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Considering a dual fuel rail setup running independently / different fuel, is this practical?

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IntellectCorner

Probationary Member
10
3
May 6, 2023
Harrisonburg, Virginia
So I'm about to get my DSM back on the road for the first time in roughly 7 years, assuming everything works properly (I'm sure there will be a few misc quirks to iron out and misc things that need replacement), I'm looking to do some further upgrades in the near future. I'll list my full modlist at the bottom of this thread for reference for anyone curious, but the important parts to this conversation are: Built [forged pistons / rods, Port & Polished Head] 2.0L 6-bolt 4G63T, 9:1 compression, EVO 3 16G turbo, FMIC, 3" exhaust, FULL version of DSM link [did it just change name to ECM link or is that different...? Haven't used it in a while, just checked and the software CD says ECM link on it, sooo... whatever that means]. I currently have the stock fuel pump housing, stock fuel lines, and stock fuel rail & pressure regulator. I do have a walbro 255 pump and 850cc injectors though. My long-term goals are likely around 600-700 crank HP (sometime soon I'll do a separate post about my long term goals, as I realize I need to iron those decisions out before actually buying parts / making other major decisions). For some background, I use to volunteer and later work at a motorsports shop (where I picked up much of my mechanic and DSM knowledge), but that was in the early to mid 2000s, so it's been quite a while since I regularly worked on / dealt with these cars (and motorsports in general), so I'm a bit rusty. Also FYI, I have done a bit of computer programming and messed a little with micro-controllers (this could be relevant depending on how involved the engine management side of this could be); that said I'd *prefer* not to have to do custom micro-controller stuff as that could get very involved / time consuming, but I might consider it if it turns out we need it, but only to do something very simple.

So anyways, on with the main topic: I've been looking into different options for upgrading my fuel system (while I don't "need" it quite yet, I'm aware I'm getting very close to that point, and DEFINITELY would need to do so to reach my long term goals). However as I look into some of my options, probably the most "common" one being a twin in-tank pump, and fully upgrading the fuel lines with much bigger AN line, and an upgraded fuel rail, I've started to notice just how expensive that option could be (heck, just the twin in-tank pump HOUSING ALONE costs ~$450, WITHOUT the pumps, and AN line & fittings can get very expensive too). As a quick side note, back when I was involved in motorsports the 255 LPH pumps (or something near that) was the highest flow regular, drop-in-replacement pumps you could get [commonly anyways, maybe there was some obscure options available]. I've noticed that there are some MUCH higher flow pumps available now, is that a meaningful option, or do you quickly start being limited by the small diameter of the stock lines anyways?

...anyways, getting back on the main topic, so I got thinking that if I need to buy a fuel pump, fuel lines, fuel rail, etc., I'm getting the majority of an entire fuel system; would it be an option (and *possibly* cheaper, or at least better value for your money) to actually just ADD a full secondary fuel circuit? Meaning buy a relatively small fuel cell (maybe a couple to several gallons, but probably like 2 to 4 or so), put the new pump in that, run the new lines from that, and just run a second fuel rail. Yes, there are most definitely some... involved aspects of adding a second fuel rail, [i.e. welding in bungs], however, depending on how practical the engine management aspect of this would be, there is a potential BIG advantage: you can run different fuels in your stock tank and the small new tank. My current thought is if I could run regular, 87-octane gas in the stock fuel tank, and use the stock fuel rail to run that gas when just cruising / low boost, then completely DISABLE the stock rail and start using ONLY the injectors in the second rail, where I'd run, say, 93-octane premium [EDIT: MAJOR typo, I meant to say 93 octane, it originally said 91 octane]. I realize this is where it may or may not be a problem from an engine management side - I know a number of people HAVE run duel rails, and I've *heard* that DSM link supports that (in what manner and in what way, I'm not sure - that could also be wrong), however I highly suspect most or all duel rail setups are running BOTH rails at the same time [and possibly using the exact same signals, therefore requiring the same size injectors in both rails]. Duel rails systems is something I've never dealt with before, I've never seen it in person, I've never directly talked to someone that's done it, etc., so I have NO direct knowledge about it.

So, in a perfect world if this WAS practical to do, I'd run 87 octane in the main tank, leave the 255 single in tank pump and stock fuel lines and rail alone, and can run [relatively speaking] smaller injectors to keep good idle control and whatnot. Once you pass a certain threshold (some point well BEFORE you reach the point you're at enough boost that you risk knock on 87 octane) you TURN OFF the first rail, and ONLY use the second rail, with it's entire own fuel tank/system, running 93 octane (or higher). This would also allow me to run VERY large injectors in the second rail (to handle long-term goals of 600 to 700 crank HP) without making it hard to idle. This would also give the option of running something even higher, say race gas, or possibly e-85, but that's a whole 'nother can of worms I probably don't want to get into; for now, let's assume I'd be running premium pump gas in the "high end" tank. If I end up driving the car a lot, this could save a substantial amount of money in gas, as I'd mostly be running on regular, low-octane. Oh, and for reference, I'm considering mounting the small fuel cell in the now-empty front right fender well, since I've removed the side mount and have a FMIC now. That said I'm open to options / thoughts on that too.

I'm aware there are things like this Magnus kit for adding another fuel rail:
So clearly there's some aftermarket support for it (now, how involved it would be to weld them in I don't know; also, I currently still have a stock intake Mani, but I'm aware I'd need to upgrade that to hit my long term goals anyways.

I suppose there's two main aspects to this I need advice on. First off is the physical aspect of it; does anyone have experience actually installing a 2nd fuel rail setup? Is it super involved to install the bungs, and/or hard to get things to seal up, or any other common issues with doing a 2nd rail?

The other aspect of this I need advice on - and I suspect this is going to be the FAR more complex part - is what are my options from an engine management perspective? What sorts of duel-rail support does DSM link handle? I want to say I heard it can control another rail via a signal pin or two or something like that, is that correct? Of course this would require a separate circuit board with fuel injector drivers on it, but I assume that's probably available / been done before...? Secondly, does DSM link only support cloning a signal (i.e. if you're running two rails with the same size injectors) or controlling both separately? If you can control them separately, is it an option to fully disable one rail? Or, if there's no direct / intended engine management setting for this sort of thing, would there be any workarounds? I.e. having a micro-controller switch over from one rail to the other under certain parameters, and at the same time send a signal to DSM link to switch to a different fuel map (it's been a long time, but I'm pretty sure that DSM link has support for that? As it'd be pretty common for people to want a physical switch or button or something to change between a "high boost" and "low boost" fuel maps, or something like that)?

Anyways, whatever the case, I'm definitely open to all sorts of thoughts and ideas! Also, even if you can't answer the whole question, if you have data or pointers or info on just one aspect of it, that would still be SUPER helpful! Also, as long as it didn't ended up being TOO complicated or cost TOO much more, it would certainly be a fun and interesting and unique build / custom setup, and that might be worth a little extra money to me. That said, I'm not going to get crazy with it, i.e. if it ends up costing another $1000, then yeah, not happening haha. Also, if upgrading the stock system is a lot cheaper these days than I'm thinking (i.e. if a single in-tank pump in the factory housing can handle things now), that would be helpful info for me to learn as well.

Of course, if there's any questions any of you have for me, questions about a setup like this that I don't yet know to ask (likely the case haha), etc., please feel free to ask! Regardless of if I end up doing this or not, I'd like this to become a very helpful thread for future reference for anyone else looking into duel rail setups. I've searched the forum and found only a FEW posts about it, and while there were a little help, didn't get NEARLY technical enough to answer my questions. Hopefully we can change that with this post, and if I do end up building this setup, I'll try to document my progress as best as I can for others to see how to do it, what sorts of problems / challenges they may face, etc.

This is my first post here, but as I'm just about to get my car back on the road (it starts & drives OK, I just need to replace the tires (already ordered, should be getting put on early next week), windshield (either next week or ~3 weeks from now, as I'll be out of town ~2 weeks from now), and some minor exhaust work (I think just 1 or 2 exhaust mounts - assuming we don't find more issues). ...then I need to get it inspected, and who knows what they may or may not find / complain about, but we'll cross that bridge when we get to it haha. Anyways, I've been out of the motorsports scene for a while now but been REALLY excited to get back into it for the last several months, so I expect to be on here a lot more starting now haha, as there's so many things (and new things / products / technology) that I'm very excited to learn about / brush up on! So, nice to meet you all, and hope to get to know you all better!

As promised, here's the full (well, nearly full, I don't want to spend all day on this haha) mod list for my car:
My car is a 1991 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD Turbo [Manual Transmission], with a fully built (Forged Pistons & Rods, Ported & Polished Head, Upgraded valve-springs and *slightly* oversize valves) 2.0L 4G63T engine, EVO 3 16G Turbo, 2G MAF, full FMIC intercooler & piping, upgraded bored-out bigger rebuild of stock Throttle Body, aftermarket [stock-style but bigger ports] exhaust manifold, full custom 3" exhaust. Walbro 255 LPH pump, factory fuel lines & rail, 850cc Injectors, full version of DSM link engine management. Resurfaced factory flywheel with ACT 2600 clutch, stock LSD rear end [I think 3-bolt], and a TRE stage 1.5 [I think, either 1.5 or 2] rebuilt transmission. Currently has unknown presumably non-stock cams (we couldn't see any serial numbers/etc. to identify them), but they're either stock or VERY close to stock size. Currently makes around 360 HP and 330 TQ [at the crank] according to DSM link.
I got some Brian Crower 276/276 cams for my birthday (they were on backorder, haven't come in yet, but should soon). It'll be a little while before I'm ready to install them, but it'll be really nice to have them once I am ready to; I mention it because that's a big "coming soon" mod to be aware of.
 
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Well you could run a dual fuel system on your car if you really wanted to, but it's kind of overkill for 700 hp, and it would wind up costing you a lot more than you probably think.

Tim Zimmer had a dual fuel system on his car, but that was for 1200 hp. You can take a look at his specs and mods here: https://www.dsmtuners.com/dsm-profiles/twicks69s-eclipse-gsx.2065/
His engine management was an AEM EMS.
He gave us a basic description of his controller setup for staging the 2 rails and 2 sets of pumps in @GST with PSI 's build thread a few years ago, here, starting in post #241, then 244, 246:
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/gstwithpsi-galant-vr4-1837-of-2000.482807/page-10#post-153624697
For a basic intro to that string of posts you should read post #235.

The 1g cars like yours (and mine) have a nice long (deep) fuel pump hanger that gives you room to mount a physically bigger fuel pump than the 255. (The 2g cars don't have much room here). So I mean bigger like the large body Walbros: the F90000274, F90000285, F90000295.
Those pumps are multi-fuel compatible and will run to a high pressure, as well as more flow rate.
You can do a lot of hp with a single F90000285 or F90000295.
 
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There’s no reason to do any of that. You could do what you ultimately want to do on 4 injectors and an in tank pump these days. If you really wanted to do a separate map for 87 octane ECMlink has the capability to do separate maps on a switch but there’s not a whole lot there in terms of benefits or savings. I’m guessing since you’re talking 91 octane you live out west where that’s the highest octane you can buy at a regular pump but if it’s available in your area I would recommend using e85 to hit your goals. Now with e85 you could do a flex fuel set up using an ethanol content sensor that would make adjustments based on ethanol content in your fuel, but unfortunately ECMlink can’t control boost based on ethanol content, only fuel and timing. They tried to make it so boost would be adjusted per ethanol content via a solenoid but could never get it working right and removed the feature in a firmware update. However true standalones like aem ems 2 or Haltech or linkecu g4x can indeed control boost based on ethanol content. But that’s all a whole separate can of worms.

In short, in todays age there’s no benefit in attempting what you’re speaking of. With todays technology even with something like 2200cc injectors you can get idle dialed in properly, so too much injector isn’t really much of a thing these days.
 
Wow so much to chew on, thanks for all the tips!

First off, sorry, brain fart, I meant I say 93 octane, not 91; it's been a long day haha. I live in Virginia, so east coast, so yeah 93 octane is available. In my sleepy state I was thinking 87 -> 89 [a jump of 2], so therefore next jump is 2 so -> 91. Yeah I definitely wouldn't consider it for for just jumping from 87 to 91.

I'll reply in sequence:

Re: Stapl3

SOOO many acronyms haha. By 37r do you mean a GT37R? [if so, dang, impressive!] I'm not sure what you mean by "using a 450"... the only "450" number I can think of off the top of my head related to these cars is the stock fuel injector size, and that's clearly not what you're talking about haha. Also, what's BAP stand for? The 2150s are almost certainly the injector size [since you're using E85, that sounds about right]. I'm not sure what AFPR stands for either. I may be familiar with these things but just not the acronym for them... or they could just be newer then when I was regularly dealing with motorsports stuff. Or I just don't remember haha.

Anyways, thank you for the reply, even without understanding those acronyms (although I am curious about them haha), this was still SUPER informative! Unless those acronyms are some massive fuel system mod, I wasn't aware you could do nearly that kind of fuel flow with a partially stock system (I'm assuming stock fuel pump housing, but upgraded fuel line size...?)

Re: We're on Boost <- Is that your username...?!? I've never seen a forum where you can have usernames like that, with spaces, etc. haha. Nice.

Wow, so much info, thank you SOOO much!

I haven't had a chance to read your links yet, but I MOST DEFINITELY will read them in details sometime very shortly!

I am quite curious how much this setup would end up costing, but it's very possible I may be able to gain a good bit of info about it via the links you provided, so I'll check those out first.

As I learn more about what's possible with stock fuel systems, I'm starting to see that my power goals are actually a FAR more important part of this conversation, and that I really need to decide that before digging *too* deep into this. I will say that, obviously it would be cool to have a car making that magical 1000 horsepower, but I suspect that I'd give up reliability and drive ability in spades to gain that extra 300-400 HP [over a 600 or 700 HP goal]. I would be elated if I find out that with today's technology and knowledge 1000 HP is actually slightly practical, but I'm not holding my breath on that. Anyways, like I said I'll start another thread about that sometime shortly, I don't want to derail this one. For some clarity, I'm looking for a street car that I drive on the street; I'm too worried about breaking parts to genuinely race it (meaning, launch it at a dragstrip, with all that extra traction); I *might* do a few passes to see what the trap speed is or something like that, but probably not seriously racing it, transmissions and drivetrain parts are getting rare and expensive haha.

Fascinating to know that the 1g has WAY more space in the pump hanger than 2g! It's been so long since I've dealt with a 2g fuel pump. Anyways, with that in mind, I'll look up the parts numbers you mentioned, and again I'll read in depth the links. Thanks so much!

Re: Spleen8urLSX

Many of your points have already been touched on (and again, sorry about the 91 octane type, I meant 93 octane). I *almost* certainly don't want to do an E85 setup, after learning how irregular the fuel is (you touched on that), and - the bigger concern to me - just how quickly it clogs up injectors. I can't be sending off the injectors to have them cleaned every time the car sits two week, let alone two months. Now, it's entirely possible this has gotten better; that's just been what I've read about online [recently], and seen in person [albeit like 15 years ago give or take].

Your comment about there not being a *big* benefit to what I suggested is very valid, now that I've seen more from these replies what's possible with the stock setup - or at least the stock pump hanger.

That said, my main goal would be to be running '87 octane for *most* driving to be saving the 60 cents a gallon price increase (and that's if you're lucky, I've seen 90 to 100 cents more at some stations) over premium 93 octane. So I'm still curious to do some more research into this, but I do see that it's not worth spending a ton of time looking into unless I genuinely could do the setup for a pretty low/reasonable price.

Really good to know that these days you can get idle right with HUUUUUGE injectors, if it's practical with 2200cc ones LOL!
 
I run the 525 Hellcat pump (TI Industries 285). Well into 600hp+ with a stock rail with 2150s and a 60mm turbo on pump E85. Bigger feed and return lines and 35+ lbs boost.
There is a different range of options now is all I am trying to say. Glad you are back!
 
Re: Stapl3

SOOO many acronyms haha. By 37r do you mean a GT37R? [if so, dang, impressive!] I'm not sure what you mean by "using a 450"... the only "450" number I can think of off the top of my head related to these cars is the stock fuel injector size, and that's clearly not what you're talking about haha. Also, what's BAP stand for? The 2150s are almost certainly the injector size [since you're using E85, that sounds about right]. I'm not sure what AFPR stands for either. I may be familiar with these things but just not the acronym for them... or they could just be newer then when I was regularly dealing with motorsports stuff. Or I just don't remember haha.

Anyways, thank you for the reply, even without understanding those acronyms (although I am curious about them haha), this was still SUPER informative! Unless those acronyms are some massive fuel system mod, I wasn't aware you could do nearly that kind of fuel flow with a partially stock system (I'm assuming stock fuel pump housing, but upgraded fuel line size...?)
Yeah, gt37r. Walbro 450 pump. BAP is a boost-a-pump, It puts 18v to the pump. AFPR is just an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. That's all I have man. Stock fuel lines. Stock hanger. Stock rail. It's kind of incredible really. And again I used e85 which needs about 20% more fuel overall. The fact I used e85 really solidifies how good the stock lines are. I think with gas the stock lines could support 1000hp. I never saw a limit with them anyways. I also think they're damn close to -6an. So anyone that replaces their lines with -6 as an 'upgrade' might as well just put the money in the toilet and push the handle.

Ecmlink can do dual rails with this. Using it to have two separate tanks, pumps, lines, etc just to run 91 instead of 87 during WOT is ridiculous to me. Lets be honest, 91 sucks just as bad as 87. We even had 94 around here back 15 years ago and that stuff sucked too. Pump gas for power on a strung out turbo 4 banger just doesn't really work. E85 or race gas would make more sense and I'd probably be doing exactly what you're thinking of if I wasn't surrounded by e85. And I don't know how much you drive around at wide open throttle but just a 2 gallon tank, spraying only during WOT, would easily last me a year. So maybe look into acquiring the good stuff if you do follow through with this.
 
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I'm not sure what you mean by "using a 450"... the only "450" number I can think of
He would be referring to either the Walbro F90000267 or the F90000274. They are both referred to as a "450".
The F90000274 is preferred because it has a higher relief pressure. The 0000267 output starts to drop rapidly (knee over) at around 80psi fuel pressure. The 0000274 pressure doesn't knee over until somewhere over 100 psi.

Of course all these pumps have less and less flowrate as the pressure goes up. So just knowing the basic "rating" number for the pump doesn't do it. You should look at a chart for the pump to see how many LPH it flows at the pressure you think you'll need (base pressure + max boost + 5 or 10 psi line losses).

I run the 525 Hellcat pump (TI Industries 285).
He is referring to the Walbro F90000285.

The best place to get the whole picture about this family of "large body" Walbros is the 2018 article by Radium Engineering, here:
http://www.radiumauto.com/Blog/Post/Testing-the-TI-Automotive-Walbro-F90000285-Fuel-Pump-109

Another good website to find Walbro info is this seller website:
https://walbrofuelpumps.com/
One way to use that site is with their search line. For example, put in F90000285 and it will give you a page that shows the pump and the install kit. Pick the link for the pump and it takes you to a page of info about just that one pump. Usually there will be a Flow chart there shown as one of the pictures.

Radium Engineering has a 2019 article that adds to the stuff they wrote in 2018, and they add a Walbro GSS342 to it just for comparison to the newer stuff. (GSS342 is one of the "255" pumps):
http://www.radiumauto.com/Blog/Post/Radium-s-Ultimate-Fuel-Pump-Test-100

Yup, We're on Boost is my username, spaces and all. No underbars.
Type in we' and you got it, I'm the only we' in here. LOL

it would be cool to have a car making that magical 1000 horsepower
Actually no. LOL. I mean, the transmissions just can't take it for very long. The transmission situation, for manuals at least, is pretty dire. I mean not just breaking them, but also lack of parts for a good rebuild. It got even worse with the fire at Tim Zimmer's shop last year which destroyed a lot of stuff.
My car dynoed at 650 awhp but I only drive it at around 550 hp, flex fuel, usually around 40-50% ethanol in the tank. 20% in the winter. My Specs and Photos page is worth looking at too. I keep it up to date, it's fairly complete, and I tell some of the story there.
 
I run a dual rail system in my car, I use a full standalone ecu to run the injectors though, I have it setup similar to what you want to do with smaller 1000's in the front rail and 1650's in the rear rail, I dont use separate fuels though, just alcohol for both rails, but the ecu does transition between front to rear rail based on load.
 
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