clutch not engaging

[99 gst spyder]

i install new clutch PP and disc. act 2600. got that all in and everything. put the slave master cylinder back on and found out there wasn't any more liquid on top reservoir. probably all leaking when i took the slave out. so i try bleeding it according to the vfaq page but wasn't sure. first time i ever did it.

this is how i did it.
i pour dot4 brake fluid in the reservoir. cover the reservoir with the cap. had a friend pump it three time but the third time i had him hold the clutch to the floor then i release the fluid in the front. not sure if that's how i'm suppose to do it. do we pump 3 time and let go of the clutch then release the fluid or the way we did it was fine. clutch wasn't hard like normal. it's alot softer.

thought we did it. after that i started the car up. starts fine. the motor has idle issue and then stall badly then died in a 8 sec range. while the car stall, i try to put it in gear but i cant. the clutch pedals seems really soft too.

 

[bobster22388]

When bleeding anything hydraulic, fill the reservoir up, push the pedal a couple of times to build up the pressure. Then, while holding the pedal down open and close the bleeder while STILL holding the pedal down. Repeat if the pedal still feels soft. I still like to gravity bleed after doing this (just open the bleeder and wait until there are no more bubbles coming out) then close it.

 

[haswesley]

Bobster has it right. Instead of pumping the peddle and then holding it down before opening the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder, you can also try opening the bleeder valve first, then pushing the peddle down quickly, then closing the bleeder valve before letting up on the peddle. Sometimes, when you pump the peddle to build up pressure, air bubbles are trapped in the line and move back and forth without finding their way to the bleeder valve and released. When you open the bleeder valve first, then press the peddle quickly, you don't give the air bubbles enough time to move back and forth in the lines. Hope this helps if pumping the peddle doesn't.

 

[Lucky13]

I found that using a speed bleeder made this job a cake walk. I spent 2 days trying every other method with no luck. With a speed bleeder you can do this by yourself in less then 10 min.

Something I also found is after you think your good, take your hand and push back the rod in the slave cylinder. I found a couple bubbles trapped in there that bleeding didn't catch.

 

[99 gst spyder]

ok i fix the idling and motor dying part.ts up fine and idles fine now. i bleed the clutch and sound about right. the clutch pedals feels regular now. during this whole entire process, i cant get it in gear when the car is on, but when the car is off it'll go into gear. i think this might be another problem.

it wouldn't go into gear so this is what i tried. turn off the car, put it to first gear with the clutch down then started up the car. something really smelly almost seems like smoking too is coming from the motor. maybe inside the tranny's bell housing.

please help.. thanks..

 

[Avionixx]

It sure sounds like the clutch isn't disengaging completely if you can't get it into gear while the car is running. If you're sure the hydraulics have been bled properly, you might want to check into adjusting the master cylinder rod:

Clutch Adjustment

 

[99 gst spyder]

It sure sounds like the clutch isn't disengaging completely if you can't get it into gear while the car is running. If you're sure the hydraulics have been bled properly, you might want to check into adjusting the master cylinder rod:

Clutch Adjustment

i'll try that, but do you think it'll let me go in gear. would it be anything related to installing the clutch incorrectly.

 

[Avionixx]

People tend to mess with that adjustment to compensate for a worn down clutch and as a result, when the clutch is replaced, it either engages right as the pedal is lifted off the floor or fails to disengage fully when the pedal is pressed (which I'm thinking is your problem).

I don't want to discount the fact that the clutch may have been installed improperly, but I would check the basics first before tearing back into it.

 

[99 gst spyder]

i adjusting the clutch according to vfaq but still the same thing. couldn't get it into gear. then while the car is on, i step on the clutch and went to reverse, kinda have to force it more, got it in but then the car jerk and died.

 

[Avionixx]

Have a buddy step on the clutch and while you go see if the slave cylinder is actually moving the clutch fork.

 

[99 gst spyder]

Have a buddy step on the clutch and while you go see if the slave cylinder is actually moving the clutch fork.

yes it does. the slave cylinder is actually moving the clutch fork.

 

[Ghostriderdsm]

is it moving it far enough? Can you move it any further?

 

[Avionixx]

Hmm, I would bleed the hydraulics again; other than that, you might have to get that tranny off the car to get a better look at what's going on.

Try gravity bleeding the clutch: put a clear hose on the bleeder valve and crack it open. Then just leave it alone and check back every 10 minutes to top up the fluid. Should be bled after 30 min or so.

 

[99 gst spyder]

yes it does move pretty far. i can try buying a new slave cylinder and bleed it again. i'll try that tonight and let you guys know.

 

[99 gst spyder]

well i change the slave master cylinder and rebled it, nothing happend. pull the rod back, and the fork seems to move very easily like there isn't any throwout bearing. would there be a chance the throwout bearing came off /loosen?

 

[Avionixx]

The throwout bearing rides on the input shaft so either it was on there when you installed it or you forgot to put it in. If it somehow fell off in the bell housing, you would have heard it by now.

 

[99 gst spyder]

ok what about the fork not on the pivot ball?

 

[Avionixx]

It's very possible; can you move the fork as if you were stirring a pot of soup? It should only move left to right, if you can somehow wiggle freely in any other direction then it's not on the pivot.

 

[99 gst spyder]

i will open the rubber piece on the fork to try and peak inside and make sure the fork is on the pivot ball.

another thing, my flywheels is stock. looked great when i pull the stock clutch out. i didn't resurface it though. what are the symptoms of that.

my act set came with dowels too. wondering what those are for and the usage.

thanks

 

[Avionixx]

I don't think the flywheel would have much to do with your issues, but definitely check on that pivot ball.

 

[Asian Beast]

I agree with avionixx, if the hydraulics seem ok then it is a disengagement problem.. what probably needs to be done is to dissamble it again... replace the throwout bearing (if you didnt already) grease the ball stud.. replace pilot bearing (pressed into crankshaft end) and resurface flywheel all of this will ensure proper operation and will make everything last much much longer!

 

[99 gst spyder]

i did put a new throw out bearing from act at the time of installation. today i open the fork rubber boot and i can see the pressure plate, fork, pivot ball and throwout bearing.everything look normal. the metal ring on the TB is still there. i had a buddy step on the clutch and it seems that the fork is pushing the TB pressing the pressure plate but i don't know how far it's suppose to push but it is pushing it though. the fork is on the pivot ball too. the fork seems to still lock on the TB.

anything else it could have been.

note: when i bolt on the pressure plate, the disc should not spin right.

 

[Avionixx]

Hmm, when I installed my 2600 I used an OEM throwout bearing; not to say the ACT bearing is the source of your problems, but I do recall it being different from the OEM bearing.

And yes, when you bolt down the pressure plate onto the flywheel, it clamps the disc down to the flywheel so it should not be able to spin. If it did spin, that's what they would call clutch slippage.

 

[99 gst spyder]

ok. anyone have use the act bearing before? can anyone think of why it's being like this?

this is what happend too. i push the slave cylinder rod all the way back right so i can move the fork, the rod will need time to push back to the fork. while saying that, my buddy push the clutch pedal in and it wouldn't come back up. he had to pull by hand then it'll fell normal the second time. is that normal?

am i bleeding it right? but the rod does push the fork pretty good.

there's two dowel pins that cam with the act clutch kit. are those suppose to be use with it too? what are those for? anyone have or know of a video for that?

 

[Avionixx]

You might want to check the hydraulics again then. When I push my slave cylinder rod in, it comes back up on its own in a matter of seconds like a teenager on a porno binge.

The dowel pins are probably for the flywheel so you can locate the pressure plate easier; your flywheel may have already had them from the previous clutch install.