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Clutch Pedal Bushing

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EisHERE

Proven Member
188
0
Nov 13, 2012
Eau Claire, Wisconsin
So I ordered a clutch pedal bushing from jnz tuning and I got ONE bushing, costed me $33 with shipping. does this seem right??? or should I have ordered the set for $40 without shipping from shep? I'm really confused rightnow and unsure of what to do..... is this one bushing all I need? when i push the pedal down, let it up and wait 5 seconds i can still pull up the pedal. keep in mind I have shifting issues which is assumed to be attributed to this.... Any help is much appreciated... quite confused at this point after reading through other threads.
 
It sounds like you might have more than a bushing failure going on. What type if shifting issues are you having ?
 
Thats not from a bushing. Check the boots on master/slave for fluid in them. They might be leaking.

my car was swapped from auto to manual by PO funny you mention the leaking, because there's a pretty good sized puddle under my car... brake fluid.... I basically have to double clutch it or it'll grind. ACT 2600 clutch. it grabs right away... I mean I barely even let off the clutch. Half an inch maybe
 
If it is a puddle in middle of your car then most likely the slave is bad. Tends to drip down tranny or on the crossmember. Just reach under there and see if its wet / if you can push it back in :notgood: / pull the rubber off a see if its wet.


Also with the 2600 you'llbe may need to adjust the clutch rod. Its attached to your pedal. Loosen lock nut and screw counterclockwise which should push it into the master cyl farther.
 
If it is a puddle in middle of your car then most likely the slave is bad. Tends to drip down tranny or on the crossmember. Just reach under there and see if its wet / if you can push it back in :notgood: / pull the rubber off a see if its wet.

I know the slave isn't bad, well atleast it wasn't leaking. it's actually closer to the drivers side and I think it's dripping off the firewall maybe? noticed the leak when trying to bleed the clutch. Seriously confused guys. All the help I can get is very very appreciated. I don't want my DSM sitting anymore!!! she needs to wake up! been sitting for two weeks!
 
Well did you check under the master cylinder to see if its wet? Unless there is a hole in the line the only places to leak outside near driver side will be from the master.

Either from the line or reservoir. After that its on hard line to where it connects to the flex line above tranny. Then the accumaltor, small line on bottom of it, then line to slave.

Oh almost forgot there is a flat head screw on the bottom of the master that has an o-ring. Its possible to leak from there if o-ring went bad but unlikely.
 
Well did you check under the master cylinder to see if its wet? Unless there is a hole in the line the only places to leak outside near driver side will be from the master.

Either from the line or reservoir. After that its on hard line to where it connects to the flex line above tranny. Then the accumaltor, small line on bottom of it, then line to slave.

Oh almost forgot there is a flat head screw on the bottom of the master that has an o-ring. Its possible to leak from there if o-ring went bad but unlikely.

It definitely isn't leaking on the master cylinder... I looked and there was no flathead screw on the bottom of it?? kind of confused right now :S I sure wish there was someone in my area that knew about dsm's that could help.... Maybe my clutch assembly is bad? Idk, I doubt that since it was swapped to manual, I'm sure they would've noticed that. It did seem to shift fine when I double clutched on the way home from when I bought it... (hasn't been driven since)
 
Regarding a possible leaking brake master, look at the flange of the master, where its bolted to the booster. If its leaking fluid- and almost all of them do- there will be a trail of fluid on the bottom side of the flange, and the black paint will be eaten away from the booster by the leaking brake fluid.

Regarding the clutch engagement issue, first, you need to stop driving the car before the synchros in the tranny are destroyed.
Slave check: pull the boot away from the slave and check for fluid in the boot. If fluid is present, slave is on its way out.
Master check: Get under the dash and pull the boot from the master where the adustment rod comes out of the master. If fluid is present, master is bad.

Regarding the pedal assembly, if you can push the clutch pedal to the floor, let it come back up, and then you can pull the pedal up further, then the pedal assembly is without a doubt bad, and you will never get the clutch to function properly until you fix this, especially with the ACT 2600.

The solution is to just buy new pedal assembly components, along with the bronze bushings instead of the plastic, OE bushings, rebuild the pedal assembly and weld it up before reinstalling and never have to do this again.
Personally, given the age of the vehicle, Id just go ahead and buy a new brake master, cause Im sure yours is leaking, buy new clutch master and slave, cause Im sure yours are on their way out, and either rebuild and weld your existing pedal assembly or pay Shep to do it.
It sucks, believe me I know because Ive been through all of it myself, but it has to be done...
 
Regarding a possible leaking brake master, look at the flange of the master, where its bolted to the booster. If its leaking fluid- and almost all of them do- there will be a trail of fluid on the bottom side of the flange, and the black paint will be eaten away from the booster by the leaking brake fluid.

Regarding the clutch engagement issue, first, you need to stop driving the car before the synchros in the tranny are destroyed.
Slave check: pull the boot away from the slave and check for fluid in the boot. If fluid is present, slave is on its way out.
Master check: Get under the dash and pull the boot from the master where the adustment rod comes out of the master. If fluid is present, master is bad.

Regarding the pedal assembly, if you can push the clutch pedal to the floor, let it come back up, and then you can pull the pedal up further, then the pedal assembly is without a doubt bad, and you will never get the clutch to function properly until you fix this, especially with the ACT 2600.

The solution is to just buy new pedal assembly components, along with the bronze bushings instead of the plastic, OE bushings, rebuild the pedal assembly and weld it up before reinstalling and never have to do this again.
Personally, given the age of the vehicle, Id just go ahead and buy a new brake master, cause Im sure yours is leaking, buy new clutch master and slave, cause Im sure yours are on their way out, and either rebuild and weld your existing pedal assembly or pay Shep to do it.
It sucks, believe me I know because Ive been through all of it myself, but it has to be done...

you've just told me everything I did not want to hear :\ it just seems strange that it would be bad considering it was put in less than a year ago....
 
Not that matters really but it looks like this.
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New don't mean crap. I just a "new" granted it was from a person not store but it was never used and had no signs of an attempted installation.

But anyways the snap clip for it was wrong and when i took the rubber boot off to inspect it and it all just popped out. Also the screw on the bottom was missing and it was a different thread than the screw on the old one.

Take you master cylinder of and check the seals. The rubber seals inside(you need to pull rubber back and remove clip) and if they seals are flat they are bad. If flared its good. The screw on bottom should be there as it holds the internals in.

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I agree with kchaazz. You need to fix your pedal assembly and check for possible failing hydraulic components before you continue driving the car.
The last I checked Shep didn't have any clutch pedal assemblies on hand so your options would be to send yours in or buy the kit from them.
 
I agree with kchaazz. You need to fix your pedal assembly and check for possible failing hydraulic components before you continue driving the car.
The last I checked Shep didn't have any clutch pedal assemblies on hand so your options would be to send yours in or buy the kit from them.

Car hasn't been driven for probably two weeks, maybe three. when you say hydraulic components do you mean just the master and slave? this car is turning into a headache for just this single reason -.- I hate when people half ass things.
 
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I'm unsure of the welding the pedal thing ppl talk about but I'm guessing it is this. 1g guy that knows can verify please.
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ohh no, you’ve to remove everything from the car. Then pull it apart on the bench. I just sent my core into shep and got one that was done shipped to my place. IT makes a world of difference when you get it in. I know there is more to it than just replacing the bushings. I think you have to weld a part too.
 
ohh no, you’ve to remove everything from the car. Then pull it apart on the bench. I just sent my core into shep and got one that was done shipped to my place. IT makes a world of difference when you get it in. I know there is more to it than just replacing the bushings. I think you have to weld a part too.

Did you notice if your core looked like the last two pix or was there something else there where mine is welded?
 
ohh no, you’ve to remove everything from the car. Then pull it apart on the bench. I just sent my core into shep and got one that was done shipped to my place. IT makes a world of difference when you get it in. I know there is more to it than just replacing the bushings. I think you have to weld a part too.

I thought so :ohdamn: I'm considering sending it to shep, although I might just try to do it myself to save some $$$
 
I have sent 2 pedals to sheps shop they came back worked great. If you have ruled out the master and slave are work correctly and lines are not leaking. Then yea I would look at pedal's its common on 1g clutch pedal go bad.
 
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