Clutch Slip After Parking for a Few Minutes

[Pasta_Ricer]

I know, I know, another DSM/Mitsu clutch problem.

So my car was fine. Only a year past the major rebuild with the new clutch plate, and I was at a show and I launched the car twice in a row, overheating the crap out of the clutch system. After letting it cool down a bit, it was fine and I flat foot shifted it like 200 times until it started weirdly slipping at the canyons and stuff while going fast. It just got worse and worse until my '97 Hyundai Sonata tranny blew and I had to get the stock flywheel, clutch disc and pressure plate, and the stock Galant GTi transmission.

I changed out all the parts myself and basically everything was changed except the clutch slave cylinder and the clutch throw out bearing (forgot to buy one and I was in such an awful hurry that I had to reuse it).

After breaking in the clutch by driving like an actual human being, I beat on it with flat foot shifts and stuff and it was grabbing real hard. It was amazing. But then, after driving for a bit and parking the car, if I were to restart the car and drive in less than 30 mins after parking, the clutch pedal disengagement point would be at almost having your foot off the pedal completely and it would slip at any RPM, any gear if you were over 15% throttle. By letting the car cool down for like an hour or so, everything would turn back until idling for too long or parking.

Have I done something wrong in the repair?
Is it because of the reused throw out bearing?
Could it be the clutch slave cylinder acting up? (I have bled it many times, making no difference)

Thanks

 

[dwb]

Sounds like your master cylinder is over extended and not allowing the bleeder valve to operate normally. Next time it shifts like that, crawl underneath and try to push the slave cylinder by hand towards the engine. It should move fairly easy. If it does not move, inspect and adjust your master cylinder rod position.

 

[Pasta_Ricer]

Sounds like your master cylinder is over extended and not allowing the bleeder valve to operate normally. Next time it shifts like that, crawl underneath and try to push the slave cylinder by hand towards the engine. It should move fairly easy. If it does not move, inspect and adjust your master cylinder rod position.

Ah, I see. By adjust my master cylinder rod do you mean the pedal stop screw or the master cylinder rod that screws into the pedal?

And which way should it be adjusted?

 

[dwb]

The master cylinder rod would be threaded into the clevis.

 

[Pasta_Ricer]

The master cylinder rod would be threaded into the clevis.

Gotcha, thanks. I will try it tomorrow after I find a fix for my power steering pump leaking heavily onto my alternator despite putting on the 2 copper crush washers and tightening it as much as possible. Leaks like a fountain.