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Clutch engagement issue

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tkr

Probationary Member
22
0
Sep 20, 2013
Bountiful, Utah
The other day I noticed that my master cylinder was leaking so I replaced it and the slave and now my clutch doesn't engage until it's almost all the way out. I bled the hell out of it and adjusted it via the jacks transmissions video. When I first got done with the master and slave the clutch felt perfect. It engaged around half way out. But every day it seems like the engagement is getting closer and closer to the top. What could cause this?
 
Where the replacements brand new or remans? Could have a internal seal leaking. Also how many miles does the clutch have on it? Thinking it could possibly be an issues with through out bearing.
 
yea they were new parts, 1g awd talon.

did you check the clutch pedal assembly for any wear?
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the yellow arrow part usually rounds out after being so old OR heavier pressure plates but that wear will cause slop in the clutch pedal causing it to not disengage properly.

*side note did you make sure to lock the nut on the adjustment rod? :)
 

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If the engagement is changing in the way you are describing, you need to check to see if you can easily push the rod into the slave by hand. I would bet that you cannot, which means you need to bring the master rod back into the clevis just a tad. Best way is to give it a quarter turn, check the slave, do it until you can push the slave in, then tighten the nut down.
 
If the engagement is changing in the way you are describing, you need to check to see if you can easily push the rod into the slave by hand. I would bet that you cannot, which means you need to bring the master rod back into the clevis just a tad. Best way is to give it a quarter turn, check the slave, do it until you can push the slave in, then tighten the nut down.

I could adjust my rod all the way to the last thread and still push the slave rod in but I could notice it slip while driving because it was turned clockwise and I never felt pedal pump up/or inability to push slave rod in.

I have read a few things saying only the 2G clutch master cylinders have pressure relief valve in them which cause pedal pump up and unable to push the slave cylinder rod in by hand and when bleeding please follow this process - - - >

How to Bleed a Hydraulic Clutch - Team Rip Engineering
 
It isn't actually a pressure relief, if you take the guts out of the master cylinder, youll see whats really going on. Some can adjust the rod all the way out and still press the slave rod in, some cannot, but the trick is to leave a touch of free play in the master, while getting the clutch to release and engage in a comfortable place in the pedal travel and ensure the clutch does not slip due to preload, or drag due to insufficient release when pressing the pedal. I have been able to cause both pump up and slippage in my own 1G with a fresh pedal assembly, and the changing engagement point the OP is describing sounds to me that hes got the rod out too far. If the pedal assembly is bad, you should never be able to adjust your rod far enough to cause the issue he is describing, and your clutch will generally release and engage very close to the floor side of the pedal travel, but OP is stating that his clutch engagement is getting closer and closer to the top of the pedal travel.
 
It sounds like the 14mm nut on the end of the shaft for the clutch pedal assembly is either loose or the cam it holds down has worn out on the shaft...Get up under the dash and look at the slave cylinder rod and push in the clutch pedal by hand...They should both move at the exact same time, if the rod moves after the pedal has been pushed down a little then the assembly is worn out and needs to be rebuilt.

Have a look at pic I posted in the link below, its the last post.....Part #4, #14 and #17 are what you need to be looking at.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/473521-hydraulic-clutch-questions.html#post153413591
 
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