gixrman
20+ Year Contributor
- 1,997
- 17
- Nov 13, 2002
-
Frederick,
Maryland
Hmm.. aluminum rods for a BC 2.6 stroker might be interesting.
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Right. I'm not negating the benefit of a longer rod. But just that if you really want more stroke, make the most of it.
Hmm.. aluminum rods for a BC 2.6 stroker might be interesting.

yupYour example also explains why a lighter (and stronger) crank is optimal in a stroker.
Those rods would have to be ENORMOUS
Freerevving said:how about titanium connecting rods?
Crower Cams & Equipment - Mitsubishi - Connecting Rods (read fine print, $477/rod for titanium)
Introducing Pauter Titanium Rods
I agree that with today's available grades of aluminum and forging techniques, that aluminum can be used effectively for connecting rods.
Freerevving said:Good choice on the Mahles, LMK if you get confused on clearance (like everyone, including myself did). It's pretty simple but they don't clearly provide the information. In fact, they provide some misinformation... So did one of the Mahle techs.
but I cut through all of the confusion and I have the bare truth on the clearance, confirmed by everyone I've cross-referenced and the techs at Mahle.
dsm-onster said:Holy he!! The tensile force on a 2.0l motor is the same at 8K as a 2.4 at 7.3K; same weight pistons (same wristpin height) and same rods. A stroker can get away with 400rpms more than a 2.4 motor because of only 45grams less weight at the piston because of the taller wristpin height. . . 122grams less weight vs. decent steel rods? Wow! You can rev higher with a stroker than a built 2.0L.

... 896 grams less weight between the four cylinders.
... that's a lot. damn that's exactly 2 pounds... that's a lot.
what about the crank, what are you using for a crank? taking 112 grams off per cylinder on a forged crank would save you 1 more pound... if the total wieght reduction is 224grams/cylinder on the crank you would have a 4 pound reduction inside. Of course, the reciprocating mass is a lil different, but being lightweight and strong will relieve stress on the rods, and help more of the power to be absorbed outside of the engine.
If funds permit: FFWD Connection - Race Injuns That Will Freeze Your Brain
From their site, "As if that was not enough, and feeling a little sassy, we can lighten the 6 bolt crank by an incredible 7-8 pounds which results in even quicker revs and increased horsepower by eliminating that extra rotating weight. Now, I know what you're thinking but don't sweat it...our lightening procedure does NOT hinder its reliability nor its function. In other words, GO POUND ON IT! Couple that with an aluminum flywheel and rods, and you're talking about a motor that will rev as quickly as a crotch rocket."

Yeah I saw that too but I think I might just go eagle on the crank as the price a durability are proven and give me a little more piece of mind. 7-8 pounds is a lot though. I wonder how much they would charge to do the proceudre to a crank if you sent it in. Imagine a forged crank with that done to it
It's $550 if you send your crank to them.

I believe the MGP's need to be grounded down on the big end. People who have used them told me that they needed to shave the actual rod down on the MGP's because they were way to big. I think they had to contact mgp about it and actually find out how much they could remove but they told me they were going to redesign it and come out with a different one that required little to no grinding.
You are probably talking about when the rod cap is too big. The mains are the part that should be ground down, not the rod cap.
There was a topic on another forum and they had to grind down there rod caps. The end was to wide and didn't clear the crank. I'm gonna email the guy for some pics.
well what I was talking about was knife-edging and/or lightening the crank... you won't save 7 pounds doing it (probably 1-3 pounds).
I've read FFWD Connection's theories before, and they don't hold water. First off, extreme lightening of the crank (especially butchering) will always weaken it, no matter what. You're removing its lateral strength. I've seen a few butcher cranks on 4 cyl N/A applications, but I definitely wouldn't trust it on a high-horsepower forced induction engine.
Secondly, their theory on having a rounded leading edge isn't sound. Sure, a round leading edge is important on an aeroplane and a submarine, where they need to turn back and forth through the water/air and to be maneuverable... but those objects don't need to suddenly pierce through a substance like a clever does. And a crank definitely does not need to be maneuverable. If a submarine had a knife-nose, it would have one direction: straight... same direction as a crank. The butcher-clever design is supposed to pierce through the oil, while removing a lot of weight.
Finally, the only broken cranks I have ever seen were forged and heavily lightened. This is a common practice in v-8 racing, but the untouched/lightly modified cranks are far more reliable. There are processes to knife-edge and lighten the crank up by a couple pounds (4 cyl), that actually keep the strength (and arguably add some), but there is no such thing as "our lightening procedure does NOT hinder its reliability".
BTW, I'm really impressed with the machine work I see on FFWD Connection's website. It looks top-notch and I'm sure they do great work. I just think the person that wrote the webpage probably got a little carried away.
--Mac
. Elighten us more on your secrets of aluminum rods!Elighten us more on your secrets of aluminum rods!
, I don't have any... I really don't have much knowledge about aluminum rods. Personally, I'd stick to steel for the purpose they serve, but I'm consistantly amazed with what aluminum is being used for and it doesn't suprise me that it could be used for DD rods.I will be starting a new build at the first of the year and I want a lightweight rotating assembly. Right now I plan to use groden rods with the butchered stroker crank. Does anyone see a problem with that combo? I am also considering the wiseco hd 1400 pistons? Any advice is welcome.
When I build my engine I will be using Groden rods, FFWD butcher crank, and Mahle pistons. This will be on a car that will be seeing around 5,000-8,000 miles a year, most being street miles.
I'm not worried one bit.
That's good to know. Will that be a 2.0, 2.3, 2.4? I will be doing about the same amount of street driving but it will be a 2.3l. I am shooting for 700 whp minimum and from whAt I understand the grodens are adequate for that goal.
That's good to know. Will that be a 2.0, 2.3, 2.4? I will be doing about the same amount of street driving but it will be a 2.3l. I am shooting for 700 whp minimum and from whAt I understand the grodens are adequate for that goal.
This will be a 2.0L unless I get more money to spend on it than I plan on getting. In that case it would be a 2.1L. The Grodens won't have any problems with that power level. Jake Montgomery (evil eagle) ran aluminum rods in his car without a problem.

Actually he broke one and shot it threw the block
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drag-strip/299957-jake-montgomery-mir.html
It wasn't because of the rod failing though.