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Clutch Pedal Lost All Pressure.. Won't Disengage.

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Ryan86

20+ Year Contributor
420
2
Nov 16, 2002
Discovery Bay, California
A week prior I got a SBR 3500 installed. It was running great after it was broken in..

The other day I was driving to Mickey D's,.. When I shifted into 3rd gear, I lost all clutch pedal pressure, and the clutch would not disenegage. Driving home was interesting to say the least..

I installed a new slave cylinder, but that did not help. The mechanic said my clutch fork looked to be in good condition when he did my clutch job. Any ideas on what could be wrong?
 
Ryan86 said:
A week prior I got a SBR 3500 installed. It was running great after it was broken in..

The other day I was driving to Mickey D's,.. When I shifted into 3rd gear, I lost all clutch pedal pressure, and the clutch would not disenegage. Driving home was interesting to say the least..

I installed a new slave cylinder, but that did not help. The mechanic said my clutch fork looked to be in good condition when he did my clutch job. Any ideas on what could be wrong?

Sounds like the same exact thing that happened to me. Except mine went bad within a matter of 5-6 shifts. Hopefully somebody knows what the problem is. I can't look at my car at the moment(finals) but I hope to get working on it by next week. Any ideas? By the way, check out my post, lots of good advice from people already.
 
It always a good idea to change the fork and pivot ball when replacing the clutch, especially a heavier one such as the SBR3500, just because it looked good during the install doesn't mean it's still good now. Did you check for leaks? Are you losing fluid? Was the slave cylinder leaking when you changed it? Do you still have the rubber clutch line? Did you PROPERLY bleed the system after both the clutch and slave cylinder install?
 
oldman said:
It always a good idea to change the fork and pivot ball when replacing the clutch, especially a heavier one such as the SBR3500, just because it looked good during the install doesn't mean it's still good now. Did you check for leaks? Are you losing fluid? Was the slave cylinder leaking when you changed it? Do you still have the rubber clutch line? Did you PROPERLY bleed the system after both the clutch and slave cylinder install?

Don't see any leaks...not losing any fluid...slave cylinder was not leaking...brand new SS clutch line from RRE...system was bled by the mechanic after new clutch install, and by me after the slave cylinder install...no air in the system at all.

I knew I should have replaced the fork and pivot ball, but I was already scrounging up all my money just for a clutch and labor to finally get the car running... Is that what you think the problem may be? How would I go about checking it?

Thanks :thumb:
 
punishercb said:
Sounds like the same exact thing that happened to me. Except mine went bad within a matter of 5-6 shifts. Hopefully somebody knows what the problem is. I can't look at my car at the moment(finals) but I hope to get working on it by next week. Any ideas? By the way, check out my post, lots of good advice from people already.


Thank you :) Do you have a link to the thread?
 
Ryan86 said:
I knew I should have replaced the fork and pivot ball, but I was already scrounging up all my money just for a clutch and labor to finally get the car running... Is that what you think the problem may be? How would I go about checking it?
Did you bleed it using the hose method like described half way through this article? If not air will get back in before you can close the valve in time. As for checking fork and ball, I'm no transmission expert so the only way I know of is to remove it and check, maybe others with more experience with transmissions will chip in on that. Good luck.
 
Problem was the master cylinder. I replaced that and the car has never shifted better...


Until it broke again :mad: The clutch got extremely stiff and wouldn't disengage. I gave up and trailered it to the shop.
 
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