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Clutch stalls engine in Neutral WTF

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khart1684

Probationary Member
17
0
Aug 26, 2005
Lake Orion, Michigan
Its a 91 :talon: AWD 5 speed, I just bolted it up 2 the engine the other day and cant get the engine to stay running unless I have the clutch pedal depressed. As soon as I start to let off the pedal the RPM's go down, when fully let of the clutch pedal the engine dies out. Haven't come across this problem before and I need help. WTF
 
the tranny isnt in neutral.. you sure you hooked the shifter cables up correctly?
 
Yeah, the tranny is in neutral. I put it in neutral @ the trans its self, lever moves up and down freely and goes into gears fine. As for the cables...I've re-adjusted them inside the car and out, the cables don't cross over each other before the levers do they? It sorta does move when in gear... but then again I haven't really tried because I have to get the RPM's over 3 grand or more just so the wont die. Could this be a rookie mistake I made, if I installed the clutch backwards even though its says FLYWHEEL SIDE right on it? Sometimes its the simplest thing....:barf:
 
Did you put the little 8mm transmission bolt that goes thru the block and then into the back of the tranmission in? Without it, sometimes the trans tries to push itself off the block and you get horrible clutch disengagement. Especially if you forgot the two dowel pins to align the trans correctly.
 
8mm bolt...through the block to the trans? I'm not sure/ unaware of a 8mm bolt that goes through the block 2 the trans. When I installed the trans, It mounted with little / no trouble, dowel pins and all. only bolts are the bell housing bolts and starter bolts.
So last night I really tried to see if it would when in gear... No ah ah. So today I'll RE-re-adjust the gear selector cable inside of the car. Lets say I did install the clutch backwards... Does anybody know what would be the outcome of that?

Thanks to all those who have replied and or who will reply to this thread, Thanks.

Kevin
 
... The biggest thing you need to figure out is why the transmission is in a gear when it shoulding be, or why there is a HUGE amount of friction on the input shaft.

Don't worry about the clutch, as even if you don't have clutch disengagement, the trans should be in neutral. This means something is up with the shifter cables, or shift forks.
 
If the clutch was in backwards it usually will make a nasty sound.
It sounds like you stuck in gear, Did you ever check to see if the car jumps forward if you drop the cltuch?
How much resistants is on the levers when you shift them at the trans?
-Chad
 
Alot of people forget that bolt because its easy to forget, and is hard to find. You cant see it with the transfer case in the car. There is a little ear on the back of the block near the transmission that the bolt goes thru. Ive seen a friend crack a bell housing in half because he forgot to put it in there.

Sounds like you need to adjust the master cylinder rod, or your pedal assembly is shot.

I just got done modifying a clutch pedal assembly with brass bushings and I'm going to provide the service to the dsm community. It replaces the plastic bushings with brass ones, so there is no play in the pedal. A bad assembly will never allow you to disengage your clutch and its hard to detect sometimes. I always thought mine was good, until I pulled it apart. :thumb:
 
Would the pedal assemble go bad just by sitting (the car that is). When I pulled the engine and trans it work fine. That bolt... about how long is it? Does it thread in from the engine side or trans side?
 
the car doesn't jump froward when the clutch is dropped, its just kills the engine. The levers @ the trans its self... normal resistants i would say. Ok, I installed the clutch facing the correct way. When I have the engine running(clutch pedal pressed down), I seem to hear a noise(not loud) that sounds like a rattle snake, its fades in and out, mostly in... Its had to move the car when trying to push it(in or out of garage).

I rebuilt the trans and the forks moved up and down during the rebuild, I went by the deanship manual thats on cd as well as Autodata torqued everything to specs.
 
What brand clutch are you using, there has been allot of problems with the new ACT's.
Jack up the car so that all four wheels are off the ground and level, see what it does then.
It definately doesnt sound like a Master or Slave problem. If it was the clutch wouldnt disengage at all.
-Chad
 
Its the same clutch that was in it before and had no problems @ all. I blew out my second synchro @ the the track so thats why I had removed the trans. I rebuilt it by the "book" (manual) new bearings and synchros.

Its a Duralast , I bought it like 2 years ago but only had it in for four months then one of my cam sprocket bolts mysteriously broken when letting the car warm up. Ok, I'll try it when all 4 R in the air...

-Kevin-
 
Had the same problem in my trans, it ended up being the fork. The fork has an indention for the ball it pivots on, after a while it made the indention bigger and I had to replace the fork.
 
I was beginning to think that it might have something to do with the Through out bearing... speaking of which... I noticed that there is 2 different designs in through out bearings; one has a flared lip and one doesn't. whats the Difference between them...FWD and AWD?
 

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Had the same problem in my trans, it ended up being the fork. The fork has an indention for the ball it pivots on, after a while it made the indention bigger and I had to replace the fork.

How did a clutch fork make your trans stall the engine in Neutral?

It has to be a rebuild/shifter cable problem. If you put the car up on jack stands, release the clutch in neutral and the wheels move, then it has nothing to do with the clutch. You should be able to have the clutch released (so input shaft is connected to crankshaft) and spin the engine up without applying any force to the wheels.
 
Rattling noise sounds like throw out bearing. But usually when they go out the car will stall when you push the clutch pedal in. Are you 100% sure the trans was put back together right?
 
It was brand new 2weeks ago when I installed it. Its flared on its inner race... is this bearing for the FWD's ? I'm gunna say that I am 95% sure it is. I've parted(good used gear rails) together about 4-5 trans before and they worked but this trans is my 1st full rebuild but I'm confident with my work, did all by the schematics("BOOK"). It shifts smoothly @ the trans. I'm going to slip the trans off and check the fork& clip tonight....
 
He was talking about the fulcrum(clip) on the fork, not the fork itself. I pulled the T-case off last night and Today I'll be replacing the fork.
 
I finally finished putting everything back together today, and its still stalling when I let off the clutch pedal. Although it does move when i put it in gear, but I have to rev it past 4-grand and let off the clutch it will jerk forward when in 1st or backward when in revers, which it wouldn't do before. After doing this 3-4 times the clutch was smoking so I stopped. The clutch has to be bleed some more, little pedal pressure. And I found that where that bolt goes that was mentioned a few post back... though I'm sure thats not the reason for my problem, I didn't have that bolt in before and it drove just fine. But thanks for the suggestion.
 
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