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clutch problem.. i think?

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Batman272

10+ Year Contributor
161
0
Jul 14, 2012
San Marcos, Texas
ok just bought 2ga gsx and had to replace the clutch as soon as i got home. (dumb idea) i bought it knowing there was a clutch problem and was going to replace it then got hurt very next day. sent car to shop and now car is back and now clutch is SLIPPING! he had a HD clutch in it be for but thinking theres not too much done to the car and because im about to deploy i dont want to put too much money into it i just put the stock one back on. when driving 1st gear is fine but when you slam on the gas in 2nd gear she revs out like you have the clutch in. if you shift to 2nd gear and are nice on the gas she will climb to around 4500 rpm and then proceed to rev out doing the same all the way to 5th (sorry for dragging on) :banghead:
 
Sounds to me like the pedal isn't adjusted properly. I would give you a link but I'm on my vita -.- Theres a guy on youtube that explains it pretty well, jafmoble or something. In the drivetrain series.
 
my clutch is slipping also, I can barely touch the gas at all and it slips like crazy, until the rpms get over 4500 then it starts the grab more. Basically starting from a red light is near impossible, but once I'm going and if I keep the rpms up I can drive normal but forget about boosting unless I'm over 6000 rpm then i can go 5 pounds without slipping but it still cant handle WOT. I had this same problem once before on a worn disk, and burnt flywheel. If you do the clutch replace everything, pressure plate, clutch disk, and at least resurface your flywheel, and dont forget the throwout bearing. You get into that part of the engine so little and its a big PITA if you do it yourself. Heck I'm trying to save for a tranny rebuild at the same time when I do my clutch next.

If you want a cheap aftermarket clutch I just found the exedy stage 1 organic kit shep trans claims to support up to 400 hp with 2300 pounds of pressure but I found another site that said it has 1900 pounds of pressure, and supports 250 ft pounds of torque, maybe thats the oem replacement.. either way a good stock replacement for around $350..www.sheptrans.com about the cheapest one out there aside from stock $250

but I would first troubleshoot the entire clutch system before tearing your car apart. master cyclinder, slave cyclinder, pedal adjust, fluid resovoir, hoses, bleed system etc...
 
PITA i had to look it up... LOLz anyways yeah i have already talked to sheptrans and they are going to be building my stage 3 wile im gone on deployment and there an amazing group over there. but i have already replaced clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, all but the god dang throwout bearing. so looks like im going to be doing that next. if you think that a clutch petal adjustment will work where would i start? cause the clutch is real tall and doesn't go until your foot is almost off the petal.
 
When you got the car back from the shop did they give you any break in instructions? Most clutch manufacturers recommend a 500 mile break in with a new clutch. Also I wouldn't think a shop would install a new clutch without resurfacing or replacing the flywheel, but then again I've heard of some pretty shoddy work being done at certain shops. If the flywheel was not resurfaced or replaced that could also cause symptoms similar to what you're describing. I'd definitely check pedal adjustment as well.
 
A flywheel doesn't always have to be resurfaced,,or
changed.
Of coarse it depends on how it was used previously.
A good inspection of the flywheel tells the story of it's life.
The thing about these cars is most of them have been ran
pretty hard,so a resurface isn't a bad idea.
 
Well first of all I live in el paso so finding a good shop is as hard as a needle in a hay stack and second of all I had to save this car from the last owner before he continued to rice burner it out. I was told that they resurfaced the flywheel but because I was hurt and on pain meds I couldn't go down and check my self.
 
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