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Clutch will not Disengage

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RICKYTURBO

Probationary Member
8
0
Jun 6, 2003
YABUCOA, Central America
I just installed the act 2100 and the stock flywheel on my 90. I bolted the trans back up and the clutch will not disengage. Even if I start it up in gear, it will start up rolling and will not be disengaged. So I thought it was the slave cylinder, I bled the crap out of mine and it still wouldn't disengage, so then I borrowed a working slave cylinder installed it and bled that, still didn't disengage. So then I checked the adjustment setting on the master cylinder and it was maxed out, so I put a new one, bolted it up with the adjustment maxed out, bled the lines and tried it again and STILL the clutch wasn't disengaging. I put two washers in the pivot ball ( 1/8 inch)and still not working. I ordered a longer slave rod. Can somebody give me a solution for my problem? Thanks,
:dsm: RICKYTURBO :dsm:
 
Get under your car, and look at the clutch fork as its protrudes out of the bellhousing, the way the clutch fork is sticking outta the bellhousing in what direction has alot to do with engagement/disengagement. Let me know what you find.
 
Mike1992 said:
Get under your car, and look at the clutch fork as its protrudes out of the bellhousing, the way the clutch fork is sticking outta the bellhousing in what direction has alot to do with engagement/disengagement. Let me know what you find.

the clutch fork seems to be at the center of bellhousing opening...
 
Take the rubber boot around the fork off and use a measuring tape to see where it is exactly. But, if you say its sitting center then things should be lined up there good. Have you installed the longer slave rod yet?
 
Mike1992 said:
Take the rubber boot around the fork off and use a measuring tape to see where it is exactly. But, if you say its sitting center then things should be lined up there good. Have you installed the longer slave rod yet?



NOT YET. I'M WAITING FOR THE ROD. MEASURING FROM DRIVER SIDE BELLHOUSING OPENING TO CENTERLINE OF FORK WAS 1.125 INCH 1(1/8)
 
aren't you supposed to get the flywheel machined so the clutch can disengage?

I thought that was all dsms not just 2gs when converting to an ACT or other clutch setup. :confused:
 
Attack Eagle said:
aren't you supposed to get the flywheel machined so the clutch can disengage?

I thought that was all dsms not just 2gs when converting to an ACT or other clutch setup. :confused:

You are correct.
 
Hey guys... I got the same exact problem as RICKYTURBO... done it all but pulling the transmission and shimming the pivot ball.

My fork is about centered as well, bled the clutch over and over... clutch still wont disengage. and yes I had the flywheel machined when the clutch and tob where installed over 4 months ago. Clutch never made a noise either.

I really don't want to pull this transmission :(
 
I would hope, but does anyone know if the ACT flywheels come already stepped for this problem?
 
from RRE:

.608" to .610" is ideal for DSM performance clutches. Up to .613" will work. Do not try to use anything shallower than .608" Stock is .612" Our flywheels come stepped to .609" to .610" always. Yes this works with all the clutches that we sell, we are smart like that, having our flywheels work with our clutches :)

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm

Without getting it machined it might work but it would deffinatly explain why it wont dissengage... I would have to go with this being your problem if your clutch fork is aligned/shimmed correctly.
 
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