Resolved Clutch problem sorta solved, now i have clutch drag

[Galipso]

So as long as i've had the car, there's always been clutch issues. Most recently i had a problem suddenly occur when it just stopped going into gear. I did all the research here on the forums, watched Jacks Transmissions videos on the DSM hydraulic clutch and concluded it had to be a bad clutch master. Well i replaced it, and it didn't fix it. Then last night i checked my tranny bolts and what do ya know, 2 of them were loose. I tightened them up and it started going into gear again.

Now, and as it was before, i have clutch drag. It stalls in reverse and creeps when i rev the engine with it in gear and foot on the clutch. I want to fix this once and for all.

I've already bled the line 3 times with instructions from this forum, adjusted the clutch pedal with the new clutch master installed

Here's my set-up:
Fidanza flywheel
ACT 2100 6 puck w pressure plate
stock fork (fork position is centered towards motor so it is getting full motion with the push rod engagement)
stock TOB
stock pivot ball no shim
semi-new clutch slave (replaced in 2007)
new clutch master

The only things i can think of right now would be to replace the lines with steel braided lines? possibly replace the clutch slave again? shim the pivot ball though i dont think i need it? pull out the whole pedal assembly and check for wear (sounds like a pain in the ass)? pull the trans and replace the fork and TOB?

Thanks

 

[MindBlowin03]

Why not just adjust the pedal rod out more so it engages earlier? You'll be closing the system but at least you're not killing your synchros. You can also try adjusting the actual clutch pedal upwards to get more travel.

 

[oneslowwdsm]

Since the transmission bolts came loose, I wouldn't be surprised if the pressure plate bolts came loose as well as maybe the flywheel bolts. Did you install the clutch yourself and if so did you loc tite the pressure plate and flywheel bolts?

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

So as long as i've had the car, there's always been clutch issues. Most recently i had a problem suddenly occur when it just stopped going into gear. I did all the research here on the forums, watched Jacks Transmissions videos on the DSM hydraulic clutch and concluded it had to be a bad clutch master. Well i replaced it, and it didn't fix it. Then last night i checked my tranny bolts and what do ya know, 2 of them were loose. I tightened them up and it started going into gear again.

Now, and as it was before, i have clutch drag. It stalls in reverse and creeps when i rev the engine with it in gear and foot on the clutch. I want to fix this once and for all.

I've already bled the line 3 times with instructions from this forum, adjusted the clutch pedal with the new clutch master installed

Here's my set-up:
Fidanza flywheel
ACT 2100 6 puck w pressure plate
stock fork (fork position is centered towards motor so it is getting full motion with the push rod engagement)
stock TOB
stock pivot ball no shim
semi-new clutch slave (replaced in 2007)
new clutch master

The only things i can think of right now would be to replace the lines with steel braided lines? possibly replace the clutch slave again? shim the pivot ball though i dont think i need it? pull out the whole pedal assembly and check for wear (sounds like a pain in the ass)? pull the trans and replace the fork and TOB?

Thanks

Were the master and slave OEM? What is the step height on the flywheel? Is it or the PP warped? Are you out of adjustment rod? Normally you should replace the master and slave at the same time. When you torqued the PP down did you do it in a star pattern in 3 stages? Did the trans hang on it at all? What is the condition of the pedal assembly? How much slave travel are you getting?

 

[Galipso]

Since the transmission bolts came loose, I wouldn't be surprised if the pressure plate bolts came loose as well as maybe the flywheel bolts. Did you install the clutch yourself and if so did you loc tite the pressure plate and flywheel bolts?

I installed the flywheel and clutch myself with a torque wrench but did not put lock tight on.
It may have been an oversight on my part during installation that those 2 bolts on the trans didnt get fully tightened, but would stock mounts be too soft and cause excessive torque in the transmission?

Why not just adjust the pedal rod out more so it engages earlier? You'll be closing the system but at least you're not killing your synchros. You can also try adjusting the actual clutch pedal upwards to get more travel.

i backed out the clutch switch all the way back for the pedal to get the most travel back towards me so thats where i stopped the adjustment. Are you suggesting adjusting the rod past this point and keep turning it out towards the driver seat?

 

[Galipso]

Were the master and slave OEM? What is the step height on the flywheel? Is it or the PP warped? Are you out of adjustment rod? Normally you should replace the master and slave at the same time. When you torqued the PP down did you do it in a star pattern in 3 stages? Did the trans hang on it at all? What is the condition of the pedal assembly? How much slave travel are you getting?

I didnt think to check the step height on the flywheel during install because it was brand new and i didnt even know that was something to check during install. I'll have to check the PP for warpage if it comes down to me pulling the trans out. I did not torque it in 3 stages but i did do it in star pattern. Not sure what you mean by the trans hangin on it. I'll measure the slave travel when i get home. Both the slave and master were OEM.

 

[pauleyman]

Clutch adjust isn't the switch. It's the rod for the master. Do you have more room to adjust before the system closes?

 

[Galipso]

Clutch adjust isn't the switch. It's the rod for the master. Do you have more room to adjust before the system closes?

I may not have explained it good enough but i did what Jacks Trans said which was to bad the switch out til its flush with the threaded nut and then adjusted the rod til the pedal reached this point while still engaging the switch.

I fixed the problem though. It was a combination of 2 things. I bled the line again and found more air bubbles so i used the technique that bleeds into a container with fluid already in it as to not let any air get sucked back in. Then, I measured the travel and it came out to 0.51" so i turned the rod out half turn at a time until i got a travel length of 0.74"

My misunderstanding in adjusting the rod was 2 things: i couldn't find that point that closed the system because i spent hours turning that rod with pliers until i later learned i didnt need to do it that way at all, i just used one hand on the clutch pedal and the other to turn the rod in and out by hand. The second thing was that i thought that i would have full slave rod travel just by having full clutch pedal travel but in actuality i need to keep turning the rod in.

I already ordered a CC Clutch fork and an OEM TOB but since my clutch seems to be doing OK now that it is better adjusted and bled right, i will just put those on the shelf until the next time arises where i need to pull the trans. Probably wont be long.

Thanks everyone

 

[pauleyman]

Make sure you can still push the slave in by hand

 

[Galipso]

Make sure you can still push the slave in by hand

I'll be sure to check when i got home, i just got so excited so that it was fixed. Thanks for the reminder

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

I'll be sure to check when i got home, i just got so excited so that it was fixed. Thanks for the reminder

Typical slave travel is .6-.65"

 

[David Prather]

So as long as i've had the car, there's always been clutch issues. Most recently i had a problem suddenly occur when it just stopped going into gear. I did all the research here on the forums, watched Jacks Transmissions videos on the DSM hydraulic clutch and concluded it had to be a bad clutch master. Well i replaced it, and it didn't fix it. Then last night i checked my tranny bolts and what do ya know, 2 of them were loose. I tightened them up and it started going into gear again.

Now, and as it was before, i have clutch drag. It stalls in reverse and creeps when i rev the engine with it in gear and foot on the clutch. I want to fix this once and for all.

I've already bled the line 3 times with instructions from this forum, adjusted the clutch pedal with the new clutch master installed

Here's my set-up:
Fidanza flywheel
ACT 2100 6 puck w pressure plate
stock fork (fork position is centered towards motor so it is getting full motion with the push rod engagement)
stock TOB
stock pivot ball no shim
semi-new clutch slave (replaced in 2007)
new clutch master

The only things i can think of right now would be to replace the lines with steel braided lines? possibly replace the clutch slave again? shim the pivot ball though i dont think i need it? pull out the whole pedal assembly and check for wear (sounds like a pain in the ass)? pull the trans and replace the fork and TOB

Your problem is that your friction plate is staying slightly in contact with your clutch disk. did you make sure that the flywheel assembly and clutch assembly where compatable with no mods/shim ect.