clutch not engaging

[99 gst spyder]

i install new clutch PP and disc. act 2600. got that all in and everything. put the slave master cylinder back on and found out there wasn't any more liquid on top reservoir. probably all leaking when i took the slave out. so i try bleeding it according to the vfaq page but wasn't sure. first time i ever did it.

this is how i did it.
i pour dot4 brake fluid in the reservoir. cover the reservoir with the cap. had a friend pump it three time but the third time i had him hold the clutch to the floor then i release the fluid in the front. not sure if that's how i'm suppose to do it. do we pump 3 time and let go of the clutch then release the fluid or the way we did it was fine. clutch wasn't hard like normal. it's alot softer.

thought we did it. after that i started the car up. starts fine. the motor has idle issue and then stall badly then died in a 8 sec range. while the car stall, i try to put it in gear but i cant. the clutch pedals seems really soft too.

 

[newtodsm's]

I had this same problem on my 1g. I installed a centerforce clutch. after I put it in i could go into gear with the car off but not while the car was running. My problem was the the pressure plate had rubber stoppers on a few of the fingers so nothing happened to them during shipping. i bleed mine for days trying to figure out the problem. replaced the slave and master even ordered a stainless clutchline kit from stm. After I pulled the trans and removed the rubber stoppers my cluctch worked perfect. I am not saying this is your problem but I would call act and ask if they use anything to protect the pressure plate during shipping

 

[6boltpwr]

i was in the same situation as you. my car sat for awhile and when i was able to work on it. i bought a act 2600 and street disc, already had a chrome moly flywheel. put it all together and bleed the living S#@# out of the system. cltuch was all out of whack. adjustment didnt work at all, slave cylinder was good, got rid of accumalator and went to stainless line.....nothing. finally went and bought a MITSU master cylinder. works like a charm now.

do not buy a MC from an auto store they are crap. i called jacks transmission and listened to jack tell me how bad they are for an hour.

 

[99 gst spyder]

I had this same problem on my 1g. I installed a centerforce clutch. after I put it in i could go into gear with the car off but not while the car was running. My problem was the the pressure plate had rubber stoppers on a few of the fingers so nothing happened to them during shipping. i bleed mine for days trying to figure out the problem. replaced the slave and master even ordered a stainless clutchline kit from stm. After I pulled the trans and removed the rubber stoppers my cluctch worked perfect. I am not saying this is your problem but I would call act and ask if they use anything to protect the pressure plate during shipping

not sure what those are and where those are located. but i guess i can try bleeding the hydraulics and the slave cylinder. but it's pushing the rod. i don't know.

 

[99 gst spyder]

okay, today i rebled the whole system and i am pretty sure everything is correct. it still didn't want to act up. sort of grind on first gear but still wouldn't go in any gear.

i finally took out the transmission today. i looked at the pivot ball, fork, TB, and they all seem contact. the pressure plate and disc were correct. 16lbs to torque on PP. the only thing i can find is the pressure plate have bent teeth. some that goes in more then some. one of the teeth is grind up by the TB(just one). all the teeth looks like they have rust on them inside and outside.

could wrong torquing be incorrect for the teeth to not be even all the way around?

would bend/not even teeth on PP cause disengagement like my problem?

before i put it in first gear then turn on the car, i smell burnt. today i took the clutch out and there were burnt marks on the disc and back side of PP.


please help.

 

[Dert]

You can buy a rod extension for the slave off ebay for like $5, act and exedy clutches are known for making it difficult to get into gear, engaging right off the floor, and grinding during shifts, the rod extension is 1/4" longer and eliminates the problem most of the time, I had the same issues, ordered the rod and never had the problem again, there are a few other threads on here of people having same issues and was resolved by the extended rod, I searched, found enough info on people that did same thing, tried it, problem solved, best $5 you could spend on your clutch

 

[99 gst spyder]

You can buy a rod extension for the slave off ebay for like $5, act and exedy clutches are known for making it difficult to get into gear, engaging right off the floor, and grinding during shifts, the rod extension is 1/4" longer and eliminates the problem most of the time, I had the same issues, ordered the rod and never had the problem again, there are a few other threads on here of people having same issues and was resolved by the extended rod, I searched, found enough info on people that did same thing, tried it, problem solved, best $5 you could spend on your clutch

i though i might need and extended rod but now i dont. adjusted the pedal and now the slave rod is pushing the fork all the way to the bell housing of tranny. it just cant go any further.

when i torque the PP, the teeth are not all even, some were off. what can this cause>

 

[Dert]

the bent teeth could very well be your problem, you might have to buy a new pressure plate or could possibly be a problem with the TOB, you could always try the rod extension, its only $5 and you never know it may elimanate the problem

 

[99 gst spyder]

the bent teeth could very well be your problem, you might have to buy a new pressure plate or could possibly be a problem with the TOB, you could always try the rod extension, its only $5 and you never know it may elimanate the problem

the pressure plate an d disc looks bad and i don't think i'm going to be using it. i'll see if road race engineering would replace something like that.

what could cause the teeth to not be even?

 

[pj91gsx]

i'll try that, but do you think it'll let me go in gear. would it be anything related to installing the clutch incorrectly.

Yes if you put the clutch disk in backwards.

i install new clutch PP and disc. act 2600. got that all in and everything. put the slave master cylinder back on and found out there wasn't any more liquid on top reservoir. probably all leaking when i took the slave out. so i try bleeding it according to the vfaq page but wasn't sure. first time i ever did it.

this is how i did it.
i pour dot4 brake fluid in the reservoir. cover the reservoir with the cap. had a friend pump it three time but the third time i had him hold the clutch to the floor then i release the fluid in the front. not sure if that's how i'm suppose to do it. do we pump 3 time and let go of the clutch then release the fluid or the way we did it was fine. clutch wasn't hard like normal. it's alot softer.

thought we did it. after that i started the car up. starts fine. the motor has idle issue and then stall badly then died in a 8 sec range. while the car stall, i try to put it in gear but i cant. the clutch pedals seems really soft too.

When bleeding the clutch its better the leave the cap off the reservoir to let the air out.

 

[99 gst spyder]

here's some picture of the clutch disc and PP. can you see how there's rust spots on the fingers of PP.

here's some picture of the clutch disc and PP. burn on disc and PP. scratches from the throw out bearing on the fingers of the PP. let me know how are these condition.

the fingers all are not even. it's a little uneven.

anyone?

 

[Dert]

OP do you have an update? Did you manage to get everything going ok?