Clutch pedal issue after bronze bushing install. Need help.

[EisHERE]

Well, I started the tasked of replacing my clutch pedal bushing, got everything out and the bushing put in. I then started putting things back together... Once the pedal assembly was partially bolted in, with the master cylinder attached to the pedal, I push the pedal down and it sticks. Video posted below to show what I mean. I'm really confused. If the video doesn't show you what I mean I will try to explain in words.

clutchpedal - YouTube

 

[wparks]

Hi EisHERE-

You mention installing the bushing- did you weld the shaft to cylinder actuator arm connection? (Just curious since you did not mention it.)

Starting at the floor, the clutch master cylinder (passing along force from the clutch pressure plate spring) is responsible for the first half of pedal return travel, but the second half of pedal return is provided by the stiff return spring mounted to the cylinder actuator arm at that end of the assembly. Either this spring is not installed correctly, or the spring or shaft are binding mid travel. If this assembly is working properly that spring should snap the pedal firmly back to the fully returned position. Once at that spring stops returning the pedal, you should not be able to pull the pedal up any further- being able to indicates slop between the pedal shaft and the actuator arm, which is why I asked if it were welded or not.

Hate to say it, but I would pull the pedal assembly back out and make sure on the bench that the spring is able to snap the pedal all the way back to fully returned. If not you will be better able to tell why.

(Not necessarily part of this problem, but) another important thing to check is play between the cylinder actuator arm hole and the clevis pin on the clutch master cylinder rod. From the factory this pin had a plastic bushing that took up the slack in the hole- if this bushing is left out (as it often is) the pin will be very sloppy in the hole and you will have a pedal that performs as it did before the actuator arm was welded. On mine I actually did away with the plastic bushing by enlarging the two holes in the clevis to fit a larger solid steel pin that was snug in the factory actuator arm hole so I could never forget that stupid bushing again.

-wparks (Warren)

 

[EisHERE]

Hi EisHERE-

You mention installing the bushing- did you weld the shaft to cylinder actuator arm connection? (Just curious since you did not mention it.)

Starting at the floor, the clutch master cylinder (passing along force from the clutch pressure plate spring) is responsible for the first half of pedal return travel, but the second half of pedal return is provided by the stiff return spring mounted to the cylinder actuator arm at that end of the assembly. Either this spring is not installed correctly, or the spring or shaft are binding mid travel. If this assembly is working properly that spring should snap the pedal firmly back to the fully returned position. Once at that spring stops returning the pedal, you should not be able to pull the pedal up any further- being able to indicates slop between the pedal shaft and the actuator arm, which is why I asked if it were welded or not.

Hate to say it, but I would pull the pedal assembly back out and make sure on the bench that the spring is able to snap the pedal all the way back to fully returned. If not you will be better able to tell why.

(Not necessarily part of this problem, but) another important thing to check is play between the cylinder actuator arm hole and the clevis pin on the clutch master cylinder rod. From the factory this pin had a plastic bushing that took up the slack in the hole- if this bushing is left out (as it often is) the pin will be very sloppy in the hole and you will have a pedal that performs as it did before the actuator arm was welded. On mine I actually did away with the plastic bushing by enlarging the two holes in the clevis to fit a larger solid steel pin that was snug in the factory actuator arm hole so I could never forget that stupid bushing again.

-wparks (Warren)

I did not weld it. Could I have tightened it too much? maybe my master is bad but then again it's only a few months old. I could pull it back out easily as it was just held on by a few bolts. Getting really sick of this. I never took the bushing out of the hole although, it did look a little worn. Anyhwere I can get a replacement? I'm confused as hell right now.

 

[wparks]

The fact that you did not weld your pedal assembly seems odd- The plastic bushing here:

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q744/Warren_Parks/DSM 1G Pedal Rebuild/IMG283_zpsa0518624.jpg

almost never wears out, and the most common reason this bushing is replaced with a bronze one is so you can weld the actuator arm to the shaft without the bushing melting. You probably already know the problem with this assembly is that the square end of the shaft slightly hogs out the square hole in the actuator arm- so it starts to look like this on the inside:

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q744/Warren_Parks/DSM 1G Pedal Rebuild/IMG326-1_zpsef1f74cf.jpg

This little bit of deformation allows just enough slop between the arm and the shaft to keep the actuator arm from fully disengaging the clutch and makes shifting difficult. Once this hole is hogged out you cannot tighten the nut enough to keep it from slipping- hence the weld. I used a sharp punch to hammer some indentations next to the dent to swell it out, refiled the hole for a tight fit on the shaft, tightened the nut down, then welded the arm, nut, and shaft together so they should never move again. (the nut mostly melts) Unless the new bushing had a lip that was too thick, which seems unlikely, you should not be able to over tighten the nut to the point where it causes the shaft to bind. Did the shaft seem too tight inside the bushing? I think the problem lies with the return spring- shown circled in red here:

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q744/Warren_Parks/DSM 1G Pedal Rebuild/IMG282a_zps93434110.jpg

This spring has plenty of umphwhen installed properly- once the clutch pedal is about half way up from the floor this spring should snap it the rest of the way up pretty strongly- you should test the pedal assembly on the bench to make sure this is installed correctly and the pedal is snapping up. If not either the issue is with the spring or with the shaft binding. Either way it should be easier to figure out on the bench.

I don't know of a source for a replacement plastic bushing for the rod clevis pin hole in the actuator arm shown here:

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q744/Warren_Parks/DSM 1G Pedal Rebuild/IMG328_zpsad8d2b5c.jpg

That's why I made a steel pin that fits snugly in the arm hole and enlarged the clevis holes to fit. If your original plastic bushing is intact it's probably fine- mine was missing.

-Warren (wparks)

 

[pauleyman]

That small plastic bushing is OEM. Are they discontinued?

 

[EisHERE]

It snaps back at about halfway but before that it gets stuck. I'm going to pull it out again tomorrow morning and see if I can find out if the spring is the problem or what. How can I tell if thats not or? thanks for the replys guys.

 

[EisHERE]

it snapsback at halfway, does this mean the clutch master is bad or does it just need to be bled now? all help appreciated. need to get this thing back together before spring classes start. (jan 14th)

 

[EisHERE]

need input still. sorry for triple posting.