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Clutch disengagement no longer smooth

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red_devil

20+ Year Contributor
1,384
102
Jul 13, 2005
Richmond, Virginia
ACT 2600 with street disc
New oem TOB
ACT streetlite-correct step
New oem slave
New fork and pivot ball with one shim- fork sits towards the dr side
locktite was used on all bolts and torqued to spec
Small amount of grease was put on the TOB and output shaft
Bled many times
Slave rod adjusted


The clutch has been in for about 5k miles and was working just fine until now. It still shifts fine and always goes in gear; the problem is that it is no longer smooth when you let the clutch out. I hear a popping sound every time I shift, it kind of feels like when you let the clutch out to fast and you get a slight jerk. Well it does this all the time no matter how smooth I try to shift.

One issue I have found is that I cannot get the adjustment rod to set perfectly. No matter which way I turn it, I cannot push the slave rod more than a 1/8”.
 
The crappy thing with tranny issues is that if it's not the hydraulic system you almost always have to pull the trans and check it out.

One thing you could check first though is to make sure all the trans to engine bolts are there and tightened down.


Oh and if you're only pushing the slave rod 1/8" then it would seem that your tob has been putting way too much pressure on the PP. I don't see how a properly installed/adjusted clutch system could disengage with only 1/8" slave cylinder throw.
 
The crappy thing with tranny issues is that if it's not the hydraulic system you almost always have to pull the trans and check it out.

One thing you could check first though is to make sure all the trans to engine bolts are there and tightened down.


Oh and if you're only pushing the slave rod 1/8" then it would seem that your tob has been putting way too much pressure on the PP. I don't see how a properly installed/adjusted clutch system could disengage with only 1/8" slave cylinder throw.

I will check all the bolts when I get home thanks

What I meant was that I can only push the slave rod back 1/8" ( as in towards the drivers side checking to see if the self adjuster valve isnt closed).

up date

I re adjusted the clutch and now the bleeder valve is fully open as I can push the slave all the way back in. Im still getting clutch engagment low to the floor, but it isnt dragging at 6500rpm(cannot go higher due to dsmchip) It seems to shift a little better but still sightly there.

Also I looked at my old slave cylinder and I noticed that the new oem one I bought from extremepsi has a slightly longer rod than the oringinal one. Its only about 3/16" longer and the old one has some wear but not much. Were there different sizes on different years???
 
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