Clutch engages during acceleration

[ZombieJesus]

Replaced slave and master cylinders and the clutch has maybe 10k on it. When accelerating in 2nd thru 5th the clutch will engage. My mechanic has bled the clutch 3 times so far and adjusted the master cylinder 3 times as well. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

[Oliver@Slowboy]

It should be engaged..... are you saying that its disengaging or slipping?

Oliver

 

[my dreamt dsm]

Seems like it's slipping. Im guessing your seeing rpms go up but no speed to back it up. I wouldn't recommend adjusting it as many will try to state. Just go ahead and replace it. I'm telling you this from experience!
Edit... You said it has 10k on there what kind of clutch is it and how is your driving. Do you punch it and abuse? If so it's maybe out!

 

[EuroDriver]

THIS IS A RE-POST FROM ONE OF MY OLD POST.. HOPE IT HELPS

The slave and master system for the clutch works hydrolically. The type of hydrolic fluid does affect it's operation. (higher heat) It should be the same stuff that you have in your brakes.

>The master sits inside the engine compartment next to the brake master and booster and has the reservior and clutch pedal attached to it.

You can follow the line to the slave.. if you wanted to

>>(inside)The clutch pedal is attached/held to the master by a single "bolt" and pin. The bolt can be removed and the master has a screw bracket. This can be screwed out/in. You can adjust the clutch pedal height using this.

This adjustment will affect when/how much the master cylinder engages the slave.

For example:

If you back the screw all the way out. The clutch will engage high, ensuring that you are using all of the cylinder. (slave side = nipple all the way out as far as it can go) The instant you push the pedal, it starts to engage the clutch and continues until probably about half way.. (but you still push to the bottom.. if you like, I do) This will also get rid of any play in the pedal. (my preference) << This is how I set mine

>>>HAZARD! If you go out too far.. the clutch slave stays engaged. Yes, even without the pedal. This will lead to Master and slave wear, burnt clutches, falling out of gears, and slippage with torque. BUT the trannie will be safe.

If you back the screw all the way in. The clutch will engage low, not ensuring that you are using all of the cylinder. You will push the pedal about half way or more before it starts to engage.. The pedal will have a crap load of play before it engages the clutch.

>>>HAZARD! If you go in too far.. the clutch slave won't engage enough. Yes, even with the pedal to the metal. This will lead to grinding, broken gears.. you get the picture.. The reason is because you are forcing the trannie into gear with a half ass clutch.

There is a balance there.. if you just wanna be in the middle with some play but it's difficult to find. The master and slave do wear and have to be adjusted with normal wear and tear. The service manual gives (.04-.12 in.) of pedal play.. YES, that's all you should feel before you feel the master cylinder. The play before clutch is (.24-.51 in.)

>The slave cylinder is located on the bottom and is very visible from underneath the front of the car. You'll see it's little nipple and sits next to a lever. It pushes the lever, engaging the clutch. It has a bleeder valve, like brakes. You bleed it the same way.

>>>HAZARD! If you can't adjust the pedal like I told you, then one of these are bad. I normally replace the slave, bleed and adjust. The master will be obvious.

Like I stated before, many people don't adjust this and end up tearing up transmissions. I broken shift forks in half and ate syncros in a 300ZX TT because I didn't know about the system. (same clutch system) That cost me $2,000 to rebuild. All because of stupid adjustments and cheap master/slave cylinders.

 

[ZombieJesus]

@Oliver once accelerating, its like i'm pressing the clutch in.

@my dreamt dsm this is the second master cylinder we've tried. Don't remember the brand of clutch but I drive slow and shift with the greatest of ease. What should I replace?

@EuroDriver gonna print your post and show my mechanic and see if he can figure it out.

 

[delta448]

When you push in the clutch pedal, where in the travel does the clutch disk start to actually disengage itself from contact with the flywheel?

2G DSMs have a relief valve in the clutch master cylinder. If the clutch is improperly adjusted, clutch line hydraulic pressure will not be completely released even when the pedal is all the way out. It will slowly cause the clutch to disengage, slip and burn. A burning organic clutch disk is almost always accompanied by an unmistakable horrid smell which is somewhat akin to setting a dead cat on fire.

In order to properly adjust the clutch pedal, turn the rod on the back of the pedal 1/4-1/2 of a turn at a time and adjust the upper pedal stop until you have a small amount about 1-2" of free play at the top of the pedal travel before any resistance is felt. This ensures you won't have any "2G pedal pump-up" (topic of interest is almost at the bottom of the linked page).