1G Clutch disengagement problem

[stevek]

This is on a 93 talon tsi AWD with the stock 7 bolt:

I am currently having problems with disengagement, my clutch grabs right off the floor. I just had my trans rebuilt at JNZ tuning and I installed an ACT 2600 with a street disc, and a Streetlite XACT lightweight flywheel.

I did not replace the pivot ball and fork, they didn't look worn at all, but now I realize that would of been a good idea.

My car has a new master cyl, slave cyl, and a welded clutch assembly. I bled the system out as much as possible and the rod cant be adjusted anymore.

The only thing I can think of is getting a OEM master cyl. I heard that the autozone ones do not have enough movement.

I was also told that the extended slave rod is a band aid for a bigger problem, and I agree with that.

Any input on what I should do next will greatly be appreciated.

 

[Defiant]

The only thing I can think of is getting a OEM master cyl. I heard that the autozone ones do not have enough movement.

Malarkey. They're the same spec as OEM. You may need to disassemble, and shim the pivot.

 

[stevek]

Thanks. When I had the trans out I saw that the pivot was already shimmed with 1 washer. So I'm going to get a new slave and master with OEM specs, if that doesn't work should I put another washer behind the pivot ball, or buy a new ball and fork?

Thanks again

 

[Ben]

similar problems over here. don't know what to try though.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/303599-clutch-dragging-hi-rev.html

I bet your clutch is dragging too. put it in 1st gear, e brake not engauged, and rev to 7,000-7,500. If the car starts to move before about 7200 your clutch is dragging.

 

[stevek]

I will be trying this ASAP. Thanks for the link.

 

[clockworktoy]

I had the same problem with all new master/slave cylinders, SS clutch line, fork and ball on my 2600. For some reason i still had to shim the pivot ball even with everything being new, such a PIA.

 

[stevek]

My pivot ball is already shimmed. The way the fork sits now, if I put another washer in there I think it wouldn't be necessary. The fork is already near the driver side of the opening. I am lost here, I'm going to try a different method of bleeding and if that doesn't help I'll get a new OEM master and slave.

 

[disciplekyst]

I had the same exact problem and was tired trying to fix it, so the following is what I did, no jokes: I cut the floormat under the clutch pedal, shaped the firewall with a hammer so It would let the pedal go further, and grinded the metal stopper that was also in the pedal's way.... Sounds ridiculous but i worked and now my clutch disengages 1 inch from the firewall

Just ask If you want more details

Louis

 

[turbo_punk]

Are you adjusting both rods on the clutch pedal because most people don't and only do the one going into the firewall.

 

[stevek]

I am only adjusting the one going into the clutch master cylinder. Where is the other adjustment???


disciplekyst- That does sound crazy, but hey whatever works. I am going to try other ways first.

 

[disciplekyst]

Well it may sound crazy but when you really think about it, you're just allowing the rod in the mastercylinder to go further, which is what you want.

If I were you I would actually try that first, and if for whatever reason you go to far and the rod touches the end of the master, just put some floormat back under the pedal to solve the problem.

It's damn cheap (0$), takes no time at all, works, what else would you want...
But hey, it's your car

Louis

 

[stevek]

That is true although after reading the post from Jack's Transmissions on the clutch dragging thread, I'm going to go that route first.

Thanks for all the input.

Well I did the rev test and my clutch starts to grab around 6,800. I plan on getting an OEM master and slave to start out. I was having trouble with shifting into 3rd the worst. I adjusted everything I could with the shift cables and eventually (after adjusting the bracket that's bolted to the trans many times) 3rd gear goes in a lot smoother, but the rest of the gears aren't as smooth as before. So I guess this is going to be the happy medium.

In addition to that, is it alright to continue breaking in my clutch If I can get through gears without trouble (even with the clutch engaging around one inch off the floor)?

 

[MilTowns Finest]

hey ok i just got brand new clutch master clutch slave and oem clutch kit all this was purchased through o'reilly's auto store. (just blew the clutch and didnt have money for anything else so bear with me) i got it done at a local shop and when i got it back the pedal felt like complete crap. when depressing the pedal there is no resistance until about 60-70% of the way down and then it starts releasing but it doesn't release all the way as i can hear it catching through every gear. and first and second is grinding worse and more than ever. the only thing i can think of is that they didnt bleed it right. so im having them bleed it more today but if its not that then what else can it be?

-92 laser fwd non turbo 2.0 4g63 6-bolt