there were alot of good replies it was in the general tech section

this is also the kit im going with but i think i need alot bigger nozzle, im hoping for 420 whp
 
2deep said:
The kit will work, you just need to do the research and find which nozzle suits your needs best. Don't let them choose one for you, no matter how easy that is. Do the research and really learn all you can about WI set-ups.

It is ok for you to keep your tank in the engine bay, BUT your water/meth will be much warmer from engine temps.

Have you looked into Coolingmists progressive controller? Looks like a very promising product, completely tunable and loggable :thumb: . My laptop will have DSMlink, WI progressive controller software, and wideband software on it. Thats going to make for a lot of tuning, but well worth it in the end. Good luck with whatever you do, but just research, research, research. Knowledge is power, and in this case horsepower :p

Doesn't seem to be based off RPM, wouldn't that be the easiest? I don't get what they mean by pressure points.
 
truwarrior said:
Can this cheaper kit do Methanol/Water or just methanol?

These kits can spray whatever you put into the tank however, methanol isnt recommended. Methanol (or race alcohol), as an additive or otherwise, is not a practical choice because it is prone to pre-ignition, is not safe to handle and is not as easily attainable as its counterparts. It is extremely toxic and should be handled with rubber gloves in well ventilated areas only.

Denatured (ethanol) alcohol, typically 95%, is cheap and is available in paint, hardware, and Home Depot type stores in gallon containers for about $10.00. Isopropyl alcohol can also be used but it is often 30% or more water by content. Most people run somwhere around a 50/50 mixture of this with distilled water (tap water has impurities). A 50/50 ratio of alcohol to water strikes a good balance between the maximum anti-knock capability of water and maximum supplemental fuel.

Some people just run straight washer fulid. Although most contain some glycol and detergent (soaps and detergents are bad), most windshield washer fluids are up to 50% alcohol (ethanol, isopropanol) and work great. Be sure to read the label first.

truwarrior said:
Doesn't seem to be based off RPM, wouldn't that be the easiest? I don't get what they mean by pressure points.

RPM based isnt the best way to go because your manifold pressure isnt a constant with your rpm. Just because you are 4k rpm and cruising doesnt mean you are at 20psi of boost. Get what I mean? This way it only comes on when your boosting, not when you are just driving around.

Pressure points refers the the amount of pressure that is required to activate the injection system. Typically you set it to start spraying at 50% of your peak desired boost. If you are running 24psi, then you set it to start spraying at 12psi.

There are a ton of kits out there and they have alot of options available. Do your research before buying to make sure you get what you want/need.
 
ericbev said:
These kits can spray whatever you put into the tank however, methanol isnt recommended. Methanol, as an additive or otherwise, is not a practical choice because it is prone to pre-ignition, is not safe to handle and is not as easily attainable as its counterparts. It is extremely toxic and should be handled with rubber gloves in well ventilated areas only.

Denatured (ethanol) alcohol, typically 95%, is cheap and is available in paint, hardware, and Home Depot type stores in gallon containers for about $10.00. Isopropyl alcohol can also be used but it is often 30% or more water by content. Most people run somwhere around a 50/50 mixture of this with distilled water (tap water has impurities). A 50/50 ratio of alcohol to water strikes a good balance between the maximum anti-knock capability of water and maximum supplemental fuel.

Some people just run straight washer fulid. Although most contain some glycol and detergent (soaps and detergents are bad), most windshield washer fluids are up to 50% alcohol (ethanol, isopropanol) and work great. Be sure to read the label first.



RPM based isnt the best way to go because your manifold pressure isnt a constant with your rpm. Just because you are 4k rpm and cruising doesnt mean you are at 20psi of boost. Get what I mean?

Pressure points refers the the amount of pressure that is required to activate the injection system.

There are a ton of kits out there and they have alot of options available. Do your research before buying to make sure you get what you want/need.


Well I understand you need the pressure point to activate the system, but if you're flowing x amount of air per rev at 4000 rpms under WOT, I would think you'd need twice as much of water injected if yout at 8000rpms. Does the system vari the amount injected for that?
 
Your standard kit changes delivery rate by changing nozzle sizes and is a "on/off" system. The more expensive progressive controllers allow fully mapable, user defnied parameters. Although most still use manifold pressure as a trigger, some of the more advanced kits use MAF signals, MAP/RPM, and fuel injector pulse widths to allow for a much finer tune as well as increased driveability .
 
I have been looking into these kits recently and noticed that CoolingMist also sells a control unit with 10 pre-programmed maps. In addition, you can even hook it up to a computer and make your own custom programs for activating the injectors. Very very cool. I might try to get one by the end of the year, though not the custom controlling unit until I'm more familiar with the set-up.
 
logic said:
More information for you: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSM_water_injection/

Plenty of archives, pictures, part numbers, and nozzle sizing data in there, if you're good with the search button. :)

My friend lives in Aurora. :cool: I also use the above link for information.

This kit kicks ass. It comes at a cost though.

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/cp/806-009/806-009.html

It reads you injectors pulse width and creates it own map based you what water to fuel ratio you specify. Talk about nice.

MrBoxx said:
I have been looking into these kits recently

I have also been on a search and destroy misson latley to learn all I can about these systems. I plan on running one maybe this summer, but it will probably end up being next summer.
 
If you guys want, I can get a kit for $200 shipped to you. It's similar to the cooling mist system, but uses a solenoid instead of their check valve. IM or PM me if you want some details about it. It's not me that's selling it, but I know of a guy that sells them for $225 usually and may be able to put a GB together for you all.

(dunno if I'm allowed to do this?? If this is an improper advertisement, please let me know and I will delete the post)
 
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