Clutch will not Disengage

[Turningturbo25]

I just installed the act 2600 and the ACT exact flywheel on my 90. I bolted the trans back up and the clutch will not disengage. Even if I start it up in gear, it will start up rolling and will not be disengaged. So I thought it was the slave cylinder, I bled the crap out of mine and it still wouldn't disengage, so then I borrowed a working slave cylinder installed it and bled that, still didn't disengage. So then I checked the adjustment setting on the master cylinder and it was maxed out, so I ordered a new one, bolted it up with the adjustment maxed out, bled the lines and tried it again and STILL the clutch wasn't disengaging. So I thought maybe the shift fork was bent so I dropped the trans and checked it out and it looks good to what I can tell. So I am stumped, the only thing I can think of is I torque the bolts from the clutch to the flywheel to 16 ft lbs and the torque spec range was 11-16.

 

[Turningturbo25]

Is it possible that the disk it too large the pressure plate can't disengage from it? Or that i have the wrong flywheel and the raised section of the flywheel that the Pressure plate attaches too isn't the correct height and is not high enough? There both brand new the 2600 and exact........

 

[Maestr0]

Try cracking the banjo fitting on the slave while bleeding. A ton of air was trapped there on my car.

 

[ldstang50]

its gonna sound like a stupid question, but is your throw out bearing installed properly. Clutch forks are made out of a hardened steel and almost impossible to bend, even on strong triple plate clutches.
How much play does your clutch have?

 

[Turningturbo25]

I dont see how there is a possible way to put the tob in wrong? Or am i very wrong

 

[ldstang50]

people can always figure out a way to mess things up, not saying you did. i was doing a clutch with a buddy of mine and he installed the throw out bearing backwards, . so it can be done. that was two years ago though.

 

[Turningturbo25]

Try cracking the banjo fitting on the slave while bleeding. A ton of air was trapped there on my car.

I dont think its the bleeding that is the problem because the slave seems to push out to its fullest

 

[leet]

its gonna sound like a stupid question, but is your throw out bearing installed properly. Clutch forks are made out of a hardened steel and almost impossible to bend, even on strong triple plate clutches.
How much play does your clutch have?

PLENTY of people have broken clutch forks in DSM's.

You probably need to shim the clutch fork pivot ball. RRE has an article on their site about this, as does Taboo, I believe.

 

[souls25]

I just installed a 2600 with the ACT street disc, but with a machined flywheel. I changed the cylinder's metal rod to a longer one, hoping to open up the plate more, but I'm still having troubles engaging the gears. Asked a mechanic, he said I have to drive it for a while and let the the clutch open up before I can have smooth engagement. OR should I just adjust the screw at the clutch pedal? Asked mechanic, he said that would force it too much and damage the plate. I'm clueless now.

 

[Turningturbo25]

I just installed a 2600 with the ACT street disc, but with a machined flywheel. I changed the cylinder's metal rod to a longer one, hoping to open up the plate more, but I'm still having troubles engaging the gears. Asked a mechanic, he said I have to drive it for a while and let the the clutch open up before I can have smooth engagement. OR should I just adjust the screw at the clutch pedal? Asked mechanic, he said that would force it too much and damage the plate. I'm clueless now.

Have you adjusted the master cylinder and are sure you have the right tob (dunno if there is a common wrong one)

 

[Turningturbo25]

PLENTY of people have broken clutch forks in DSM's.

You probably need to shim the clutch fork pivot ball. RRE has an article on their site about this, as does Taboo, I believe.

I haven;t read the artical but i am going to assume that shimming should be for someone who is in a situation like souls25 where is clutch isnt fully disgaging, and not really for situations like my case the clutch isn't disengaging enough to even get the car in gear at all. And sense i droped the trans i haven't reallly had much time to mess around with anything, but i did notice that the fingers in the pressure plate seem low, low enough that you would think that the clutch disk was disengaged (i will get pics of this)

 

[souls25]

I have adjusted the master cylinder, in fact it is to the max, and is still not engaging as normal, although I can get into 1st and 2nd if I use a lil more force. Reverse gear, I have to turn off the engine and start it with reverse in. Any ideas?

What's TOB by the way?

 

[Whitetalonb16g]

TOB = Throw Out Bearing

 

[souls25]

Thank you. I installed a new pressure plate, disc and also the TOB. Does it take a while for the clutch to 'run in' before it starts engaging normally?

 

[FASTSPOOLINGST]

I just installed the act 2600 and the ACT exact flywheel on my 90. I bolted the trans back up and the clutch will not disengage. Even if I start it up in gear, it will start up rolling and will not be disengaged. So I thought it was the slave cylinder, I bled the crap out of mine and it still wouldn't disengage, so then I borrowed a working slave cylinder installed it and bled that, still didn't disengage. So then I checked the adjustment setting on the master cylinder and it was maxed out, so I ordered a new one, bolted it up with the adjustment maxed out, bled the lines and tried it again and STILL the clutch wasn't disengaging. So I thought maybe the shift fork was bent so I dropped the trans and checked it out and it looks good to what I can tell. So I am stumped, the only thing I can think of is I torque the bolts from the clutch to the flywheel to 16 ft lbs and the torque spec range was 11-16.

Dude, I don't think you did anything wrong. I just got my jdm in last week, I changed the clutch and flywheel for the exact same combo as you. I put the 2600 and the XACT fly and the SS line. I even bumped the starter in gear and it did the same as you say....it rolled. I start to get pedal pressure like 2 inches maybe off the floor board. I can't put the car into gear from nuetral when the car is running, it just grinds.

I know I installed all my stuff properly, and it seems we are both having the same problem. Did you solve it yet? Keep me posted as I will you also. I am going to try to adjust the.....thingee (can't think of it now) that is under the dash on the firewall.

 

[Morphius]

Have you guys welded the clutch pedal? The 2600 will just work your stock unwelded one like there's no tommarrow. If it was already worn, then no matter what you do, it'll still not disengage. Check the slop in the clutch pedal. Pay attention to the lever that actuates the rod to the master cylinder. Does it move in direct relation to the movement of the clutch pedal?

Read this thread:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3266

 

[98spydert]

Dude, I don't think you did anything wrong. I just got my jdm in last week, I changed the clutch and flywheel for the exact same combo as you. I put the 2600 and the XACT fly and the SS line. I even bumped the starter in gear and it did the same as you say....it rolled. I start to get pedal pressure like 2 inches maybe off the floor board. I can't put the car into gear from nuetral when the car is running, it just grinds.

I know I installed all my stuff properly, and it seems we are both having the same problem. Did you solve it yet? Keep me posted as I will you also. I am going to try to adjust the.....thingee (can't think of it now) that is under the dash on the firewall.

I had the same problem as you two with my 2100 a few months ago. I went with furious bleeding, then adjusting the clutch peddle. Finally a longer push rod for the slave cylinder did the trick. I recommend it. It helps the clutch disk disengage from the flywheel completly. Mines just the stock one with a chunk of another welded on the end but taboo speed shop sells custom made push rods for like $20.

 

[FASTSPOOLINGST]

First I'm going to adjust my clutch pedal all the way out, then i will order the longer rod from taboo, then i'm going to get a new slave cylinder.

If all that doesn't work.....I'm going to push my dsm off a cliff.

 

[98spydert]

Tell me which cliff, I'll bring my camera

 

[souls25]

I ought to see that too ! ANyway, I did the same thing, put on a custom longer rod, adjusted the rod at the pedal to the max, now I can get into gears with some effort. Talked to a fellow DSMer, he says it takes time to 'break in' the new clutch. Well, been driving it for 2 days, seems that the breaking in is SLOWLY working. I'll see what happens after driving it for one week, will keep you guys posted.

p/s: now my clutch seems to 'grab' right at the floor, there's no play at all. Any fixes for that guys?

 

[92awddsm]

pull the tranny back out and shim the pivot ball for the clutch fork. Just unscrew it, install 2 washers, and screw it back in. That will give you some pedal.

 

[duiffuse]

I've had similar problems. I've got a good amount of money into it, and have taken my transmission out twice now. I finally solved the problem with a new fork. The pivot is steel, and the fork is cast iron. It was just simply worn down enough to the point that it wasn't disengaging the clutch. After replacing it, the clutch works 'perfectly' again. It now disengages 6 inches off the floor, as compared to grinding into gear. The fork didn't look worn out on inspection, but keep in mind 1/6th of an inch wear where the pivot contacts is 3/16ths of an inch of motion added to the throwout bearing. I think this is probably the source of your problem..? Good luck.

 

[Turningturbo25]

pull the tranny back out and shim the pivot ball for the clutch fork. Just unscrew it, install 2 washers, and screw it back in. That will give you some pedal.

^This is what i am going to do and kinda have it done...I put two washers in it (0.21 inchs) and just from that the throw looked to be way longer (was to lazy to get the ruler to see how much) i have the tranny bolted in but thats about it (no transfer case, cross members, axles bla bla bla) so when i get a spare hour or so i will finish it up and tell you what the results are. But from the noticabley HUGE difference in the throw i am betting that i will have to adjust the master cylinder's adjustment screw down. But i am almost sure that from the HUGE difference in the throw with the two washers added in that it will be the solution to all the disengaging problems that everyone is having, it might be an over kill tho and just need one washer.

 

[92awddsm]

I say 2 because you have disengagement problems. 1 witll usually fix the slight grinds on gear changes but with no disengagement, it usually takes two. You should have enought adjustment in the clutch master cylinder rod to get it to a normal release point. Let us know how it turns out.

 

[Turningturbo25]

Holy crap it took me long enought but i have fixed my disengagement problems!!I did everything! Washers on the pivot ball for the throw out bearings, taboo's souped up master cylinder (did nothing big), new master cylinder, new slave (two of them cause the bleeder broke on the first one cause i used it so much), adjusted the master cylinder's adjuster all the way out, new lower lines, used a bleeder box, and milled an adjustable slave cylinder rod...........The rod is what did it!!!!!!! The rod is comparable to taboo's longer rod you can buy for a rip off of $40.....