1G Clutch pedal rebuild

[4gfun]

I bought the JNZ tuning clutch pedal rebuild kit with bronze bushings.

I searched around here and google, but couldn't find a writeup on how to replace it.

Any ideas?

 

[4gfun]

I took a closer look, looks pretty intuitive. Just wondering if the old bushings are going to be hard to remove or if the new ones might be tough to get back in.

 

[blesi660r]

Nothing is hard to get appart or remove The old bushings just pop out and the new ones pop in, then grease it, reassemble and if I were you get it welded, you're over thinking something very simple and straight forward.

 

[tmoney20g]

clear your bench and lay it all out as you take it apart remember how it goes back together. take pics, write notes, whatever helps

 

[4gfun]

Nothing is hard to get appart or remove The old bushings just pop out and the new ones pop in, then grease it, reassemble and if I were you get it welded, you're over thinking something very simple and straight forward.

I would have potentially agreed with you about over thinking things, until you mentioned getting it welded. I posted about doing this before purchasing the parts and from the responses I got the impression was that you either replace the bushings or have it welded.

I just happen to live in an area where I have observed that the majority of people aren't playing with a full deck of cards, especially when it comes to automobiles. This is combined with having a bad attitude against cars that are not perceived to be traditional American muscle cars and/or you simply drive something that they don't. Not the best combo if you need something done.

When you do need something welded, it costs an arm and a leg for something simple only to have them do a bad job in the end.

I have my own welder, but I haven't really had the time to try and learn how to use it yet.

I thought this was a replace and restore event without having it welded.

Thoughts?

Thanks

 

[19Eclipse90]

I would have potentially agreed with you about over thinking things, until you mentioned getting it welded. I posted about doing this before purchasing the parts and from the responses I got the impression was that you either replace the bushings or have it welded.

Reread that thread again if that is the impression you got. It doesn't have to welded; but the decision whether or not to do so is completely up to you.

...Understand that the reason for welding the assembly is to prevent needing another rebuild in the future

The parts that wear and cause the "worn assembly" symptoms are the pedal arm/shaft and the lever piece. The rebuild "kit" includes those pieces and, with the bushings replaced, you effectively have a new assembly. At that point, it is up to you whether to weld or not. It is not required.

The rebuild kits replace the components that wear out. Welding is completely up to you and not even remotely necessary once the worn components are replaced.

Unless you are worried about having to do another rebuild after the next 175k+ miles or 20-25 years of use, it does not need to be welded.

 

[4gfun]

Reread that thread again if that is the impression you got. It doesn't have to welded; but the decision whether or not to do so is completely up to you.


The parts that wear and cause the "worn assembly" symptoms are the pedal arm/shaft and the lever piece. The rebuild "kit" includes those pieces and, with the bushings replaced, you effectively have a new assembly. At that point, it is up to you whether to weld or not. It is not required.



Unless you are worried about having to do another rebuild after the next 175k+ miles or 20-25 years of use, it does not need to be welded.

I got the impression from that thread that you have 2 options, not that you should combine them. The way that I read blessi660r's post was that just replacing the bushings would be just an ok option as opposed to a great one.

 

[4gfun]

Ok all, I am rather confused. I did stop to take pictures, but I guess I didn't get close enough to where I needed to get them.

Once I removed the 14mm nut holding the new clutch pedal assembly, things went downhill fast.

Please keep an eye on this post as I have a few questions, but a few pics will need to be uploaded to support the questions.

 

[4gfun]

**IF YOU DON'T HAVE THE ANSWERS TO EVERY QUESTION PLEASE TRY TO ANSWER SOME OF THEM**

Question 1 - There is a stop for the clutch switch that is on the old pedal assembly, but not on the new one. I guess the expectation is that you remove some of your old hardware. The stop was dry rotted. I did my best to remove it, but it broke in half. What is the consequence of no longer having this stop and do I need a new one? Can I just remove the switch with no adverse effects? Please see pic below with now missing switch stop area circled in red. EDIT....19Eclipse90's explanation and link has now addressed Question 1.

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Question 2 - The old bracket holding the clevis pin had a piece of plastic protecting the clevis pin from metal to metal contact. The new one did not come with one. I tried to transfer it, but again the plastic was dry rotted and it broke. Can I let the clevis pin sit there metal on metal with no adverse effects? Maybe I should wrap some electrical tape around it? Please see pic below with questioned areas circled in orange. This question remains unanswered.

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Question 3 - A thin washer magically appeared on the ground after removing the old clutch pedal from the pedal assembly. Any idea what this goes to and if it is needed? I can only assume at this point, that it goes behind the washer to the right of it. EDIT....19Eclipse90's link to pics has addressed Question 3 and identified where this goes. (I was very surprised at where it went).....see:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/attachments/step-1-turnover-spring-jpg.58092/

Question 4 - At this point, I don't know where the bushings actually go. I can see that the smallest bushings go to the new clutch pedal assembly, but even there I am confused for now.

a) Which particular bushing does the bronze bushing replace? Is it the bushing that is furthest from the clutch pedal or the furthest? It is exclusively for the bushing that is the furthest from the pedal. Question 4a is now answered.

see: http://www.jnztuning.com/product_in...BRONZE Bushing-1G DSM & GVR4&products_id=3149

b) Where do the rest of these bushings go and what direction do they face? Where on earth do the larger bushings go?

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[19Eclipse90]

I got the impression from that thread that you have 2 options, not that you should combine them. The way that I read blessi660r's post was that just replacing the bushings would be just an ok option as opposed to a great one.

You still have two options but neither one, in my opinion, should be done without replacing the worn components. At that point, again, you can weld but it isn't required.

Ok all, I am rather confused. I did stop to take pictures, but I guess I didn't get close enough to where I needed to get them.

Once I removed the 14mm nut holding the new clutch pedal assembly, things went downhill fast.

Please keep an eye on this post as I have a few questions, but a few pics will need to be uploaded to support the questions.

19ECLIPSE90, I'll get back to your post later. I tried to respond, but it didn't save for some reason. I need help with the assembly now...thanks.

This isn't a bad reference although it somewhat dies in the middle: Any 1G Clutch Pedal Pic Requests?

**IF YOU DON'T HAVE THE ANSWERS TO EVERY QUESTION PLEASE TRY TO ANSWER SOME OF THEM**

Question 1 - There is a stop for the clutch switch that is on the old pedal assembly, but not on the new one. I guess the expectation is that you remove some of you old hardware. The stop was dry rotted. I did my best to remove it, but it broke in half. What is the consequence of no longer having this stop and do I need a new one? Can I just remove the switch with no adverse effects? Please see pic below with now missing switch stop area circled in red.

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The pedal stopper at the top of the clutch pedal (when the pedal is not pressed down) is for the cruise control circuit. Basically, without that stopper, your cruise control won't activate.

The pedal stopper at the bottom of the clutch pedal (when the pedal is pressed down) is for the starting circuit. Without that and the switch plugged in, the car will not start. If the stopper can't be replaced, unplug/remove the switch and there won't be any adverse effects.

See: Need help! for part numbers for replacements or an idea for a substitute.

 

[19Eclipse90]

See below for exploded views of the assembly. For question #2, I believe the part number is MB599879; electrical tape or anything that soft in there isn't going to help. The clevis itself ought to have a 10mm diameter; you can measure the diameter of the hole in the lever arm and, with that information, it shouldn't be too difficult to get something made if needed. This member made his own, for example: 1G clutch pedal welding / bushing how to...

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[4gfun]

A special thanks for your help! I think that I finally got it. The MB534210 bushings (2 of them are actually for the brake pedal). Torn between if not broken don't fix it or I have already gone through the hassle of pulling the pedal (which to me wasn't as bad as replacing the bushings). I know that others find it to be the opposite.