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ECMlink Cold start stalling

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Jacolu3

Proven Member
638
131
Jan 31, 2015
Lake Grove, New York
So im starting to get a hang of tuning with link but still have a lot to learn. I think my biggest issue right now, which isnt a huge deal, is that when I cold start my car I need to give it a little throttle to keep it running or it will stall. Ive messed around with coolanttempfueladj, and crankingfueladj, but neither seemed to get rid of my problem. I pretty much have to give it some gas for about 3 mins or it will just stall on me. I already have my idle set to 1000 rpms which I know is a little high but once warm idles pretty good at that rpm. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Brian


1). Any boost, vac, or exhaust leaks?

nope

2). Verified mechanical timing?
good
3). Verified base timing?
good
4). Ignition system
NGKs 8s gapped at .028
ngk wires
5). Motor health (Compression Test)
good

6). Performed basic throttle body adjustments?
Idle Switch:yes
Throttle Cable:yes
TPS:sometimes its .61 and sometimes its .63, but when Im full throttle its 5 volts


7). Compression ratio
9.5:1
8). Any known bad sensors or brittle wiring?
no
9). Any DTC/CEL codes?
no
10). Electrical system
Car off (not running):good
Car running:good

11). Base fuel pressure and injector values
Base Fuel Pressure:43.5
Injector Size (cc/min): FIC 1120

12). Properly calibrated and configured wideband sensor
Sensor Brand: Innovate lc2
Calibration Date:approx 3 months ago

13). Type of fuel
Type:93 octane
Percent of Ethanol:

14). Watched ECMlink how-to videos?
yes
 
I can't remember for sure but... I want to say this sounds like symptoms of a coolant temp sensor failure (the larger lower sensor in the thermostat housing). The wires on the harness over time seem to commonly break off, but it could be the sensor itself. Check that.
 
I can't remember for sure but... I want to say this sounds like symptoms of a coolant temp sensor failure (the larger lower sensor in the thermostat housing). The wires on the harness over time seem to commonly break off, but it could be the sensor itself. Check that.

I recently pulled my tranny and in the process I broke the coolant temp sensor plug. So I replaced it with a new plug that I soldered in so I'm almost positive that the plug is good. And the sensor itself is only a few months old so I don't think that it's bad.
Honestly come to think of it, this only started happing once I switched over to SD. Not sure if that has anything to do with it. Maybe I have to adjust my sd table?
 
btw, on my car I have about the same injectors and my car starts up cold perfectly with way less added fuel % in my coolanttempfueladj table. I would revert that for now if I were you, i think you're sending way too much fuel during startup as you have 53.1% at 70 degF when right now your coolant temp is showing 60degF (if it's accurate, even then that's likely your ambient temp in the US so regardless this might still be an issue).
 
btw, on my car I have about the same injectors and my car starts up cold perfectly with way less added fuel % in my coolanttempfueladj table. I would revert that for now if I were you, i think you're sending way too much fuel during startup as you have 53.1% at 70 degF when right now your coolant temp is showing 60degF (if it's accurate, even then that's likely your ambient temp in the US so regardless this might still be an issue).
I started slowly bumping up my coolanttempfueladj table thinking that it might help with my warmup process. Maybe it helped a little but I'm not sure. I just started my car Monday after it was sitting for 5 weeks. When I started it 5 weeks ago I was having the same problem but it was colder out so I might have bumped it up too much.
 
Yeesh, that's how out of tuning I am. For some reason I thought your log was super short as I was zoomed in to the beginning. So you can rule the ect out at least :)
 
I think my biggest issue right now, which isnt a huge deal, is that when I cold start my car I need to give it a little throttle to keep it running or it will stall.

FWIW I have to do the same thing to 1837 if it's bone cold (like sits overnight). When you start deleting the FIAV and other associated stuff, the car starts rough in the cold (especially on E85 like in my case). If it runs like crap after startup regardless of temp, that's another issue.
 
FWIW I have to do the same thing to 1837 if it's bone cold (like sits overnight). When you start deleting the FIAV and other associated stuff, the car starts rough in the cold (especially on E85 like in my case). If it runs like crap after startup regardless of temp, that's another issue.

Ok cool. I'm on 93 pump but it's really not a big deal.
Just curious if it was normal. Once it reaches operating temp it runs pretty good. Could still use a little tweaking but on the most part it runs good.
Thanks for the input
 
FWIW I have to do the same thing to 1837 if it's bone cold (like sits overnight). When you start deleting the FIAV and other associated stuff, the car starts rough in the cold (especially on E85 like in my case). If it runs like crap after startup regardless of temp, that's another issue.

I'm a dope. I completely forgot I was bypassing my fiav. Now it makes sense
 
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