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Clutch problems- not crankwalk

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4g63dsmer

Probationary Member
12
2
Apr 3, 2011
pittsfield, Massachusetts
Hey guys i am having a problem sometimes i get a clicking sound when my clutch is pressed in, i believe it is a TOB. It is a act TOB (yes i know)

I have checked the crankshaft end play and there is none and is in spec using a dial indictor, figured so since it is a built 7 bolt full manley rotating assembly with 100mm billet crank,acl race bearings,0.40 over all the good stuff:thumb:

Only 4200 miles on the trans and engine. I have a act 2100 the disc is burnt up really bad and most likely warped, it is begin replaced this week with a southbend FF kevlar clutch.

Alot of my buddy's have said that i have crankwalk but that is impossible unless it started walking in the last 1000 miles which a brand new built motor should'nt do this at all.

If it is not a TOB then i dont know were to start.
 
So it has been 4200 miles since last checked for end play? That's more than enough time for CW to develop. There was an unfortunate thread on the very subject not too long ago. Just recently rebuilt and started to CW.
 
So it has been 4200 miles since last checked for end play? That's more than enough time for CW to develop. There was an unfortunate thread on the very subject not too long ago. Just recently rebuilt and started to CW.

No i checked Crank end play 1000 miles ago. Please explain how it can develop.

No dirt in engine
No metal in the oil pan
I dont ride the clutch
Clutch adjusted correctly
Always have good oil pressure to this very day.

There is no possible way that it can happen the motor is in perfect condition.

Break in was done properly, change oil every 2500 miles, only launched my car once. CW isnt possible for this motors life yet.

Also clutch only goes to the floor maybe 1 out of 20 times when making a left corner.

UPDATE:

I havent experienced any issues today (left turn clutch to floor and ticking by the TOB) these issues havent been present all day long 80 mile drive.

I am still going to pull the trans tomarrow to replace the clutch and re bleed and adjust it. Ill let everyone know how the car is running.
 
You got me. Just saying, it's happened.

How about a new OEM TOB?
Measure step height
RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info

And look at the clutch fork position before removal
TRE TECH TIPS

Measured the crank end play today checked out at 0.43 thousands of an inch which is within spec. Scared me for a sec.

Installed new clutch disc and TOB today, problem is my slave cylinder finally quit 15 years later. LOL Caused me to not be able to shift into any gear only reverse but it grinds.

So tomarrow i need to replace the slave cylinder. We will see were this takes me.....:rolleyes:

iv never heard of t a t/o tickin when the clutch is in...usually when the clutch is out it makes a whine/clicking noise... but yes get an oem t/o its the best you can use

Yeah thats usually what they do, but my car must be wierd..WTF

0.043 **
 
yea, i thought about that at work last night, im havin the same problem kinda. except my t/o actually broke. but i also need a slave and master. plus a new clutch. the owner before me had an orilys clutch. screwed everything up...
 
Update ----

Still cant get the car to shift into any gear and grinds reverse. I have bled the system about 100 times 3 days straight with every method possible, there is no air in the system. I am leaning more towards a mechanical issue like the MC adjust rod or a bent clutch fork or pivot ball. I dont want to have to pull the trans again but it looks like i have too. :notgood:

This DSM really pisses me off sometimes:banghead:

Is the crank end play at 0.043in good or ok, i want to know if i need to replace the main bearings (which ###### wouldnt matter) or if i should just try to find a 6 bolt short block and use that. :confused:
 
Car is running good now. I shimmed the pivot ball using a head stud washer. Clutch engages normal now about 2.5 in off the floor. No crank movement at all, the disc must have been causing the movement.
 
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