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Clutch Not Engaging Randomly

Posted by triggerx, Dec 29, 2012

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  1. triggerx

    triggerx Proven Member

    342
    2
    Joined Aug 15, 2009
    Gilbert, Arizona
    Lately the car has been getting harder to shift randomly, not sure why.
    The clutch was replaced awhile ago, so it may need a new one, but when it does go into gear, it seems to catch just fine, with no real lost in power.

    Im thinking my clutch fluid resevoir got too low and their may be air bubbles, any idea if this could be causing my problems? The clutch pedal itself doesnt feel mushy at all, feels like it always have. The car just seems like its not engaging at all because it wants to grind when I try shifting at idle with the clutch down
     
  2. turboglenn

    turboglenn Proven Member

    5,401
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    Joined Nov 5, 2007
    RIpley, West Virginia
    ok, just to point out you're having "dis-engagement" issues not engagement..engagement is when the clutch pedal is all the way up and the car is moving under the power of it's engine. disengagement is when the clutch won't "let go" enough to get a clean shift or get the car in gear. ( I"m not pointing this out to be an ass but to help you be able to get proper help,knowing the terminology will help you here and everywhere else you ask for car tips)


    now, it can come down to adjustment of the pedal stop and master cylidner rod on a 2g (most times is is) or if there's a little bit of air in the line, you may not feel it but it can hamper disengagement. Other things to check are fluid leaking at the master or slave (master leaks in floor of car under dash on a 2g everytime) the salve leaks into it's rubber boot at the trans/engine junction.

    I would say re-bleed the system, adjust it based on the videos from jacks transmissions and re-asses from there. If you don't know how to do either of these (and again, this is in no way to be rude or make you feel belittled) but wihtout the knowledge of learnign those two steps nothing you wil be told in this thread or in person at a shop will help you do much more than pay some one else to fix your car, in which case it only serves to help you know fi you're getting overcharged.But I feel anyone with the desire to leearn how to do these things can easily know what they're doing for the mostpart with a few searches on here and actually getting out under the car with a few wrenches and jus 'going at it"

    best of luck, check those two first, then we'll discuss scarier/pricier options, butif the clutch was worn it basically would slip unless you warped it from riding the clutch too much and heating it up. (again after the basics we can get into those possibilities)
     
  3. triggerx

    triggerx Proven Member

    342
    2
    Joined Aug 15, 2009
    Gilbert, Arizona
    Nah, I totally understand, thanks for the info.
    Ive rebuilt the head already So if its easier than that Im not too worried. Ive just never messed with any transmission related problems on this car. Except the copper bushings I made for the shifter.
    So im gonna put the car on jacks and start bleeding this thing.

    I just thought the pedal would feel off if the system needed to be bled again, but I guess not.
     
  4. wparks

    wparks Proven Member

    33
    1
    Joined Mar 19, 2012
    Fort Collins, Colorado
    Have you rebuilt the clutch pedal assembly yet? Clutch not fully disengaging on a 1G (after cylinder bleed and rod adjust) this is the first place I would go.

    If not, there's a quick test- pull on the clutch pedal- if you can pull it towards you another 1/2" to 1" beyond where it normally stops on it's own it's time to rebuild it. If you think this is the issue and/or want more information there are many discussions on this topic- too many to point you to the most useful one, but I can dig if you need.

    Good luck, -wparks (Warren)
     
  5. PieEyedPiper

    PieEyedPiper DSM Wiseman

    4,317
    43
    Joined Nov 13, 2004
    North Bay Area, California
    Just a quick response to your first post: Adjust your master cylinder rod out 1 complete turn. Then go out, with the car off, and make sure you can press the clutch fork into the slave cylinder. If it goes in you're probably golden, save for fine tuning. If the slave does not depress, you need to back off the rod a 1/4 turn, or until the slave once again depresses.

    This is general advice for a 2g, I would hope you can apply it to a '90 model. To me, it just sounds like you need more throw, adjusting the master will do that for you.
     

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    1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    manual · 2G DSM
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  6. triggerx

    triggerx Proven Member

    342
    2
    Joined Aug 15, 2009
    Gilbert, Arizona
    Thanks for the advice you guys. I rebled the system and no luck, not even a slight improvement. Everything seemed to move fine as well.

    *However, I would like to note that my father did say that the boot for the slave cylinder had a build up of fluid in it. But it just seems like its been there for a course of time. If this is the case and my slave cylinder is leaking a bit, after bleeding the system shouldn't my problem at least have been temporarily fixed?

    Seems to be holding the new fluid in there just fine tho

    The thing is, I can get the car to go into gear while the car is off. If I put the car in a gear while it is off and start it up I'm able to move it. However its like the car doesn't recognize the clutch is down. So even though its in gear, if the clutch is pressed down the car still continue to moves.
    Our suspicion after some research is that the the throw out bearing , or clutch fork may be compromised? If I end up going into the transmission I might as well replace everything I can like a New clutch kit as well. Also purchase a new master and slave cylinder. I guess I could get everything for about 600$. It's a bit pricy, but if I plan on keeping the car forever its gonna all be done at some point anyways.

    So with minimal mods like a small 16g and mbc, afpr, 3' exhaust,dejon intake, would I be ok with another stock clutch, or can anyone else recommend a clutch that's suited for my car. I definitely plan on never running more than 18lbs on that small 16g, and right now I'm just pushing out stock boost anyways
     
  7. talon314

    talon314 Proven Member

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    Joined Aug 31, 2012
    pacific, Missouri
    clutch pedal assemblys tend to go bad fairly easy if your running a heavier than stock clutch. id look into a rebuild
     

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    1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    · 1G DSM
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  8. PieEyedPiper

    PieEyedPiper DSM Wiseman

    4,317
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    Joined Nov 13, 2004
    North Bay Area, California
    At the very least, replace or rebuild the slave. If it leaked in the past you can bet it will happen in the future.

    I'd also sway you away from a stock replacement clutch.
     

    1K  0

    1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    manual · 2G DSM
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  9. triggerx

    triggerx Proven Member

    342
    2
    Joined Aug 15, 2009
    Gilbert, Arizona
    Yea, I plan on just replacing both the master and slave cylinder all together since I'm sure they'll be next to go, and I might as well if I plan on redoing this clutch.

    I'm gonna look into rebuilding the clutch pedal assembly as well, although I'd rather just do the clutch work instead since I'm due for a new clutch soon anyways. But so far, since I've had it least, I've just been running stock clutches. And its lasted quite awhile

    Also what would be a good clutch kit to get? Exedy stock replacement or Act 2100?

    The act I'm worried about ### I hear too many problems with them. Apparently there are issues that rise if it isn't shimmed or somethin. Not sure about the 2100 but that's the case for their heavier clutches I guess
     
  10. PieEyedPiper

    PieEyedPiper DSM Wiseman

    4,317
    43
    Joined Nov 13, 2004
    North Bay Area, California
    No one seems to talk about the 2100 anymore but I'm sure its still a fine piece. I'd also not worry about ACT's reputation. I've not used any of their products but I know a fair number who enjoy them.

    Purchase the clutch that best suits your goals, for all I know maybe that exedy is your ticket. ;)
     

    1K  0

    1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    manual · 2G DSM
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  11. MJcanada

    MJcanada Proven Member

    2,144
    48
    Joined Jun 25, 2011
    campabello, South Carolina
    I like my 2100 alot. Very streetable. Works great. Never had any issues out of the 24k+ I've put on it. I got it with the car i rolled. Looked fairly new so I never bought a new one. Don't regret keeping it either.

    Paul had one the held 400/350lbs without any slipping. I recommend the 2100 to anyone under that and 2600 to anyone over 400. Twin disk for anyone 650+.

    I put an oem replacement clutch kit in my girls awd and the clutch was like a dang civic. I wouldn't it for anything over stock. Also the TOB is a metal sleeve style not plastic.
     

    1K  0

    1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
    manual · 2G DSM
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