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coolant temp?

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Lofty

15+ Year Contributor
4,250
43
Jul 27, 2008
Waukesha, Wisconsin
Alright, well I just replaced my Thermostat.

It was working great for a while, but now when I warm up my car it idles at 3 grand.
It only does this when It's very cold out (0 degrees)
I know about the ECT, but even when the temp gauge is past NOT, it still idles at 3 grand.

Yet, if I have this car in a garage, it won't idle at 3 grand, it will idle at normal 750.

What's going on?

Air lock in the radiator?

Bad coolant temp sensor?

I need help, this burns so much gas LOL

My coolant temp gauge works fine.
It used to do this, but it idled at 2grand (Normal)
So why is it at 3 all of a sudden?
 
No I mean, during its warm up, it idles at 2000, but when it hits the NOT mark it goes down.


And yeah, I'm so sick of this.

I've counted, it's been 2 weeks since the last thing went wrong.

Yeah. Fun.

I hate my life.

So any help?
 
Are your coolant hoses to the throttle body connected with no kinks?
 
Are your coolant hoses to the throttle body connected with no kinks?

Yes.

I stress that it runs right when it's been sitting in a heated garage for a while.

Is this the FIAV?

Think positive.
Did you happen to check your throttle body? Maybe TPS needs to be adjusted. How about fuel? Maybe invest in a fuel regulator.

Is there a guide on the TPS adjust?

Or is there just a way I can reset my ECU so it has to like idle like a champ again?

have you checked anything with like inlet temp, baro, maf anything that will read or adjust fuel/rpm by temp? if you said that it only does it in the cold and if its inside where its warm its ok... so that temp change has somthing to do with your problem..


I don't have anything to really check those things.

This is frustrating.

What kicks the idle down after it's warm?
The Isc?
 
Maybe the spring on the heated TB bleed is weak. i can't get my idle under 1700 without blocking the iac passage. did you turn in the idle screw?
 
I don't see how unplugging the ISC wll do anything other than turn on your CEL.
The FIAV is available as a new part: for $400. Even from aftermarket suppliers. Go to an online Mitsu dealer and get a whole new TB for $550, including new idle switch, ISC, TPS & FIAV. Plus a new throttle shaft bore. Way better deal. Or: Junkyard TB. You might get lucky
The ISC stays fully retracted (raised RPMs) when you start the car, but only for 15 seconds or so. I don't think the ISC is even capable of raising the rpms that far, providing that everything else is in spec.
Your car shouldn't idle at 2000rpm, even when it's -10*F. I've had access to my car since Feb '93, and I'm pretty sure I've never seen over 1800rpm.
Have you done the BISS procedure yet? You really have to start there., unless your throttle cable is actually holding the throttle open! We'll all feel stupid then.
It sounds like a datalogger would save you a lot of confusion.
I had a dealer diagnosis of a bad FIAV once. I eventually replaced the TB, but untill then, all it did was cause a slightly rough idle right before the engine hit normal temp. When I replaced the TB, I disassembled the old one, and you could see where coolant was leaking into the air by-pass passages.
If you clean your throttle body, DON'T let the cleaner go down the bypass holes! I think that's how I runed mine. I've seen vfaq's showing you to cover the holes with duct tape. So, no, don't try to clean the FIAV. Start with the BISS and throttle cable.
 
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