Coil Spring Install Problems

[Ryn1727]

Hey guys my car came with some lowering springs that I am in the process of taking off because they destroying the inside of my tires and theres alot of snow where i go to school. I already finished the drivers side front and rear and now that im on the passengers side ive hit a problem. Heres a pictures to make it make more sense

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The piece I circled in red is my problem. Above it is the bolt i need to remove to get my strut out. When i try to loosen the nut that holds that piece in place it just spins the whole assembly since the threads that the nut are on connect to that silver ball bearing kind of thing. I don't know what to call it, on my drivers side that that was broken off and not in the way. In the picture it looks like theres room to screw the bolt for the strut out but i need to remove that part before i can get it out. Does anyone have an ideas on how to stop the threads from spinning so i can get the nut off?

 

[jtmcinder]

It's typical for the swaybar endlinks to seize. You just cut them and replace.

With that said, why not just get an alignment to save your tires. Even if you have to shim the rear upper control arms, it's a lot less expensive.

- Jtoby

 

[TheMadCheshire]

Those are the sway bar links and i suggest that you fix the drivers side. If you have access to an impact gun, you can get it with that, just hit the trigger in quick bursts: hold for a second, then let the gun stop, then hit it again for a second, then let the gun stop. Basically it allows 300 ft-lds to hit that nut all at once and then off, then again. Its more torque than a ratchet or a wrench could do by hand. You sometimes have to do that with shocks on trucks and older unibodies.
Another option is vise-grips. Grab the link directly behind the knuckle on the silver part with the vise grips. Grab your wrench and go to town. Replacement is suggested if you do this.
Last option is to cut it. Cut behind the knuckle on the silver part and you may have use a punch to get the cut stud and nut out. Replacement is required at this point.

Goodluck

 

[Ryn1727]

alright thanks for the quick responses guys, whats the consequences of driving with the broken one on my drivers side, ive had the car for a while now so im assuming its been like that since i bought it

 

[TheMadCheshire]

Well the sway bar is designed to do exactly that: reduce sway. So body roll should improve(i.e. less) if you were to get the driver side back on. Other times i've seen it make a noise and people don't know why. Bring it in and "oh, theres your problem". Worst comes to worst it could potentially mess with the drive axle or put a hole in your tire. Although that seems fairly unlikley because its not that long and the ball joint characteristics of it allow the tire or drive axle to push it out of the way.
There are relatively easy to put on and cheap. I mean, as a shop we charge 34 bucks to put on one. But it usually only takes like 15 minutes and most of that is waiting for the parts store to bring the links over.

Just make sure the front end if off the ground when replacing. Don't jack up one side only, this can make it a little difficult to get the link back in the knuckle. Do-able, but I suggest lifting both front wheels off the ground.

 

[ZmanIV]

The back side of the ball stud has flats to grab onto with a wrench. use those to hold it still while removing the nut

 

[ILLiCliPSE]

I have a similar problem. I went to install my Tein coilovers this weekend, and that nut thats for the swaybar endlink is rounded. I cant even fit a 14mm wrench around it anymore, let alone being able to smack it on with a hammer. I think Im just gonna cut them off and replace them with new swaybar endlinks. You got lucky...your bolt doesnt have the dredded hex bolt like mine does.

 

[Ryn1727]

ya thank god the bolt was fine, i just ended up using a vice grip on it and i ended up messing it up pretty bad, ill pick new ones up for both sides since i now have neither. thanks for all the help guys.