2G Clutch fork adjustments?

[athlete3344]

So im not too happy with where my clutch fork is sitting on my rebuild. Id like to try to fix it now if possible.

Car isnt running, freshly rebuilt everything except transmission but spins freely. Setup is:
South Bend Clutch DSM SS Pressure Plate Combo w/ TZ/B-Series
Competition Clutch Lightweight Flywheel
New OEM Shift Fork
New OEM TOB
New OEM Pivot Ball
Rebuild 2g master cylinder w/ kit from FIBA
Aftermarket slave cylinder

I bled the system by:
1) gravity feed
2) continued to pump clutch after gravity feed to remove additional air, probably an additional 10-15 times
3) slave cylinder trick (hold clutch in, open bleed, work slave, close bleed, release clutch), repeat 3-4 times.
4) readjusted pushrod for maximum travel until could push slave by hand. worked back and forth to get it dialed in.

See video for fork travel distance and where it sits after travel. One thing to note, I did not adjust my clutch pedal height - its at the factory height ~7.25" in line with the brake pedal. It does look like I could back out the switch a decent amount, maybe 1/2".

I do still have the OEM slave cylinder but its bound up pretty good. I could try swapping rods maybe since I never measured anything between the two.

Is there anything else I should try doing? Id like to avoid dropping the transmission if possible.

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[dwb]

Looks OK to me. What's your concern? An extended slave rod doesn't really do anything to give more travel - that's all dependent on the master.

 

[athlete3344]

Looks OK to me. What's your concern? An extended slave rod doesn't really do anything to give more travel - that's all dependent on the master.

Everything ive seen as a reference has been that its supposed to sit a bit closer to the driver's side at rest. Mines not quite centered but seems closer to center compared to what ive seen.

 

[pauleyman]

So im not too happy with where my shift fork is sitting on my rebuild. Id like to try to fix it now if possible.

Car isnt running, freshly rebuilt everything except transmission but spins freely. Setup is:
South Bend Clutch DSM SS Pressure Plate Combo w/ TZ/B-Series
Competition Clutch Lightweight Flywheel
New OEM Shift Fork
New OEM TOB
New OEM Pivot Ball
Rebuild 2g master cylinder w/ kit from FIBA
Aftermarket slave cylinder

I bled the system by:
1) gravity feed
2) continued to pump clutch after gravity feed to remove additional air, probably an additional 10-15 times
3) slave cylinder trick (hold clutch in, open bleed, work slave, close bleed, release clutch), repeat 3-4 times.
4) readjusted pushrod for maximum travel until could push slave by hand. worked back and forth to get it dialed in.

See video for fork travel distance and where it sits after travel. One thing to note, I did not adjust my clutch pedal height - its at the factory height ~7.25" in line with the brake pedal. It does look like I could back out the switch a decent amount, maybe 1/2".

I do still have the OEM slave cylinder but its bound up pretty good. I could try swapping rods maybe since I never measured anything between the two.

Is there anything else I should try doing? Id like to avoid dropping the transmission if possible.

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Fyi that's your clutch fork, not shift fork. Try this info.

Clutch basic 101: A clutch basics thread for everybody

The following statements are my opinions but they are based on 26 years of wrenching on mitsubishis and 21 of those years on DSMs. This applies to 4g63 cars only. I am not commenting on a 420a clutch although some things do apply.This is not meant to be just DSM specific but could be applied...

www.dsmtuners.com

 

[dwb]

In my experience, centered in the cutout isn't necessarily a bad thing. As the clutch wears it will relax more to the driver side. The real test will be if it drags or not.
Can you row through all the gears with the clutch pressed? I often find a gear or three won't smoothly engage if the clutch can't rotate a little.

 

[athlete3344]

Fyi that's your clutch fork, not shift fork. Try this info.

Clutch basic 101: A clutch basics thread for everybody

The following statements are my opinions but they are based on 26 years of wrenching on mitsubishis and 21 of those years on DSMs. This applies to 4g63 cars only. I am not commenting on a 420a clutch although some things do apply.This is not meant to be just DSM specific but could be applied...

www.dsmtuners.com

Gah, typos...thanks for the reference!

 

[athlete3344]

Fyi that's your clutch fork, not shift fork. Try this info.

Clutch basic 101: A clutch basics thread for everybody

The following statements are my opinions but they are based on 26 years of wrenching on mitsubishis and 21 of those years on DSMs. This applies to 4g63 cars only. I am not commenting on a 420a clutch although some things do apply.This is not meant to be just DSM specific but could be applied...

www.dsmtuners.com

Hmm, I might reach out to Tim. I saw his comments about engagement range.

 

[athlete3344]

In my experience, centered in the cutout isn't necessarily a bad thing. As the clutch wears it will relax more to the driver side. The real test will be if it drags or not.
Can you row through all the gears with the clutch pressed? I often find a gear or three won't smoothly engage if the clutch can't rotate a little.

I can get into all gears smoothly with or without the clutch depressed, but this is a fresh rebuild in progress and the motor hasn't been turned over yet.

 

[pauleyman]

Engine off doesnt mean much. Synchro don't have to do anything when nothing is moving.