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coolant line blew when turned car off

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Alex Bland

10+ Year Contributor
666
3
Jul 2, 2008
Seabeck, Washington
Hey ive recently been having issues with my car only making 9psi. (no mbc) so i went to look for boost leaks and found all my injector insulators where leaking so i just changed them. Now i went to test drive my car and it was still doing the same old no boost in 1st little in 2nd and 9psi in 3ed+ then i got home and poped my hood and looked around with the car running to make sure all lines stayed in on the test drive. Witch they did. Turned the car off and as soon as i did my car made a weird sound and smoke came out. So after i got a little angry i went and looked and the coolant hose blew up, its the short hose that goes from the bottom on the cap to the big metal tube running behind the turbo..(dont know that actual name for it) was just woundering maybe my coolant temp sen is out? or maybe this just happend for some strange reason? im not sure any ideas?
 
It sounds like the coolant return or coolant feed line to the turbo either slipped off or completely split in one spot. Ive had this happen before with the lines that run from the heater core to the coolant neck, the problem is that the rubber gets old and starts to decay and after so many heating and cooling cycles any weak spot becomes a huge crack or split in the line, very common on these older cars. Just find another coolant line, replace it and refill your radiator, it shouldnt happen again.:thumb:
 
Nope =( maybe my turbo is just tired, i only have 2 boost leaks left biss screw and tb shaft seals and they are tiny. Oh if my engine isnt at tdc when i do a boost leak should i hear some leaking into vc and like a bubblish sound its hard to explain i tried to record it but it didnt come up on the vid.
 
All I have ever heard was the air pump in and then the leaks that I had. Mabey your turbo got hot with the coolant line issue. Resulting in the hotside cracking. I just a couple months back was having issues with boost and my hotside was cracked (common with 14b).
 
TB shaft seals caused my car to only hold around 11psi during a BLT (and around 9-11psi at WOT). They may seem small but can leak a ton of boost if they aren't right. Fixing the TB Seals allowed my intake to hold 20psi all day during a BLT! :hellyeah:
 
Thats some good news to hear sence i orderd it up already. im hoping it not that hard to change out eek =p after that ill do the biss and then i think my cars all done with boost leaks. anyone know if theres a way to test intercooler and/or the bov?
 
Put your Boost leak tester on your turbo intake...pressurize with 20psi, fix leaks, your a winner.

That will show you all the leaks you need to fix.

Hell, I made my BLT coupler fit over my MAF plate where my air filter goes, tested it there.
 
Put your Boost leak tester on your turbo intake...pressurize with 20psi, fix leaks, your a winner.

That will show you all the leaks you need to fix.

Hell, I made my BLT coupler fit over my MAF plate where my air filter goes, tested it there.

That is a wrong place to do a BLT. The valve cover breather hoses need to be out of the system in order for the test to work. You need to start at the turbo inlet or the throttle body elbow for an effective BLT.

I start at the throttle body elbow to fix any vac leaks or boost leaks. Those are the ones that will mess up your idle and whatnot. After those are gone I do a BLT at the turbo inlet and fix all the BOV or coupler leaks. I don't cap my PCV valve anymore as I have a US Plastics check valve and it never leaks at the PCV anymore because of this. But you should cap off your PCV line as the PCV valves are known to leak at high pressures.
 
That is a wrong place to do a BLT. The valve cover breather hoses need to be out of the system in order for the test to work. You need to start at the turbo inlet or the throttle body elbow for an effective BLT.

I start at the throttle body elbow to fix any vac leaks or boost leaks. Those are the ones that will mess up your idle and whatnot. After those are gone I do a BLT at the turbo inlet and fix all the BOV or coupler leaks. I don't cap my PCV valve anymore as I have a US Plastics check valve and it never leaks at the PCV anymore because of this. But you should cap off your PCV line as the PCV valves are known to leak at high pressures.

Yeah my pcv leaks at higher pressure, should my bov rec have air coming out? at about 20psi? or is that not normal. im not sure how to check smic, i might take it off and block one hole and pressurize from the other
 
If your BOV is leaking at 20 psi then you need to either crush your BOV to hold more boost or do the dodge garage mod to it.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...dsm-bov-leak-stop-kit-dejon-tool-install.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-turbo-system-intercooler/220909-1g-bov-101-mods.html

Those two links will help you stop your BOV from leaking. As for your SMIC. Leave it connected in the system. You can do it individually if you wish but its easier just to do everything as a system. Now might be a good time to take it out and clean your SMIC really good with gasoline or alcohol.

As for the PCV valve leaking.... you should get one of these...
Check Valves | U.S. Plastic Corp.

I hated the OEM PCV valves on my older talon because no matter what they always leaked. This stopped the leaking all together. Just leave your stock PCV valve in and put this between the PCV and the intake manifold. A catch can in between the two valves will help keep the nasty crap out of your new valve.
 
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