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Clutch disengagement issues!!!!

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d_rock10030

10+ Year Contributor
47
1
Aug 15, 2009
Wyoming, Michigan
So here is what i've done. (95 gsx)

Brand new act 2100 and light weight fly. I replaced the slave cylinder (It was leaking at a seal). I properly bleed the clutch with a friend. There wasnt any air in the lines at all. The fluid level is on the money.

Here's my issue.
After bleeeding the slave out with no air in the system the clutch engagement (You can feel it) is almost all the way to the floor. Its sloppy peddal (just enough pressure to return when pressed down) all the way through then it gets really stiff right near the floor and thats when you can feel the clutch engage. So I was thinking that there might still be air in the line... wrong!!!! It goes through the gears fine when its not started but when its running it will only go in when I am mashing the pedal to the floor and even then you cant drive it because when you try to ease the pedal out it just pops and stalls.

Am I looking at a master issue? Maybe a rebuild of the master?
 
The pedal assembly is okay. And I don't have the stainless line but I don't have time to wait and get it just to fix it. LOL time is money and shop space. :) I've done all the work myself. And berthing seems to be in perfect order. I just don't understand what the hell has happened. :( uggghh.
 
Keep in mind the clutch pedal itself needs a half of inch of freeplay at the top of its release. And that may have nothing to do with it. Lol but I'm running out of ideas too. You did ask for an explanation though, and I'm sorry I can't provide that. I had similar clutch issues back in october-november.

But I'm almost positive that that shouldn't be there... The shim, if everything is new. I'm sorry if youve already tried bleeding and having enough fluid in the chamber as to not letting it get empty before you refill?

If nothing them I'm as stumped as you :/

Is your kit matching? Mixmatching disks pp and such and tob can often create that difference too.
 
Haha thanks for the info. I agree I think the shim shouldn't have to be there but looks like that it has to be there. And yeah I'm stumped. It just makes no sense. Guess ill have to just try shimming the pivot ball and bleeding the cluclutch again.

And yes the clutch and p.p are the same brand. ;)
 
Well shimmed my pivot ball with a 1/4 inch spacer. And now magically my clutch is fixed. I don't know who says it is a bad idea. Cause I have literally all new parts even down to the clutch fork. And I still had to shimmer the pivot ball that 1/4 of an inch. That's for the helpful info. :)
 
Well shimmed my pivot ball with a 1/4 inch spacer. And now magically my clutch is fixed. I don't know who says it is a bad idea. Cause I have literally all new parts even down to the clutch fork. And I still had to shimmer the pivot ball that 1/4 of an inch. That's for the helpful info. :)

New is still supposed to be shimmed......
 
I'm sure there HAS to be something not being replaced that warrants a shim...maybe. This will bother me until I figure it out, what is sleep?

I have to say I'm baffled as to why I had to shim mine on my car. It has a brand new clutch, p.p, t.o.b, clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, new clutch fork and pivot ball. And for what ever reason I had to shim a 1/4 inch on the pivot ball. But what I don't get is why. Is it necessary to shim now? If the factory pivot ball didn't have to be shimmed from the factory? Or didn't have a shim on it. ;)

Also I don't know what sleep is I just spent 16 hrs pulling my trans twice. And put it in twice. Blood sweat and tears are worth hearing that Turbo spooling all day.. ;)
 
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Lmao its not hard at all with a huge fmic on the front. :) but emotionally its Horid on the eye. But I hit a dog and messed up my front bumper and my old fmic.that's why I had the front off. And my new front bumper is blue. :/ I need a paint job bad. Imma paint the front black until then.
 
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