clutch drags and have lost pedal pressure

[ccoulter]

I recently changed my pedal assembly and it shifted great then out of nowhere the clutch started to drag again and the pedal is a lot softer and wont shift into any gears while running. We adjusted the rod and you can still push the slave in by hand. I put a new slave on it and bled it for quite some time and still nothing. The fluid in the master is pretty dark and the fluid level doesnt change when the pedal is pressed

 

[Chipper308]

Needs a new master, if the inner seal goes out whenever you press press the pedal it will just leak back torwards the reseviour and not be able to build up any pressure, have you tried pumping up your clutch, does it seem like the pedal comes back temporarily, changes are it would probably go into gear as well. I changed mine in about 15 minutes....pretty quick and easy


EDIT one other than thing, when you push the slave by hand does it feel like its got some slop? If so there's ###### an air pocket in there....it could cause your issue, open bleeder screw and push the fork/slave rod forwards driver side...hold it there. Close bleeder screw and let it go, repeat...I recently had air in there and bleeding the lines didn't get it

Did u change your pedal assembly because you clutch dragged? Off topic I'm going thru clutch drag issues right now.... did it fix the problem and why did you need to change the pedal?

 

[ccoulter]

If I pump the pedal it doesnt change. And the reason why I changed my pedals was because the bushings were completly toast. And it did fix the problem for a day or two then something went wrong once again. Lol

 

[Chipper308]

I'd put my money on a bad inner seal in your master, there's nothing else but maybe a bent/broke fork issue. But ive never had fork issues so I can't be for sure. U can buy rebuild kits for master for like 20 bucks or get a duralast(not recommended OEM is way better) from auto zone for 34 dollars

master rebuild kit - MB870511 - $36

slave rebuild kit - 2969A056 - $16

$6.00 s/h.


Check with TMZ performance. I think that's where I got these numbers from, also you ###### know...but you can trash sychros in your trans real quick like with clutch drag so I'd avoid road time hope the info helps!

 

[ccoulter]

I had replaced it last winter and autozone mysteriously lost my warranty info so I gotta spend another 50 to get a new one. Its just weird how it went from perfect to pretty much go f myself. Lol

 

[Chipper308]

Man I literally just replaced mine 2 days ago, it worked fine in the AM and I went to bleed it and as soon as I depressed the slave by hand it didn't work again.... no time at all, all it takes is that seal in there to crack or rip or whatever.... u can always pull it off and look inside it to make sure that's where your issue lies, also everyone on here will tell you don't buy the crap auto zone parts for these cars, the master in particular in this case...they are cheap and don't last. Which is probably why your forking out another 50 a year later

 

[ccoulter]

I didnt think anything of it because it didnt leak until it wouldnt shift so I checked it when I got home from work and it was only half full but since then it hasnt leaked

 

[Chipper308]

I didnt think anything of it because it didnt leak until it wouldnt shift so I checked it when I got home from work and it was only half full but since then it hasnt leaked

keep us posted, if that will fix your problem..... u know where your slave/masters leak? master leaks by the adjustment rod normally under the dhas, slave leaks under the rubber boot, if neither of thos folow the lines and make sure u dont have a line thats been jacked up. and leaking...people go years, literally years without changing hydraulic fluid bcuz its not ment to leak...so if your leaking theres an issue somwhere.

 

[ccoulter]

I went and got another master and its almost finished. Ill post results when its finished. And the seal was toast. Lol

Alright so I got everything back together with the help of my bro and we bled the system and it still wont go into gear

 

[Chipper308]

are you sure its bled all the way with no air?sounds to me like a hydraulic issue, is the master adjusted as far to the firewall as possible before the slave cant be pushed by hand? if its not a hydraulic issue the only thing that i can think of being the issue is a bent/broken clutch fork... which is that part that the slave rod pushes on....I'm not familiar with them, id look on the forums to see if the symptoms match yours

 

[TopGun8818]

I'm hoping you got an oem MC because the Duralast a.k.a. Duracrap parts usually end up causing headaches for people. I've changed my MC twice already with 155k on the odometer. I noticed it was bad on both occassions after seeing fluid leak into my carpet under the clutch pedal. It might just be the part if you didn't go oem. I know I'm bashing on them a lot but I've had a brand new duracrap alt go out on me after a few hours of operation and also got a replacement MC for my old car with the wrong thread size for my brake lines.

 

[fourgsixthree33]

I just dealt with this issue twice in the last 2 months. First time, it was the master and slave needing replaced. Second time, was the following.

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[Chipper308]

I'm hoping you got an oem MC because the Duralast a.k.a. Duracrap parts usually end up causing headaches for people. I've changed my MC twice already with 155k on the odometer. I noticed it was bad on both occassions after seeing fluid leak into my carpet under the clutch pedal. It might just be the part if you didn't go oem. I know I'm bashing on them a lot but I've had a brand new duracrap alt go out on me after a few hours of operation and also got a replacement MC for my old car with the wrong thread size for my brake lines.

Chances are seen he got 1 so fast he probably got it from autozone but I cant imagine it would be bad so soon as well as present the same problem as he is having before