1G Clutch disengagement problem

[CvilleColin]

I have a 1990 talon tsi and the clutch won't disengage far enough for me to get it into gear without the gears grinding, the person who originally had it said it needs clutch spacers, but could it be as simple as just bleeding the slave cylinder and clutch and adjusting the clutch pedal ? I've never really heard of clutch spacers before

 

[2gNickTSi]

Try bleeding it, adjusting the master rod, etc. If all that fails then maybe new cylinders put it sounds like youre gonna need to shim the pivot ball. I had the same problem. Is your clutch fork in the middle of the opening on your trans? I believe its supposed to be just a little towards the drivers side.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

He's referring to shimming the pivot ball inside the transmission.

What you need to do is make sure you have your clutch adjusted correctly. Being a 1g, you need not be concerned with pedal pump-up issues like the 2gs do when adjusting their clutch.

Release the 12mm hex on the master cylinder adjustment rod. Now, depending on whether or not you are getting too much or too little clutch disengagement, this will dictate which direction you want to turn the rod. Turn the rod cw to increase clutch throw. Also note that you will want to make rather small adjustments. I almost never make a full revolution of the rod without tightening up the hex again and testing it.

There is also the 7000rpm test. If you can hold the clutch down in first and rev up to 7k with the clutch in, and in first gear, without the car inching forwards then you are not experiencing any significant clutch drag. If the car move - you are.
Jfyi, I don't do this test. Call me weird but I'm a little more cautious than some.

 

[Racejunkie05]

Does the pedal move freely to the floor? No binding?

 

[CvilleColin]

Yeah gotta shim it.....

 

[93AWDDSM]

Please check your pedal
Assembly for wear and then go from there.
-bleed clutch line and slave
-check the position of the clutch fork
-adjust master cylinder rod( if pedal assembly checks out ok)

 

[CvilleColin]

I checked the for and it hits the bell housing

 

[93AWDDSM]

it hits the housing when the clutch pedal is pressed? where does the fork sitting without pushing the clutch and is your clutch pedal assembly good?( to check: press the clutch pedal in, and have it come back up, if you can pull if up further your assembly is getting worn and can cause engagement problems)

 

[killercolt]

Get a 2g or mirage clutch master cylinder. Take out the rod from the 1g master cylinder and replace it with the 2g or mirage rod. The way you can get that extra adjustment to fully disengage the clutch. The 1g master cylinder rod is too short.

 

[CvilleColin]

The fork is positioned in the middle, actually maybe a little to the left just a tad, I do believe my clutch pedal assembly is good and my slave cylinder has an extended rod in it

 

[Calan]

Get a 2g or mirage clutch master cylinder. Take out the rod from the 1g master cylinder and replace it with the 2g or mirage rod. The way you can get that extra adjustment to fully disengage the clutch. The 1g master cylinder rod is too short.

He should probably determine his MC is the problem before running out and buying another one if it isn't needed.

It sounds to me like someone has shimmed or adjusted the clutch improperly, or the flywheel step height isn't correct.

OP, depending on which clutch you have and how it was installed... it could be anything from a bent fork, improper shimming/adjustment, improperly cut flywheel, master/slave/fluid issues, etc. Start with the basics and eliminate things one by one.

 

[93AWDDSM]

He should probably determine his MC is the problem before running out and buying another one if it isn't needed.

It sounds to me like someone has shimmed or adjusted the clutch improperly, or the flywheel step height isn't correct.

OP, depending on which clutch you have and how it was installed... it could be anything from a bent fork, improper shimming/adjustment, improperly cut flywheel, master/slave/fluid issues, etc. Start with the basics and eliminate things one by one.

+1 yes, good idea. not sure if he has already checked master/slave for leaking?
if those checks out, I agree with Calan about improperly shimmed(if any shim) or incorrect flywheel step height.

The fork is positioned in the middle, actually maybe a little to the left just a tad, I do believe my clutch pedal assembly is good and my slave cylinder has an extended rod in it

extended rod's are bandaid fix, get a normal slave rod in there.

- I recently had a act 2100 clutch and pressure plate, good pedal assembly and the rod was toward the driver side slightly but it would still drag and not disengage enough.( guessing it was step height on the flywheel that was incorrect, also when I pulled my pressure plate off and the disc the rivets were all loose about to pop off)

-what I did to fix: new clutch(oem), clutch fork, flywheel resurfaced and a shim behind the pivot ball.
now my clutch doesn't drag at 7300 rpm and no grinds.

 

[CvilleColin]

Jeez you guys are hopefully so quick with the responses, thanks !

 

[Chiefsublime]

So this is pretty embarrassing to admit, but I was having clutch issues in my 1G for longer than I'll admit. I tried everything swapping slave cylinder master cylinder extending the ride, obviously Justin the pedal actuation. After all this it ended up being my floor mat not letting the pedal reach the floor. I have a heavy rubber floor mat in there and it slides forward. Which prevents the pedal from full travel. So I'm just putting this out there in case anybody has the same problem. I'd say this would be the first place I would look. Because it's the easiest, but it didn't occur to me until just now. I certainly learned a lesson. . hopefully someone else can learn from this as well. So hopefully this helps.

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[luv2rallye]

Suggestion: Your clutch pedal should be adjusted to disengage long before reaching the floor anyway.